New Max owner. Please Help

[brushcutter]

Robinson, the secondary has a snapring that holds the 2 halves together. These are situated so that the individual halves of the driven clutch can open/close which allows the clutch to change its gearing, hence the name cvt. If the sheave halves are broken loose from their sleeve or hub then you will need a new clutch. If they are bent badly, you will probably need a new clutch, but most likely you will find that the inner workings such as the bore where it slides onto the tranny is wallowed out. Or the sleeves that are attached to the sheaves are worn and have enough slack to allow a wobble, or...

Before you give up on it, anchor it down so that it doesn't fall on your foot, take hold of it and see if you can find out what is causing it to wobble, it could be an easy fix, such as a loose bolt, or worn keyway/key.

[robinson01]

Thanks Kabruta. I ended up taking the t-20 out. It was easier then it looked. I bit of time but not to bad. Now that its out i think I may replace the entire secondary. It is lookig pretty tired. Any idea where is the best place to get a replacement and what type? So here is where I am at. The engine is out and gone to the shop. The tranny and clutch are out. I think this thing has never been taken apart befor. I bought new chains for the entire unit. Can anyone make some suggestions as to what else I should do while its apart.

[Kabruta]

No, I was lucky mine slid off. You might have remove your t-20 to take off the clutch, pending how hard it is stuck on. I believe there is a tool you can buy or make to help with seized clutches. Good luck

[robinson01]

Kabruta, did you have to remove the entire t-20 to replace the sleeve.
Brushcutter, the sleeves are straight. What does that mean?
I am very lost when it comes to the secondary clutch. I have done a lot of searches on this site but if i have missed a section feel free to point me in the correct direction.
Thanks guys.

[AussieMax]

If it's HDPE I just go to a plastic fabricator/moulder and they plastic weld it nice and neat.

[brushcutter]

I used a gas soldering iron and melted/fused the plastic together. I have read on this forum where someone used a clothing iron to do the same!

[Mike]

If you will use the search here on the site you will find some good information on what you will want to do.

Here's a great how-to by evil8x8: http://www.6x6world.com/forums/gener...dy-repair.html

And another: http://www.6x6world.com/forums/gener...estions-2.html

[robinson01]

Thanks so much for your help. I am starting to wrap my head around this stuff. Is a plastic weld a difficult job. The 5 gallon bucket idea seems like a good option. Do you just cut peices and heat it up so it drips on the cleaned area? Cheers

[Mike]

Cool. I will replace the chains. They are a #50 chain as far as I know.
Just to verify. The chains should have about 1/2 slack in it. The chain from the rear wheel to the middle seems to have very little clearance from the body on the bottom. Do the usually run that close to the bottom?

You want about 1/4" of slack (1/8" up and 1/8" down) in your chains. The chains do run close to the bottom of the tub. Worst case, if you slide over an object the chains will rub the tub a little but it doesn't hurt anything.

[robinson01]

Cool. I will replace the chains. They are a #50 chain as far as I know.
Just to verify. The chains should have about 1/2 slack in it. The chain from the rear wheel to the middle seems to have very little clearance from the body on the bottom. Do the usually run that close to the bottom?

[micmac]

You can use the black plastic from a bucket made of HDPE. I assume you are patching holes in the lower tub?

[Mike]

For #2, You don't need new tensioners. Instead, like brushcutter said, just replace your worn out chain. If you take a link out you will ruin your sprockets. Once the adjustment is gone it's time (or past time) to replace them.

[robinson01]

Thanks for your help. I never expected such a fast response. The sleeve on the clutch seems to be the issue as far as i can tell the shaft is still straight. Thank you for the contact numbers i will be calling them in short order. And thanks for the vote of confidence. I wasnt feeling the vibe this week. Cheers.

[brushcutter]

Welcome to the forums Robinson.

1 - Does your clutch have slack in it(in the sleeve/shaft)-or is the sheave halves bent?

2 - With a machine that old you may want to replace the chains altogether and also closely inspect your sprockets for wear.

3 - The t-20 uses automatic transmission fluid 1 quart Most of us put 28ozs atf and add to that 4 ozs GM limited slip additive.

4 - If you can get some pieces of plastic from your tub( I trimmed some excess from the outer edges of my Hustler tub) you could try welding it.

That's my nickels worth, but there is a host of great guys and girls on this forum that will have more help (and more experience) on this stuff so give them a little time and they will get on this for you.

[Kabruta]

Welcome to the forum.
I had the same problem with my secondary clutch. You can just buy the one side with the woodruf key from Recreative industries.1-800-255-2511. I believe it was approx 120.00 bucks.

How are your chain tentioners? I upgraded the ratchet kind to Richards relics roller tentioners, and i have had good luck with them. 812-944-1643. This might not be the best way but what I do is raise one side of your max and I tighten the tentioner so that there is approx 1/2 inch of tention.

I cant help you with your holes. I think I read somewhere some people use goop. Check out the how to articles in this forum.

Remember once you get your max up and running, you will love it.. I started the same way you are.

Another good thing is all the people in this forum are more then willing to help you.
Good luck