Muscateer out for a drive

[riotwarrior]

I'd come in to cook dinner and did and ate and back out...here we are nothing big...but it's done...what a PITA place to work in too

Here we have it...the Low OP sender and OP gauge line installed...whoop whoop.





Now I used the decompression valve and turned over engine so I could get oil flowing...here is fitting not leaking...YET...


Ahh...left the fitting a bit loose allowed air to purge and oil to weep out...


I then cleaned it all off and cranked away again with decomp valve on...spins like MOFO like that...and wow...good oil pressure and immediately too!

So here without decomp cause I can't do three things with two hands at this time..we have a full compression cranking pressure of oil pressure...NICE Eh?


This will surely make for a good informative instrument setup...IDIOT light and Gauge... I'm stoked, now a bit more wiring and I can start to mount the gauges in their holes...

The one thing that came to me is that using the hydraulic hose and a remote fitting like I have I can swap that our install a four port setup and then pump oil to Turbo in the future....ya...I planned that

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Removed my LOW oil pressure sender from the engine block, compared the threads to those on a hydraulic hose with 1/8" fittings.

BOTH HAVE THE SAME THREAD!!! So I decided that this would work and threaded in the hyd line, yuuuuup it fit, so I removed it added thread sealant and now I'm going to install the T seen in the picture, along with the LOW pressure sensor, and then lastly the nylon tube and fitting for the OIL PRESSURE GAUGE. Woo hoo...oh..this is a C@#% of a space to work in BTW...

So here is a gander at what I'm talking bout...

OH just got a new phone...so the pics should be crystal clear from now on!!!

Ahh...hydraulic line in block....niiiiiice


this line will retained up on inside rear of tub


The nylon clamps will retain the T and this should provide a nice support and be vibration resistant I'm hoping this will work well for what I'm doing.


Once I get this all wrapped up I'll get more pictures and so forth. I've been really busy with a bunch of other things of late to try and get any work on this machine.

I'm hoping this will be done soon, I've a parade to go to on Dec 05 for Christmas Light up....

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Lastly I've got a couple shots inside of the sealer, it appears to be basic silver/aluminum paint, but what do I know LOL

I've been rotating it similar to the metal prep but this time I want it warm so it's inside...Hope Super don't mind!






So it's surely coating the inside quite well by the looks of things, I'm doing the clock cycle thing to coat the inside thoroughly as I wait.

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

damn rinse cycles..LOL
Muscateer fuel tank sealing Part 1 - YouTube

Next is dry cycle then the final stage of coating the inside...

Tank drying now

http://youtu.be/1Ar4GQRo-E4

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Today I've started and will complete the FUEL TANK sealing so long as I can get it thoroughly dried once I've got it cleaned.

Started by boiling a quart/litre of water and prepping the tank with a 1/2" NPT plug and some duct tape for the other openings, poured in hot water and the DEGREASER from POR 15 and sloshed it around for quite some time.

I'm thinking my SUPER CLEAN in the purple bottle smells the same as their degreaser...Hmm...wonder....cause that's what I first sprayed into the tank to clean it before I steamed it originally...LOL

After a thorough sloshing about, I let it sit a bit whilst I fired up the pressure washer on steam mode, and proceeded to drain that fuel tank then steam that bugger out nice and clean...NO GREASE or slime left I'm sure, it was so hot of a tank I could not touch it.

After rinsing it thoroughly I've not got METAL PREP in, which is reusable too they say, so I"ve got it set on my V block stand and every 7 minutes I slowly slosh it about and turn it another few degrees and let set and reset timer which is where I am right now...between sloshings/turning LOL

Here you can see what I'm talking bout, I've almost got a full revolution of the tank sitting, but between being stationary I slosh it once around as well...slowly tipping side to side and rotating it as I do that. Then once on each end slosh and back onto V block in next clocked position...12 positions makes for a complete revolotion...like clock right???

Here at 6 oclock stage LOL


feed and return line fittings


This be my filler neck LOL


Once I've got this stage done, I"ve gotta rinse it again after draining the material. Then dry it right out, they say (they Being POR 15) to use a heat gun to blow hot air into tank. So I'm thinking that I should take heat gun...blow in filler, leave out the remaining plugs and let the hot air escape that way...maybe add a low regulated air pressure feed into tank...say through my AIR DRYER too to blow maybe 60 PSI of DRY air into tank, that ought to make it good and dry and heated in the tank I'm thinking...

