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  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Hmm....Throttle works like hot damn!

    Well today I did the IED on the six wheeler...that's an Improvised Expansion Tank aka breather/overflow etc

    So with some 2 1/2" plastic pipe two caps and another 1/2" fitting I've created a nice little IED as I like to call it.

    Here is the jist of it.

    ahh...some container goodness


    the fed end


    tiny hole at the top for atmospheric vent


    Plumbed for business.....Oh ya


    Installed....LOL don't laugh it works well.



    Ah...the I E D label Improvised Expansion Device buwa ha ha ha ha...


    And I will be doing a LIL video to show how well the IED works...once I get the next stage taken care of...

    Now I'm onto wiring up this beast somewhat, have some plans, got the Main power lead figured out to IGN switch, also running the GP wire, and was smart enough to make a union on it at the engine so when time to pull engine it is pull the plug and voila..engine comes out! Easy Peasy!

    Thanks for reading

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Well attempted to run up the machine today to high RPM's while sitting and the transmission ends up pumping and airating fluid up the vent tube...hmmm...not good.

    Blocked the machine up on one side 2", then I let it pump out fluid till it was nearly stopped. This drained out 300ml of fluid. Removed blocks and it's still pumping fluid up vent tube, so now I'm going to increase the vent tube diameter, build a catch can/ vent/reservoir and hopefully get this solved once and for all.

    The cooler seems to strip heat off quite well. I'm quite pleased with it so far.

    Well I am attempting to see what Amsoil recommends for fluid for this unit, so far ATF is what I've used, but TDH transmission fluid for tractors is an option I am considering.

    Catch can to be built tomorrow most likely with some ABS I have floating around here.

    Thanks for reading

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Hmm...for testing and demonstrative purposes only...children don't try this at home!

    Got the cooler plumbed however it may need a redux...this is for testing and so forth. LET ME say I'm hopeful that this will solve my issues once and for all.



    That's what I've got done and I"m quite happy with it.

    Thanks for looking
    Last edited by Mike; 09-20-2014, 08:38 PM. Reason: embedded video by using the filmstrip button

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Good day today with this unit.

    Got some essential wiring investigation done. Basically I grabbed the multi meter and went to town on the diesel Ign Switch determining what post does what. I then wrote it down as a wiring diagram so I can follow it later. I also did same with the wires going to/from the VR for the diesel. That leaves me to test the dynamo leads and ensure it's working correctly. If not I may bypass it completely and remove the idler pulley then install a small internally regulated Alternator for more available power for winching and so forth...maybe a small 1500 Watt inverter etc.

    Also removed my gauges, and current wires so I can establish new circuits for lights, reverse lamp, 12v port, Glow plug indicator and so on. It all comes down to another REDUX of electrical as the original was bad, mine was better and now the new stuff for diesel setup will be even better.

    Cut the dash for the Bilge pump controller so I can install it as well. Still have to acquire two bilge pumps, one for each sides chain wells and then plumb them so they discharge out the sides.

    With all that I located my Shureflow pump and now can start to locate fittings and a back flow check valve so I can make the transmission cooler up and running. I doubt the pump will last for hot oil but it's going to work for proof of concept.

    Off to exhaust and I cut the current spring over the muffler into two springs, rebent the cut end to a double loop and 90 deg offset and bolted one on one side and couldnt find bolts for the other..doh..tomorrow then that's taken care of too.

    There is a bad leak from my LEFT control stick so I am contemplating unhitching it from the lever and then seeing if I can fix the leak in the tub instead of having to undo all the lines and remove the entire control cylinder. I'll take pics of that if I do it in tub and also if I remove it.

    One thing, I still need to locate a bung fitting for the return line for fuel, as I picked up some 3/16" ID Tygon fuel line for return line and a fitting to go into the fuel tank. Hope to have that wrapped up soon as well.

    Seems to be about all I've done today, so productive but not HUGE movement on it.

    Thanks for looking

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    I have a couple of coolers in stock here so I'm ok.....

