How to keep tracks on

[srg121]

you can get ice cleats for plastic track.the tracks richard clark sells look like they have a deeper tread design than the argo tracks,anyone have any experiance with his tracks??? rubber slides on ice too,the day i got my sidewinder there was an icy crust on about 3" of snow,went up a trail in my woods and as soon as i started down a slight incline i started sliding,slowly slide about 30 feet w/ the sticks back till i gently bumped a tree

[mudbug3]

I do not know the year of MaxII. It has round lights so it is older.
I added a picture of my engine compartment, think you will get a kick out of it.
Moike

Where is the radiator for that 3-cylinder motor you have installed in your Max II ?

[Beeman]

Where is the radiator for that 3-cylinder motor you have installed in your Max II ?

You can see the rad fan in the back there... rad would probably be right behind it :P Venting on the other hand would be interesting to see.. I mounted mine outside of the tub on the back, venting being no problem.

[Moike]

Radiator inside

I installed my rad inside the tub. I use an electric fan, switched so I can reverse it. I use the fan to make heat in the tub for winter, and blow out for summer.
Moike
And yes the rubber tracks do not have the greatest traction in some conditions. I have also slid down places where I did not want to go. I have thought about using the same technique we used on motorcycle tires. We used sheet metal screws through the knobs into another strap of old tire we cut to fit. Only the head of the 2 1/2 inch screw showing out side the knob. We used three to each knob. Triangle figure, unbelievable traction on ice. I am likely going to try this as i find the tracks do not have enough traction, just enough to get me into trouble and not enough to get out. And should not effect clearance.
Moike

[budresiew]

You should ask RI for the track instructions. I'm sure there is an easier way than using a winch or other stuff to muscle them on.

[philipatmaxfour]

rubber tracks

With the factory tracks, can a conveyor belt attachment work. I am not sure how I would ever put the rod through it as I am telling you they are tight.
Moike

Moike, the person who posted before me suggested that you phone RI for advice re: mounting your tracks. That is probably very good advice. but to answer your question. when guys are mounting rubber tracks on the new argos after flattening the tires they pull the ends of the belt together using a heavy duty tie down strap. some guys have made up clamps.

[Moike]

All good advice

I am meeting a fellow in Halifax Nova Scotia who is going to geet me a couple feet of track to test. What I am going to attempt is to put the tracks on a 22 wheel. These 22's I have are new and on new rims, I will extrend the track a few inches to allow for the larger tires and hope this works. I do expect to have some trouble as I have bee advised that the tracks will only work with Rawhide III tires. Since these tires are difficult to get, kinda like hens teeth, I am going to have to try with a tire that is more popular. I have 22" Jackal. They are not as soft as the Rawhide, but so far I have not broke a bead or had a flat. And I have had that with the goodyear more often than ÙI would like to mention. Now I do not have any idea how much to extend the tracks, but figure trial and error will have to be the method. I have sourced clamps for the track, only thing I do not have is more wheel guides. However I am hoping that I will not need to put too much track so more may not really be necessary.
And thank you for the idea of the strap. that should work just fine. Thanks
Mike

[Moike]

I called RI yesterday. I got some good advice. Mat said that he had heard that many have removed the front drive chains. I am going to try this prior to spending more on the new rims. I am considering a new machine so I do not want to spend a bunch on this one.
I appreciate all your comments guys. I need to find a way to increase interest in these wonders in my area so I can have some one to ride with.

[Moike]

I now have the problem fixed. I was talking to RI and they had told me that it is usually advised to remove the front chains. Well This was the second time I had heard this. My brother also suggested it. Well once I did this I now have not had a front tire break its bead. I have been in snow that was well over the front of the machine. It just kept going. I cannot believe the differance. As well, it seems to have more torque with out the front drive chains.
A very happy camper I am!!!!!!!!!
moike

[getwilde]

Just found this thread. I have an older MaxIV (1994, I believe), that I bought just before winter. It has the older style rubber tracks with metal "L-beams" for teeth. Those tracks are HEAVY, but great traction.

When driving, I hear occasional "pops" under the floor... 2 or 3 per minute. I didn't give them much thought -- being a new owner. The kid who sold this machine to me suggested keeping tires at 4-5 PSI when the tracks are on. I don't know if he experienced problems at lower PSI, or what. But I haven't had any problem with beads breaking or tires deflating. Maybe I'm causing other damage? Having read this thread, it makes me wonder if the tracks are putting extra stress on the chains or sprockets and causing popping. Maybe I should decrease PSI, and try removing the front chain drive as is being suggested here.

Concerning putting the track on, I read some advice a few months ago. The guy recommended deflating your tires, then wrapping them with tie-down straps, around their circumference, down the center of the tire. Tighten the strap, deflate the tire some more, repeat. With the tie-downs still in place, mount the track, remove the tie-downs, and inflate.

I haven't tried this yet, but it sounds like a good idea.

[getwilde]

Moike, hope you don't mind me posting this PM you sent. Very useful information:

hey Getwild,
I have had two years of track trouble. After speaking with RI, I can say that less air works.
Some of the things I seen with too much air are heated bearings, loss of power, traction and the list goes on.
I really suggest factory tracks. Worth the money!!!! I have had conveyor belt among other types of prototypes I made and I will not tell you that you can not be successfull, but the factory kit has all you need. Length is cruicial. Air pressure is also very important. I now have 2.9 lbs in my tires. Was out on a run yesteerday, 78 miles, no trouble with tracks. Now my trouble is chains. Adjusters are very important to be in good working order.

As far as I know, the tracks I own ARE factory tracks. An ex-dealer told me they're the older style (if there's such thing?): Thick rubber straps grommited together, with steel L-shaped cleats on the outside, and cast iron C-shaped brackets on the inside (to keep the track on the tires). Very heavy... I would guess 50 lbs per track.

I just want to add that since my last post, the outer bearing cage shattered on my left rear axle. This happened while I was driving up a snow-packed road, less than 1/2 mile in distance (ie nothing aggressive). I suspect it occurred due to extra stess on the bearings, caused by over-inflated tires (currently @ 5 psi). Next week, after replacing the bearing, I'll try running at reduced tire pressure to see how it performs.

Edit: ...and I guess I'll get to try out that suggestion of using tie-downs around tires to deflate.

[artist1018]

I installed my tracks on my 8x8 Conquest by leaving them connected, removing all 8 tires, then, with the help of 2 other guys, put on the tracks while re-installing the front & back tire, slipping on the lug nuts, then put the 2 middle tires on & wiggling them in between the track. Eack side only took 15 minutes to do!!

[xrover]

Tracks will break hubs, broke mine. Where we went wrong was:
1) We did not follow the manufacturers recommended installation process.
2) We did not read the manual. RYFM
3) We did not follow the manufacturers recommended installation process.

- under-inflated is better than over-inflated as long as the tires don't slip
- you must put 2 tires of simliar circumference on the front and rear with the rear one being slightly smaller and less pressure
- you must ensure there is 2 inches of slack between the inside of the track and the top of the wheels as measured as close to centre as possible.

And since it sounds like you have some chain windup happening already, remove your rear chains. This will reduce the tension on the rear axles.

Does anyone know how to rig up a deflation tool using an air compressor to draw all the air out of the tire? I tried straps and it works but it would be easier to deflate the tires by drawing out the air.
Thanks