I've got a couple of tip/slosh/turn cycles left then rinse, so enough for now.

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Lookin good! Was kinda looking for a fuel filter like that for the Yanmar. Everyone on evilbay wants a whole lot for them. Tried looking up that Napa part #, that's just the filter element itself.

You should be able to get the filter housing for 40-70 bucks, and with a clear bowl. I'm considering going to the clear bowl style myself just so one can see what's what.

Decided to spend time fixing wifes lil Ranger...engine swap and so forth, so that's wrapped up and essentially done and she's happy. Thus I'm happy, and today I removed cam gears and pump eccentrics from four 6.9/7.3 Ford/IHI IDI diesels so I can swap those cams as cores for head studs.

Man that means I've an engine for my truck to roll into shop and start tear down too as well.

Back to the Muscateer...

I've still got some lil bits to finnish for wiring, no big deal and I've worked out the basics on paper for a foot throttle, that leaves the fuel tank which I have a kit for and will document.

One thing I did do is start thinking out the HOW TO and so forth of engine cover and drive train cover to replace that expanded metal setup I could not use any longer.

As a fiberglasser I've some experience in a variety of methods of creating custom glass work. Fortunately for me my good friend Scotty, who is also a glasser from way back, now does blow in foam insulation. What we discussed was to MASK thoroughly all that needs covering and blow a big chunk of foam onto the engine area. Kinda like a big blob, which will then be cut/sanded into a shap that I want. At that point I'll set wood where needed for reinforcement, and then lay a layer of mat over the whole thing. Once set I can bust out all the foam, sand the inside and lay up more glass for reinforcement and so forth. Cut openings for ducting, and mounting hardware and paint then if need be some of that egg crate soft foam to make sound deadener inside the lid. This should provide me with a durable lid with capability to duct air in and out as needed along with a nice platform for gear.

You can all be assured I'll take plenty of pictures and document the glass work thoroughly.

Beer time now

Thanks for looking

[Rudy_Magnum]

Lookin good! Was kinda looking for a fuel filter like that for the Yanmar. Everyone on evilbay wants a whole lot for them. Tried looking up that Napa part #, that's just the filter element itself.

[riotwarrior]

Well it's cooled right down and with the Super's Ranger I've been neglecting the Muscateer.

Today with sore back and all I did eff all on ranger except get a NEW block heater and install it LOL>

Then into shop some mild cleanup and on to the six wheeler!

I figured time to get some electrical completed and sorted out, picking up where I had left off in post 354!

Thus that brings me to my electrical panel, and switches etc.

I added to more fuse blocks so I could do a fuse for 12V power outlet/horn combined, leaving me one single fuse for future use, and I may tie in a switch as an optional switch as well...strobes perhaps? I dunno but better to have it when I need it right?...

So here is where I am so far...pointing to LOW OIL PRESSURE light then to the left are two fuse cases and then the s4 circuit switch panel for all my stuff


Four switches are

GREEN UNSWITCHED transion oil cooler pump

RED SWITCHED fuel pump

AMBER SWITCHED head lights

RED SWITCHED back up light

I'll be adding on a Green switch as well for strobes I think before I do much more..

Here is what I've got figured out on the backside...first prior to labeling...see those two chevy electrical gang wire setups...one is switched, one is unswitched. I may rewire this so MAIN power goes to unswitched and then to IGN switch currently it's to IGN then to Unswitched gang wire setup...


Then I thought why not label it...and some Sharpie time got me this!




So at this point I walked over tested it and it's working perfectly, so now to finish the last few items, then move on to installation and get the damn machine up and running.

I'm sure this will pay off in the end big time having all my electrical new, recorded, labeled and well installed. I'm not one for failures when I'm out and about. Still need to run POWER for Bilge pump switch and pumps...for future use right?

Oh I fubared my hour meter I see cause the male spades where broke off so some time it must have broke while in machine, why I don't know but I'll get a new one.

May run the Pyro to back and work on a bung for it in the exhaust.