    That being said, 4 holes drilled and voila...gotterdun



    3 on this side...blue locktite and done


    two on this side...one more but I will use that spot to bolt on the engine oil cooler next...not before it gets some mods


    as I said just a wee bit over rad cap....so Golden..and I can still remove that cap LOL


    So once I have the engine oil cooler and some stand off tubes made up I'll bolt it in place and be done.

    That should be all I need for cooling. Now to find my stupid pumps...where the hell did I put them...this shop cleanup is killing me I can't find nuthin!

    Time to pick up some 3/8 oil cooler line too so I can plumb this all in.

    Thanks for reading

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    This be the oil cooler/s I've chose to setup for the transmission and engine.

    Here I've got the tranny one resting and you can see the rad above it



    situated correctly it's about 1/2" above the top of rad cap...not much at all and is full width of rad, I can use the factory 6 bolt holes on rad you can see in the above images for attaching the cooler


    This little one is for engine and is in front of the large transmission one






    And the busy side, with the fan that sucks air through from the other side


    That would be a good setup IMHO

    Thanks for reading

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    This be the oil cooler/s I've chose to setup for the transmission and engine.

    Here I've got the tranny one resting and you can see the rad above it



    situated correctly it's about 1/2" above the top of rad cap...not much at all and is full width of rad, I can use the factory 6 bolt holes on rad you can see in the above images for attaching the cooler


    This little one is for engine and is in front of the large transmission one






    And the busy side, with the fan that sucks air through from the other side


    That would be a good setup IMHO

    Thanks for reading

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Originally posted by Rudy_Magnum View Post
    Ah, so a system kind of like my old John Deere 2 cylinders. They called it "thermo siphon". Works on principals of convection. Popped the rad cap off the D once to have a look, you'd be surprised how fast that coolant was moving.
    Ya it's like those old setups and yes thermo siphon is a good way to describe it.


    This weekend the machine performed quite admirably, it wasn't driven far or much and unfortunately my wife didn't video it

    We did take the dog out on the lead and she would run in front of it...no worries 25 foot lead! so she was well out front.

    Lots of fun at the campout, I broke the T handle throttle, and had to VICE grip throttle it. That will be fixed ASAP

    The Primary clutch works very well redone with new weights and such.

    Machine sounds good, starts nice at 5celcius just Glow plug for a bit then turn it over...fires quick now.

    So things to do

    throttle/s, vent for transmission!!!!!!, electrical, winch wiring aka more electrical, return line for fuel system from injectors to fuel tank, trans cooler and pump setup, engine oil cooler, engine cover and some cargo racks front and rear.

    Stay tuned for more pics and vids

    Thanks for looking!

    Leave a comment:


  • Rudy_Magnum
    replied
    Ah, so a system kind of like my old John Deere 2 cylinders. They called it "thermo siphon". Works on principals of convection. Popped the rad cap off the D once to have a look, you'd be surprised how fast that coolant was moving.

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Originally posted by Rudy_Magnum View Post
    I notice there are two radiators. Sorry, haven't read whole thread, so don't know if you mentioned about it. I'm likely gonna end up with two as well, just curious about where you got those. I've been eyeing up the ones at Brighton Racing Products. They're pretty inexpensive. Just gotta wait until they have the ones I want in stock.
    This engine is quite an interesting lil beast. It was used in Trans-Cold or Carrier refer units amongst other things, pumps and pressure washers and gen sets.

    The rad you see is one singular rad, with two caps, why you ask...I have no clue, there is no separation between sides. The replacement rads have one cap??????? Doh???

    The engine has a horizontal piston arrangement vs vertical and that rad sets right on top of the block. There is no water pump or any thermostat, it is a gravity style cooling system so I"m hoping it's adequate for my needs. I have a small Briggs oil cooler to add on later but I want to make a rear cover for the machine with ducting for rad/fan.

    Hope that helps Rudy!

