Chain adjusters?

[srg121]

The adjusters Richard sells are well worth the money and will correct your problem permanently.

How much are they AND what do they look like......any pics anyone?????? I also like the question mark after chain adjuster in title to thread becouse when I look at my "adjusters" thats exactly what I'm thinkin!!! also if you use crimp nuts,probably don't need second lock nut.this means you can make adjustments in hard to reach spots with a socket and long extention.....don't even need to get your hands dirty!!

[jerrynuss]

Go to Richard's site and look for them. he even has a detailed how to section on how to install them. They are easy to install. He has a sand blasted old ajuster and shows why it fails.

Welcome to Richard's Relics Parts for Amphibious ATV's, om the right sie of the page about half way down is a pic of several adjusters. Click on the pic for more info.

[jerrynuss]

Welcome to Richard's Relics Parts for ATV's

[Robio_8x8]

SRG you may want to re think your chain tensioners

Unless I am not looking at it correctly it looks like they do not offer any give. They need to expand and contract for turning, un even tire pressure, un even tire wear and even u even terrain. I admit the chain tensioners are wimpy and could use some beefing up but the need to expand or something will give hopefully you would just spin that tire but if it grabs something will break .

[jerrynuss]

I don't know, the factory chain adjusters don't give and are not spring loaded. There is a recommended amount of slack in the chain I assume this will work for uneven terrain and differences in traction.

I do know the adjusters Richard sells are far superior to the stock adjusters.

[srg121]

ROBIO i don't know who told you that but you do not want ANY SLACK or GIVE in your CHAINS or CHAIN ADJUSTERS...THER IS NO EXPANSION OR CONTRACTION..this will cause premature wear of CHAINS AND TENSIONERS as well as when you brake, steer or reverse will cause chain to "belly" on the strait run and rub on bottom of tub.IF CHAINS ARE NOT TIGHT....... ALL WHEELS WILL NOT MOVE SIMOTANIOUSLY!! ideally two drive shafts on each side with pinion gears spinning axles would be the ultimate setup!! motorcycles must use spring loaded tensioners becouse the suspention CHANGES sprocket to sprocket dimmention when compressed. they are also ONLY on the "SLACK SIDE" of chain configuration....OUR chain tensioners become "POWER SIDE PIVOTS" during braking,steering and reversing!!!! THEY MUST NOT MOVE!!!heres recreatives chain tension chart...1/2" play total....that's 1/4" up ...1/4" down....THATS IT...chain tensioners must not MOVE or GIVE!!!!!! NEXT...the chain tentioners richard clark sells although much better than stock max notched adjuster "slides" are STILL only a COPY of the original POORLY designed hustler adjusters!!!!they still need a hole drilled in top and crimp nut welded on so bolt can be used to apply AND hold pressure!!!!!!

[srg121]

I also don't like the length of threaded "slide nut"...it's not even equal to the diamiter of the roller.. hustler's design AND richards "copy" of bad design...not enough surface area to keep idler at perfect 90% angle....slide track and slide also need to have tight and precise "slide action"....then the idler "axle" can be permanently attached to slide.....this way only need to turn 1 bolt with socket and long extension to adjust AND hold chain and don't need to reach into hard to get places to tighten "idler axle" after...even though my adjusters will only be receiving a fraction of the pressure and abuse as everyone else's....using 6 outboard hub mounted brakes COMPLEATLY ELIMINATES ALL FORCES ON ALL CHAINS, ALL CHAIN ADJUSTERS,TRANSMISION AND CV JOINTS DURING STEERING AND BRAKING.....there are those times in the mud you need FULL POWER REVERCE this is the only time my chain configuration "flips" making chain adjusters "power side pivots" which require heavy duty ball bearing idlers!!That AND when my kids drive it and use the t-20 to turn and stop like everyone else instead of using the 6 disks......pics of entire transformation coming soon.....gonna start in about 1 month....just need to finish "fabrication room" addition on back of my shop....stick a fork in me ...i'm done

[philipatmaxfour]

Stick a fork in me--I,m Done

Thanks for that line, I hope you don,t have a patent on it because I want to use it. That,s funny Thanks

[Robio_8x8]

point taken

Maybe different machines do it differently

The Argo I have defiantly will spring open if forced but has a tension spring too take up the slack under normal circumstances.

http://www.6x6world.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/1649

[Roger S]

"Maybe different machines do it differently"

That's right, you guys are talking apples and oranges, on this older argo. Newer ones have a ratcheting fixed adjuster.

[jerrynuss]

That is an older design and Argo doesn't use that system any longer. The system like you had is prone to breakage but a lot of the older dealers still have the parts in stock. The Max Machines use a static chain adjuster. It is not dynamic like you have. It is adjustable but locks into a position and the operator has to physically move it to make the adjustment. It is subject to damage and dirt and some people will have problems with it. This is why many people change to a channel bolt system.

I'm sure the Argo guys will correct me if I am wrong but the newer Argo system is static but the adjuster has a spring that applies a constant tension and it will automatically adjust when there is sufficient wear in the chain or pad. But it doesn't use two pads or the clam shell type system that you have.

I think the double roller chain has also become a thing of the past.

I think the type you have is magnesium or some soft aluminum. They will melt very easily.

[jerrynuss]

Roger beat me to the post

[srg121]

[QUOTE=Robio_8x8;10286]Maybe different machines do it differently

Just figured since thread was in a max forum,we where talkin max's. I included the hustler design cause it is very similar to max design...had no idea argo used such a setup....ya learn something new everyday thanks for the info!!

[Robio_8x8]

The stoped the 50/2 chain? that is awsome.

That is an older design and Argo doesn't use that system any longer. The system like you had is prone to breakage but a lot of the older dealers still have the parts in stock. The Max Machines use a static chain adjuster. It is not dynamic like you have. It is adjustable but locks into a position and the operator has to physically move it to make the adjustment. It is subject to damage and dirt and some people will have problems with it. This is why many people change to a channel bolt system.

I'm sure the Argo guys will correct me if I am wrong but the newer Argo system is static but the adjuster has a spring that applies a constant tension and it will automatically adjust when there is sufficient wear in the chain or pad. But it doesn't use two pads or the clam shell type system that you have.

I think the double roller chain has also become a thing of the past.

I think the type you have is magnesium or some soft aluminum. They will melt very easily.

The double chain is amazing. Strong and very difficult to skip off sprockets. I like the twin #50 chains. 97 is not a very old machine in my opinion, defiantly newer then a hustler. I think that same design would go right up until they brought out the Frontier and Avengers.

[jerrynuss]

It is also heavy, requires more power to turn, and is more expensive to replace than a single strand #50. But if you like it on your machine that is what is important.