Bearing Change

[Mike]

Mike, you are correct. The Peer bearings are made in China. I was saying before (wrongly) that the cheaper Chinese bearings were the ones with problems. I didn't realize it was the Peer bearings, what I think of as more of a quality Chinese bearing.

[Eldon]

As Hydromike has indicated a lot of quality stuff is coming from China now.We don't like to admit it but much of it is made by North American companies that have relocated their factories there and are manufacturing using tried and proven methods.Over the years,not everything manufactured here was a smashing success either.With the great exception of amphibians,of course.

[turvuren]

It is important to have perfectly straight axles with your cage setup. You can check at the point when you are just snug on reassembly to see if your cages wobble when you turn the axle. I just did a few on my Buffalo and found that the axles I bought had a bit of wobble and I chose to leave the cages off. You need them on since you are running tracks. If you make any you definitely should pay extra for the closer tolerance material. I'm assuming that a bearing will wear much faster if the axle isn't nice and straight.

[Eldon]

Well I finally got up enough courage to start the bearing change.I am having a hard time.I'm on my first axle(front right),stripped the allen screw for the brake disc and had to drill it out but I think a machine shop can save the disc.The eccentric locking collars are a puzzle.Absolutely no way of knowing which way they turn.Got the outermost off with a punch in an air chisel but the other two don't seem to turn no matter which way.Should the locking collars be so tough or am I missing something?

[Eldon]

News Flash: I figured out the locking collars.I didn't realize that they didn't really screw out like a nut but rather simply unlock and then it slides back away from the bearing.Everything is free now and I am preparing to try to pull the axle.Just now I'm in the school of hard knocks but I am anxious to conquer bearing installation as well as have the benefit of new bearings installed.

[Eldon]

Got my axle out but had to pull with cage still on with outer two bearings still in place they won't budge.I am going to borrow a bearing puller to pull the middle one but to get the one out by the wheel will have to send it to a machine shop if its seized on like the middle one.I believe this is going to be a gargantuan task as the third bearing increases the difficulty even getting at the outer two but the high side is.....the bearings are shot.......light grinding when turning by hand though no play.I was surprised that the inner bearing is smaller I believe it is the 62 mm.

[bierbower37]

You're correct 72 outter and 62 inner for the bearings. part number for outside is HC207-20 and inner is SA206-20.

[wfo]

go to the GOLIATH thread and look through it and you will find where
i made a spacer to run a larger 72 mm on the inboard side..i did it on my
old max iv also and its much better....

[Eldon]

Well I'm up to my armpits in my bearing change,progress is at a snail's pace.I seem to have resolved most issues other than the locking collars.I have pulled two axles but I have one stubborn collar that just will not rotate no matter what.Liberal penetrating fluid set screw out tries punch with large hammer,tried both ways to no avail.I even have an air chisel with a punch in it,I'm stuck.Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[nairb35]

I would take a break for a couple of days go work on the axles. what ever it takes to soak that collar in penatrating oil(i use PB-blaster)but let it set for a day or two everytime you are near it spray it again.I have found (for me) this does two things it lets the oil do it's job and the best parts about it is it calms my butt down. Then when that does not work cut it off. Try the first idea first though.

[Eldon]

LOL...sound advice.I finally got it but it was brutal.The penetrating fluid coupled with patience will win the race.LOL I have lots of penetrating fluid.

[Eldon]

I'm doing OK so far on my bearing project.Got all axles out and I am starting a clean up to ready for re-installation.I have a couple of bearings (outermost of the three) that won't come off in part because it is too close to the wheel to get a good crack at with a brass drift.How much heat can the axle stand as I think the bearing will have to be cut off or heated?

[Mike]

Just cut it off. If you are using a cut-off wheel, cut the outer race off. Then the bearings and cage will be easy to remove, leaving only the inner race on the axle. Cut it carefully with the cut-off wheel so that you don't cut into the axle. You may have to cut it twice, 180 degrees from each other, but once you have the two cuts, you can usually take a chisel and hammer and just pop the race off. I made it sound more complicated than it is. Really, it won't take much cutting to get it loose.

[Guy]

Wear safety glasses/goggles when using a cutoff wheel, I got a bit of metal in my eye that promptly rusted doing a MaxII bearing change, and had to be drilled out, like this: « Rust Ring on Cornea (Photo) RootAtlas

[Eldon]

Followed your advice each, Mike and Guy.Worked like a charm.Eye protection is crucial when using hammers,punches,chisels or grinders.A good working Max is no good without eyes to drive it.Thanks Boys.