    Thanks for looking

    Leave a comment:


  • Rudy_Magnum
    replied
    I notice there are two radiators. Sorry, haven't read whole thread, so don't know if you mentioned about it. I'm likely gonna end up with two as well, just curious about where you got those. I've been eyeing up the ones at Brighton Racing Products. They're pretty inexpensive. Just gotta wait until they have the ones I want in stock.

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    OK I did take some pics some blurry damn broken phone...

    Ahh...started today by steam cleaning the inside AGAIN


    Primary clutch now has new heavier weights and new springs so that's all set for DIESEL operation woo hoo!!!!!
    New weights and springs on right....old ones on left


    New and old stuff...new ones considerably more weighty..


    Got battery mounted and secured, main battery cables run and connected.



    Got the engine on the UHMW plate spacers...woo hoo


    New Diesel coolant and De-ionized water mixed and installed in place of old stuff.

    Exhaust pipe is built, and muffler mounting brackets fabricated, painted, installed, and muffler installed. Looks ok for a quick hack job













    No throttle pedal, however I did install a locking throttle cable like for revving a truck up for winching etc. It works and gives me full throttle control so it's better than a static wire I clip on and off




    Only have to wire in some basic stuff tomorrow GP, and Ign switch, fuel pump switch and lights and horn and it's done for now and then I will be firing it up.

    Hope Colin my son brings the two bolts I need for exhaust, that will be just fantastic.

    Machine should rock now with clutch tuned and engine making full power and running properly

    Thanks for reading...I'm getting excited for the camping trip this weekend!
    Last edited by riotwarrior; 09-11-2014, 11:21 PM.

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  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Got coolant drained and new coolant ready to install in engine,

    Welded the Tri-Lok nuts in place for mounting engine plate instead of having to use a wrench on two and screw driver to jam beside the other two...Thanks to John Deere Brian for use of his mig...

    Now engine plate installs with ONE wrench, so simple.

    Re-did the 1/2" bolts and angle iron to a longer bolt for the one wrench engine mount too as I added 7/8" thick UHMW between engine mount plate and engine to lift it for more belt clearance.

    Also doing battery mount under cross bar for control levers.

    Attempting to locate two 7 x 1.0 x 30mm long bolts for exhaust...UGH..may try see if drill fits in there and drill em out and use bolts and nuts...stupid me forgot to check before installing engine and IT IS NOT COMING BACK OUT!

    So that leaves throttle which may just be short term rigged with a cable for now...from a golf cart ahem....for temporary use ...till I can work out a mechanical linkage. Cables get water in em and freeze, mechanical linkages are simple reliable and preferred by me!

    Nuff for now, oh..got new fan belt too LOL

    I'll try and get some pics soon.

    Thanks for looking

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Found the copper gaskets ...as they are called by Kubota and the two O rings, these are the two parts I just replaced to stop the leak.

    On the one lower copper you can see a significant deformity that I feel was the cause of the leak, the old rubber O rings are brittle and hard and broke when I attempted to remove them with O ring pick LOL



    Indicating that boogered spot


    Close up of the buggered copper, clearly based on the different impressions it's been tightened and re-tightened a few times, and thus I think that is what caused the crack I circled and subsequent leak I was experiencing. This would also degrade performance as it puked fuel out the leak and it should be going to injector!


    Not much done lately just found these while cleaning up and figured should at least show WTF was wrong.

    Thanks for looking

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Just a silly update; while I've been CLEANING the SHOP....again....some more..... found the decal I was after for some time from my supplier and decided to make my machine whole again...so

    Before, I always felt that though the mount turned out great, it really messed up the look of the front with a blank spot


    After, I like this much better now, it feels complete...ya right!


    Just hate things when they don't look correct so now I"m pleased to knock that off the list finally.

    Two holes on LEFT of decal are for the main power leads to the winch I'm going to run. I've got some good 4Ga wire and I'll seal it up with some silicone when I pass them through from outside and inside! They will go to the control solenoids inside and then to the battery.

    Thanks for looking

    Leave a comment:

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