First 89 Max II Rebuild

[Rustyfritz]

Update 4/18

So this past week i decided to tear apart the salsbury clutch and see what was wrong with it. Turns out one roller was frozen solid. All springs were intact and none broken. So i tore it apart, cleaned all parts, sanded down bores. My clutch does not have the plastic slides like others ive seen, it was a brass bushing. Cleaned it all up and put it back together. Seemed to be working fine by hand and returning to full open but hand.

The fuel tank has been giving me a fit. Tons of rust inside and old liner. Filled it with hydrochloric acid and let that sit in there awhile. Worked pretty well in alot of spots. Took the rust right out and showed nice bare metal. Before if you use this acid, it is very acidic and dangerous. Wear mask, gloves, and eye protection. Fumes can overcome you and burn your lungs. So after i tried hydrochloric acid again, i decided i was going to buy the por-15 heavy duty motorcycle tank repair kit. It came with a pro strip which will strip everything out of tank supposedly, marine clean to clean all oil and varnish, a metal etch to prepare the surface, and the tank coating. Well poured the por strip in the tank to try and remove the rest of the old liner. Followed directions. Worked pretty well but didnt remove all the old liner. So i had to do some disecting. I cut the top of the tank out and cleaned the entire inside with wire wheel. Now im getting ready to welding a piece of metal back on top and get to cleaned and coating the tank.

As far as work on the machine goes. I got the half links i needed to connect the chains. Installed them and adjusted the chains. Set the engine in and bolted it down. Installed belt, adjusted for belt. Started it up and tried running it and wala, she moves, atleast the chains and axles do. So now on to the wheels and tires.

Man what a big pain in the butt. Some of the tires came flat on one side and bulged on the other. Then another set of tires came in with the sidewalls pushed in big time. The rim is 8in, the side wall was like 4in across. Well long story short, tried either to get them to set the bead, no luck. In the end a couple guys and come a longs got 3 more tires togethere. Waiting to buy more. 2 rims were pretty pitted so i may have to buy 2 new rims and installed tubes in the last two tires.

Installed 4 wheels on all corners, and set it on the ground. And i ran it around. Was scary driving it around with no control over the throttle. I had to reach behind me the whole time to adjust throttle. After only 10 mins of running around, the chains had tons of slack. lol. I took a video of the ride but do not know how to upload videos. So heres some up to date photos.

Plans for this weekend depending on parts arrival. I ordered bigger low idle jet, bigger main jet, new open air filter, emlusion tube, throttle stops to hook up throttle, and fuel pump.

[amphibious drew]

Wow you are doing a nice job with that rebuild. I wouldvnot tube the tires though. You will most likely spin the valve stem right off.

[Rustyfritz]

Heres a vid of first test run.

[Rustyfritz]

Wow you are doing a nice job with that rebuild. I wouldvnot tube the tires though. You will most likely spin the valve stem right off.

yea. i'm prolly just gonna buy 2 new wheels, they arent too pricey.

[amphibious drew]

If you bought them new i would ask for them to be replaced under warranty due to product defect.

[Rustyfritz]

If you bought them new i would ask for them to be replaced under warranty due to product defect.

I'm kinda lost here? The tires? or the wheels? The wheels are the original ones and have sat and rusted in water for quite some time. The tires are brand new and are just deforemd because of how they were banded down and or packaged for long time. Most likely why they are discounting them pretty well.

[amphibious drew]

The tires is what i was talking about. Ask around and someone should have some old rims they could give you for a minimal cost. I have only been in the hobby for a few years and wow the machines and parts you acquire is amazing.

[kmmn]

Rusty,
I just finished putting my 1990 back together. I only fooled with one side at a time, so I'd have a guide for general assembly. Some of parts are a really tight fit (like a big block in an early Corvette)... they all go back together, but there's definitely a method to the madness. I'm not too far from you, so if you want to take a look at one that's together to see how everything lines up, let me know. Good luck!

[Rustyfritz]

update 5/4

Well, now the work has slow down on this machine and i've only been able to work on it little by little.

I acid washed the gas tank to try and remove the old liner and rust. Worked good, but not good enough. So i deceided to buy por-15s heavy duty tank repair kit with stripper, etcher, cleaner, and liner. Tried the stripper in the tank and it work well, but yet again still did not get all of that old liner out. So i had to do a little disecting. I cut the tank open on the top. Cleaned out the inside with wire brush and wire wheel. Welded the top back on and cleaned and etched the tank. Added liner to tank, rolled around, drained, let sit, painted outside of tank with remaining liner. After set for 96 hours poured gas in and no leaks. Spray painted outside gloss black.

I found a little L bracket at work to use for the throttle. Bolted on near carb, attached using throttle stops the engine already had on it. Will attach pictures later.

The emulsion tube, jet and air filter adapter i ordered was for the wrong engine. Some how i ordered for the 6.5hp engine and not the 13 so now i'm waiting on new stuff for that.

Began wiring up the top lid. Added key switch from engine to lid. Added hour meter. (not sure how to hook up to only read hours when engine runs, may have to buy another hour meter that works off of spark plug wire and an antenna).

Removed old, wet, rotted seats and wood. Cut out new wood seat backs. Coated in wood sealer and painted brown. Wrapped in MAX4 HD camo 1000d cordura waterproof frabric. They look sweet and add a nice touch. Bolted the seats back on floor board and lid with 1" lag screws.

Still waiting to get 2 new wheels and 2 more tires. Gotta finish the wiring. Waiting on more engine carb parts to finish that up. Then i gotta wire in winch, bilge pump, and lights.

[fmints]

MAN OH MAN, what a great rebuild you got going on there!!

[Rustyfritz]

Update 5/18

Got new air filter adapter to install open filter. Removed gas tank from top of engine. Installed walbro vacuum fuel pump to body. Lined up new muffler to be welded to exit inbetween top lid slats. Did a little more wiring. Still gotta get two wheels and tires. Movig slow now but I will get it done sometime.

[Dave Smith]

Looks nice, you're doing a great job. The finish line is in sight.

[Rustyfritz]

Update 6/3

Well I'm in the finishing stages. I welded up my new muffler to an adapter plate for the exhaust. Still need to find a piece of 1 5/16" pipe for a turn out pipe. I got all the wiring finished up, secured in place. I still haven't a clue how to hook up the hour meter to only work during running. Also the charge wire of the predator engine has 2 amps also coming out of it so when I hook it to the ammeter it reads 2 amps. May drain the battery if I leave it hooked up. Not sure. I still have some finishing touches but my main problem is now I can't get the engine to run. I have a pulse pump hooked up to the valve cover. The original hole where the vent for the crankcase was is now open since the open filter intake doesn't have a spot for it. But. Here's my delemia. The engine won't run unless full choke. I checked and made sure the pulse pump works and it spits fuel out normally I would think. Is it possible the pulse pump is to much for the originally gravity fed carb? Or possibly I'll have to t into the fed line to the carb and run it back to tank if intact it is flooding the carb. No fuel is running out of the carb but it smells rich. I know someone can help me out on this problem. Thanks

[flippy]

I would remove the pulse pump-plug it then retry,hopefully you already fixed this problem

[m38inmaine]

My 1992 MaxII uses a "normally open" oil pressure switch to run the hour meter. The switch has two connections, one goes to the hot side of the starter solenoid and the other goes to the positive side of the meter, the neg side of the meter goes to the ground stud on the ammeter. When the engine is running the oil pressure closes the switch and provides power to the meter.

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