inner bearings are a must upgrade,cant believe they came stock with bushings,very poor design.since i'm planning on running full and half tracks,full tracks requiring 5" wheel extentions to clear seat recesses in tub i'm upgrading my outer flange units with 6" extended double bearing housings on all six axles since half track will stress middle axle also,zerk between 2 bearings to pack with grease to stop water and lube bearings from inside.flanged extended housing i'm fabricating but is a one time deal since i can reuse and simply replace bearings.front and rear will have extended plates for plow mounts, push plow up front and pull plow in rear,mounts will also be used for other attachments,front push bar/skid plate and rear dirt bike carrier for my son incase of water crossings or if he gets tired and want to ride with me.
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How-To Article: Max II Axle and Bearing Replacement
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Argh!
Just spent a few hrs last night trying to install one of my axles/flange in the rear (where there's alot of weight w/ the engine but not much space). Any tips on lining up the 3 flange holes on the frame w/ the 3 holes on the body on a max II? I tried using a pry bar between the body and the frame not much luck. A 2nd person helping might work but, I'm alone on this one.
I'll try to think of something and make another go tonight.
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Try using an aligment tool (punch) to get one lined up and try to get a bolt in one of the other holes. I've also wedged a piece of wood between the frame and the body to help line them up. Another thought is to grab the frame with an overhead hoist or come-along and lift the frame inside the body.
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I actually had a smaller diameter bolt in at 2 different points (not at the same time) and had a screwdriver in the second hole - 3rd still wouldn't line up. the puches may have a better choice of diameters - I'll try those when I get home. It's almost more of a left-right issue than up-down.
The previous owner redrilled the front axle flange holes on that side (a littl bit off center). I tried to use what I thought were the original holes - maybe that's twisting the body a little bit. the middle axle has not been out yet (next chore).
One day I'll have a garage - big and full of tools.
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Originally posted by liflod View PostTry using an aligment tool (punch) to get one lined up and try to get a bolt in one of the other holes. I've also wedged a piece of wood between the frame and the body to help line them up. Another thought is to grab the frame with an overhead hoist or come-along and lift the frame inside the body.
Lance, I owe you a beer for that - the punches were the perfect diameter to line up the holes (even then, they didn't go in too smoothly but, went in). Had to use two punches in 2 holes.
After that.... I spent about an hour learning how to get the right side jack shaft out of the machine...GEEEZ - 2 of the most stubborn cotter pins ever. Hopefully my bushings are still within spec on those - I thought that side was loose from a worn bushing but,after getting it apart, the only thing that was moving was the shaft the sprocket rides on in the holders (which don't have bushings). I am definately going to install a zert fitting on that sprocket (the other side has one but, not this side).
Whipper - when do are you coming out with a max II jack shaft bypass kit???
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