Not sure what this leaves, except some how getting oil pressure gauge and light to work.

Well enough for now, thanks for looking...

Be back at this tonight.

[riotwarrior]

Oooooo...Aaaaaa...

Off to Penticton today and I was at Lordco and picked up this kit here
POR-15 Motorcycle Fuel Tank Repair Kit

Now I can get back working on the fuel tank and wiring and get tank cleaned up and installed along with remaining wiring.

Looks like a straight forward procedure to clean/seal the tank. I'm going to get some PVC pipe plugs for the three bung holes to cap them and the filler hole sits INSIDE the tank enough it won't drain out of the hole.

I'll post pics and a fully detailed HOW to...maybe this can be a TECH 101 for big tanks too??? I'll see what I come up with.

Well now to and deal with a few things before Rose gets home.

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Got NEW fuel line and filter installed, still need run main fuel line forward to the tank location.

Ah filter housing, and I'm going to replace this unit eventually




Lines getting installed






Got line installed and grommet for safety


Now electrical, Ahh...Two uhm GM products here, for wire/electrical distribution


I will run ONE of the above from the ACC circuit on the keyed switch, to power items like Hour meter, and switch panel.




The other one will be off the MAIN power INTO the keyed switch for constant power, like HORN, and 12V acc plug I have.

This will help to consolidate how the power is tapped and clean up wiring to the Ign switch.

Looks like this is coming together...woo hoo...

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Ahh....man it's coming together..

NEW Tygon return line installed, I've got to get some clamps for this stuff....somewhere somehow


I wanted to see what I could do to get a visual of how the lines and wiring are coming along under the edge in the small clamps. Clearly that oil pressure line needs a bit of TLC but I'll get it, I can't reach in that space to easy, other than that this is working superb! This is looking back to where the fuel line exits INTO the tub by fuel pump, and all the electrical for the fuel pump, starter, trans cooler pump etc.


again looking back but from about where the fuel line would enter tank so to speak..


Welded and done, now to seal inside


cleaned up the fuel filter that came with the engine, it's a small cannister, I'm thinking this is getting installed


small section of inlet broke off hope it's not a problem


likely get installed someplace like about HERE lol


and a reminder of what it all looked like when I got it...notice pile of wire near head lights..


Ya this beast has come a LEAPS and BOUNDS from where it was...

So that's tonights work and I'm done for today.

Thanks for reading

[riotwarrior]

Just checked on my tap/die set, and I've got both 1/8" NPT tap and die, I rechased the nipple with my tap and low and behold a significant taper to the thread now compared to previously.

If that grease gun hose works I'll do it so when I remove engine I can just uncouple it from the T, that would make it really convenient in my mind. The more I can do to simplify service to this the better.

Oh this has been today...BTW

Ahh...the low oil pres, warning sender, sorry for blurry pic but camera wouldn't focus and I had no room to move back..


the oil pressure gauge new tubing is threaded along Pass side and reached to sender easily


Here with fuel tank removed, you can now see the added wood and 1/8" steel plate I used on inside of winch mount...clearly this is strong! I don't think I'll pull bolts, maybe whole front end off but not bolts....but that's 3/4" plywood glassed to tub under the 1/8" plate...ya should be good to pull. Two holes on RIGHT up top are for power wires to winch I'll be installing with all this out.


Ah front of unit with mount...ya strong!


Pulls from below winch and above winch or top and bottom of tub...


RETURN line location to be


This is the fitting I'm going to weld into place


Bung fitting I'm adding to bottom of tank



Yuppers all welded into place, now to plug it and test for leaks...




and the return line fitting


Got a score, the Super wifey brought this home today, small case Ford 3G alternator...this could be the end all be all of electrical power for this machine



Would sit something like this...???


That would make charging battery and winching superior to the lil Dynamo in the fan assembly, which in and of it's self is a RPITA to setup considering I've not got all the stock parts to do so.

Well gotta cook some dinner soon, then I'll be out to test the tank for leaks if none then paint and steam it out again and call Lordco on a fuel tank sealer kit.

