Can someone look at their maxiV and tell me if the adjuster sprocket is in the right hole on that flat bar?? there is that second hole towards the rear that would lower the sprocket and maybe have a better angle on the chain? is my chain routing correct on the tranny, 34 tooth sprocket, and adjuster? anyone got any pictures?
You are set up correctly. I thought I had a picture of my Max IV but couldn't find one that showed the rear idlers. This picture is from Max's website:
I decided to split the shifter since I was in there! and I want to soap the floor and spin donuts till I throw up!
guessed at the angle.
3/4" all thread fits real nice inside the tubing.
I am definitely going to change some stuff up, the steering rods need to be shimmed outward and Im going to have to shim the shifters inward.. I have a plan for tomorrow..
Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways , cigar in one hand, whiskey in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO-HOO, what a ride!!!"
errmm finished the controls, tightened everything up and saw the clutch lying on the bench... tried to make it fit, its really tight.. do i have to pull the tranny and the primary chains to get it on? or someone know a secret?
i noticed ur flanges look just like mine on my max II of course but when u grease ur bearing does it run out the back flange or out of the bearing seals
I noticed some squirting out from between the flanges at first. I put the vice grips on the inner flanges clamped real tight, and it squirted in.. Im sure when it starts to grime up it will seal. I should have put a small ring of the strip caulk all the way around the flanges.. I may still do that.
All bearing inserts and flanges are a pain. They will work as they should, but only if the bearing is positioned just right. I have found that, while assembling the flanges, if you put the bearing on the outer flange and tap it into the flange with a rubber mallet, that will help to "set" it. Before you do so, you have to make sure that the bearing is completely centered and even in the flanges. Then you can put the bearing and outer flange up against the inner flange and assemble as you normally would. That will help a lot with making sure that the grease is actually getting to the bearing itself and not just squirting back out the flanges.
bolt run through nut, is to keep it straight in the tubing.
welded up a bolt to a piece of flat bar. threads into end of lateral for controls.
moved the springs to the middle, between the eye bolts and flat bar.. Ran a bolt through the controls for the laterals flat bar is on outside of T-20 controls to increase the space between moving components.
Closeup.
It is sure tight in there..
Front end of laterals to control levers..
Made my own yokes out of flat bar bent and welded to a bolt same as laterals.
welded gussets and fixed cracks on engine stand.. painted.
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