Bearing Change

[Eldon]

I'm finally getting up enough courage to tackle a bearing change.There certainly are a good number of threads with some great material here on the forum.My Max II has bearing cages and of course solid axles.While I haven't found a lot of specific material regarding change with bearing extensions I am assuming just a third more of the same.Specifically I haven't as yet found material on details of removing the brake assembly on the front axles.
My reason for changing the bearings is it takes on an excessive amount of water and occasionally I hear a snapping sound coming from the front left wheel.When filled with water it leaks excessively around all axles though some more than others.The machine has 240 hours with nearly 100 of them with tracks.None of the recommended bearing checks reveal a problem(play in the wheel/axles).I maintain that the up and down play is much harder to determine unless both outer bearings are worn.
A bearing change looks like a gargantuan task to me but the material here gives me some hope also I would like to be able to do it with a degree of comfort.If I can do a bearing change and have the acquaintance of a good T-20 man,I think I could keep it running indefinitely.
Any tips further to the threads would be appreciated.

[Mike]

With the third bearing, you will probably have a harder time feeling the worn bearings since the two outer ones are so close together. Definitely read through the bearing replacement article: Max II 6x6 Bearing Replacement For the brake assembly, you can just remove the front and rear bolts that hold the assembly in place and then pull it straight up. It will still be attached to the cable that runs between the left and right side, but you will have enough slack that you can just flop it in front of the frame, out of your way. It will be pretty self explanatory once you get in there.

I am in the process of changing all of mine again and took the time to create a video of the process. I got all the axles back in tonight and will start on the chain tomorrow. It will probably be several weeks before I have the time to edit the video, but I hope to get it online sometime in January.

[Eldon]

Mike I was afraid I was going to get no replies to my thread,you always come through.I plan on going at this project slow and steady.I have read through your article here thoroughly and it is priceless.While I don't have excessive hours on it over 200 were put on by me in two years,its first 34 hours were over a five year period with I suspect no maintenance.Just like a car wear is a product of usage x time. I have the info on bearings from Buffalo Bearings.What brand and number did you use? My 2003 takes a 72 mm as per the information here.Your video project will be priceless. Thanks Mike.

[Eldon]

Mike I went through the 45 pages of Max threads to glean everything I could about bearing changes as well of course your article.A lot of information.My Max has the 72 mm bearings,are you changing the bearings on your red Max II? I can't recall whether your Max II has 62mm or 72mm . Why I ask is I'm curious to the number on your bearings.There seems to be a recurring theme of "HC206-20" (62 mm) and "HC207-20" (72 mm). That said I plan to buy from either RI or highly recommended here ,Buffalo bearings.I suspect Buffalo to be the supplier to RI.I need 18 bearings so will definitely have the old ones out before ordering.I would just like to do a little "armchair " research first.

[thebuggyman1]

Buffalo gave me a significant discount for buying in quantities over 10. ( 2 machines) It might be worth it to have spares.

[Mike]

The numbers are standard numbers that represent that size bearing. It's like going to buy tires and asking for a 275/55R20. The number isn't specific to one manufacturer. All brands that are 72mm with 1-1/4" bore will be called HC207-20 All 207 bearings are 72mm. The -20, I believe is the inner bore size in 1/16" increments. So, 20/16 = 1-1/4". A 1" bore would be a -16. I think the HC stands for hybrid corrosive-resistant but don't quote me on that. Maybe someone more versed in bearing nomenclature can chime in?

The only difference I have seen in bearing nomenclature between manufactures is with the triple seal designation. I have seen some manufactures designate a triple seal bearing with "-TRL" at the end and others use "-R3"

My max (now it has a blue body) uses the 72mm bearings.

[Eldon]

Thanks Mike and Buggyman for the information.I'm going to get some local quotes and quality queries.I believe the locking collars can be purchased as well.I'm going to "roll up my sleeves" sometime this week.

[Eldon]

I got a local price today for HC207-20 (the wholesaler understood the r3/trl designation) triple seal bearings at $10.68 apiece.It sounded low to me and I said so,he light heartedly offered to charge more.I inquired about higher quality and he said bearings were made to pretty much the same spec.The manufacturer was KML . Does anyone here know the make RI uses and Mike what make of bearings did you install? He indicated the locking collar comes with them.I have read complaints here on the forum about some bearings so I remain a bit skeptical about all bearings being created equal.I want good ones.

[thebuggyman1]

KML is a major manufacturer. I don't know if you are comparing apples to apples etc, but the price was right and you won't pay shipping if it's local.

[Mike]

The factory uses Peer brand bearings. They are a chinese made bearing but seem to be a higher quality. I have never had a problem with them but they are very expensive.

I believe several members have had problems with the locking collars breaking off of the cheaper chinese bearings but I do not know which brands. I think member hydromike was one of the ones that had that happen. It was posted somewhere here on the site.

I ended up going with PTI brand bearings and chain this time around. They are headquartered in Charlotte, NC and manufactured in Germany I believe. I have never used them so I can't comment on their quality. I thought I would give them a shot though.

[hydromike]

The bearings that I had an issue with were Peer brand, but these were small, 1" diameter bearings. They were middle of the road in price. The Max VIII came with all Peer bearings as the inners. I have two Peer outers, and I ordered their "equivalents" on line from thebigbearingstore.com. I THOUGHT they were shipping me Peers, but instead sent me KMLs. At $11 a piece, I won't complain until they're field tested.

I have to go back down to RI tomorrow, and I'm sure they'll give me some Peer units for the last couple bearings I'm lacking. I've had a lot of luck with the Timken-Fafnir units for a lot of machines, but they really go up in cost quickly. The only issue I've had with the Peer units on Big 5 were the locking collars. Lots and lots of time in the water, mud, ice and the bearings themselves held up well. I don't think they're a bad brand by any stretch. RI wouldn't be putting them on machines unless they're a proven quantity.

~m

[bierbower37]

I put KMLs in my max II when I replaced bearings this summer. They have held up really well thus far with probably 60 hard hours on them in swamp and now lovely snow and ice. Can't beat the price, but I'll keep my eye on them and see how long they last with proper care and let you guys know.

[Eldon]

This is all great information folks.This guy I am dealing with is a pretty straight shooter.At work I buy bearings from him for electric motors,have for years.He is actually a bearing distributor.I think if he thought I would be better off with more expensive bearings he would take the extra money.I wish bearings were rated good,bad and ugly for simplicity.He doesn't stock them and I won't order until I show him a bearing.My experience with automotive is one guy swears by a certain brand and the next guy swears at it.He is in the know enough to know right off roughly what I was doing with them.He might be extending me wholesale price and a discount on the 18.He also deals in bulk o-ring chain etc.A low overhead operation with the best prices in my region.

[Mike]

Thanks for the clarification hydromike! Sorry to mislead anyone, I thought the cheaper Chinese bearings were the ones having problems. I didn't realize it was the Peer bearings.

[hydromike]

No, I think my Peers WERE made in China.... I didn't want to make the direct connection that Chinese products are always junk. Not always the case. My HC207-20 units for the Max VIII are KMLs, and don't have any markings on them whatsoever. I don't necessarily like the appearance of the outer seals, but they could be great. I'll give them a run, and see what comes of the abuse.

~m