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

damn....damn damn damn damn....grrrrrrr

Ran the plastic tubing for the OIL pressure gauge today, removed the oil pressure warning light sender and Low and behold, the sender fits INTO the 1/8" NPT Tee I have, on all three ports, the gauge sending adapter fits too, and so does the 2" long 1/8" nipple.....but does the nipple fit the block...Noooo...NO freaking way I could thread it in.

It appears the threads on the pipe nipple are not cut deep enough or tapered enough, or...OR ...the oil pressure warning sender is some type of metric thread I dunno...just pised off I am.

On a side note, I did however get more wiring completed and I'm glad about that.

I'm thinking tonight I'll pump out the fuel tank so I can remove it and do a more complete job of under the front end wiring and get the bung welded into it for the return line as well.

I'm just working slow on this as I want to do this thing right and once and NOT have to redux this any time soon. Once these wiring and fuel issues are done, the machine will be damn near as NEW, and I want it to perform as new too. NO break downs due to electrical or fuel related issues etc.

Man I'm getting kinda project bummed out...but I keep on keeping on so I can have a useful tool for home, farm, SAR and fun.

Thanks for reading

[riotwarrior]

More wire strung today, and control panel prepped for install.

So I'm NOT big on cutting wire till all lengths are set in stone, so here I"ve run the leads for the starter in blue, the fuel pump in green and the transmission cooler pump in brown. Leaving the rolls intact until I have the other end setup exactly as I need with eyelets on the ends I can set length, pull back excess and cut/crimp/heatshrink the ends to the correct length. This saves aggravation by either cutting to long of wire and having to trim it or worse, too short and having to add an extension. To me this is the best method bar none....others experiences may differ LOL


Here you can see the 8 ga wire with black tape on end protecting it and also the other wires pulled through for the main switch panel I'm using for now. This panel is turning out quite nice and I may even toss on a gauge or two and a couple of warning lights, as well. LOW oil pressure, and CHARGE light as well, as they are stock with the Kubota engine.


I then had company show up and spent too much time chatting and not enough time working. Oh well all good.

Tomorrow I'll be damn near wrapped up and have the electrical mostly completed. I should be able to shall I say, start and run the machine, once again.

Charge system is still up in air as I'm maybe going to get a small case 3G Ford Alt and add it in.

Well thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Did the trip to Kelowna picked up the JD 1630 with no problem. Used the trailer I installed the winch on...rocks that does!

Onto what I grabbed was 5 rolls of various coloured primary wire in 14 ga two weld in bungs for fuel tank return line...which ever one works best..

While in Kelowna I get a call, Hey Al, Dale here, I dropped my tractor off for service, Oh I'm in Kelowna picking up a tractor and won't be back for a few hours, hope that's not a problem, Nope, Ok I'll get on it when I get back.

So upon return an oil change and some copper washers in the fuel system, a steam clean and done! bout an hour of work, so near 90 bucks with cost of oil/filter.

Alas, here are some pics from wiring yesterday and the new rolls of wire...craptastic price of 8 bucks a roll for 25'

Now this is the product I use to coat crimps before crimping unless I'm doing crimp/solder...also I coat the contacts and threaded terminals as well.


Car audio oxygen free, tinned copper wire 8 ga from starter power in, up to the Ign switch. For most of my automotive installs of almost anything, I try to use hi quality materials like this wire and the corresponding fuses and so forth to promote good solid installs, thus that has transferred over to my six wheeler too


double insulated spade terminals M/F with spades coated in goop for electrical contacts. Not heat shrink too to support wire further, this is so engine removal is easier to undo GP lead. Look close you see the clamps I use to support wire and fuel lines, just wire in this picture


GP end of wire


Now this tub is NON conductive fiberglass, yet I still grommet fuel and electrical LMAO


Again...for fuel pump electrical lines, now that it's being installed permanently it gets done RIGHT


All the above was yesterdays work.

And the stack of wire I picked up today and I'm pointing to the likely bung candidate for welding into the fuel tank


So with all the wire, and a BLACK paint marker, and a RED paint marker and a YELLOW and WHITE paint marker, I can make a great harness with proper colouring and tracer colours if needed

Well tomorrow it's finish off the S10 then get back onto my six wheeler so I can drive this damn thing. I'll pump out fuel tank and prep it for removal and welding in the bung.

Enough for now...

Thanks for looking