Muscateer out for a drive

[riotwarrior]

Darn, ran into a snag, I attempted to install my current belt a Dayco HPX 2213 and I found out that my FRONT LEFT plate mount bolt and poly bushing/bolt rub the belt quite badly. Lucky for me I left enough space on the plate and the 1x2 rectangular tubing 3" long for another hole. Thus I had to cut a notch out of the corner and redrill my mounting hole for the engine's plate.

No problem took about 20 minutes for the Redux and it fits nice. I could have lifted engine up off mounting plate with 7/8" thick UHMW plate that's floating around the shop however I felt the notch method was the best!

I gave James a ring and asked about some longer belts he said come on down and check out my belts. So I grabbed three belts to see which seems to be best. His suggestion was the longer the belt the better for cooling, makes sense to me!

Even with the longest belt it appears there is some room on the slots for more adjustment. However I've got to affix the engine to the plate and then the plate to chassis to determine if this is true once bolts are in place.

So plate as it was origninally


NOW as I've notched the one corner


Ahhh....yes, much better I must say!




Overhead view...hmmm...nice




Starting to look like this was designed for it originally eh?


Lots of room to move engine forward


And as you can see here there appears to be some room to move it rearward too.


Thus I've got this about as good as I can now, I ordered all new grade 8 hardware and tri lock nuts to hold the engine plate to chassis and the engine to the plate.

As I mentioned I may just make an angle iron bar under the plate that the bolts pass up through, that will support the engine some and I can weld bolts too so I don't have to use a tool to hold them to make adjustments just loosen the nuts on top side! Ya, probably will make bar as once it's in I don't want to remove it till oil change time.

The plan is a couple of valves installed for draining oil and coolant...oh wait, there is a coolant one already...crap..I just need a hose I can use my vacuum tool to suck out old coolant then, OK just one valve for oil then LOL

Best get back at it, so later

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

This morning go out, and start and Brian says scribe the marks for holes..OK I sharpened a nail and bent it 90 deg then marked the holes...thankfully I had painted the plate the day before! Seemed like a simple method instead of marking with paint....

Thus we center punched and then I drilled the first set of holes!


Lines up nice


Next came enlarging the holes so the poly bushings would fit ...first drilled larger.. IF you look close you notice I cleaned up the edges of the plate too and trimmed a bit off the LEFT edge compared to the previous shot!


My drill bits where not large enough so I used the die grinder and enlarged them slowly till the bushing would fit snug in the hole




The step on the bushing holds it in the plate




Ahhh...this is starting to look a lot like it's supposed to, notice the old soft rubber bushings the old plate used.




The old tops from the previous rubber bushings seem to fit...hmmm


Ahh...the lift I have been using to put it in and take it out..repeat as needed rofl


So this is where I'm at and doing lunch, back at it in a while

Should get some new 1/2"x 1 1/2" grade 8 fine thread bolts, and lock nuts and flat washers to bolt engine to plate.

I may make some straps and tack the bolts to straps up from bottom to make it so I only need one wrench to make adjustments ha ha ha...think of service in field right!

Thanks for looking!

[riotwarrior]

My goodness I just MAY make car show sort of if this keeps up! Most likely would not have an exhaust ROFL no time to fab one but eh...on trailer off trailer twice...ya I can handle that without exhaust!

SO yesterday was not much work due to a short hike trip to the falls, and then lunch and back home with Pastor Jason, which is OK cause we planned hike for long time and never managed to getterdun...so we did!

Came home got some stuff done on six wheeler, test fit plate on engine and installed..hmm...needs more work, ok tomorrow.

Also had to fab up a 3/16" spacer for the secondary clutch, as it's designed for a 0.98" wide belt vs the 1.18" I use.

Gotta love a plasma cutter, I first drilled a 1" hole then psuedo centered the hub and ground it out to fit then cut it out of the plate shown here




Hmm..epoxy it in place and it's set for now!


Plates first fit


1"x2" rectangular tubing I"m pointing to here are the spacers I'll weld in place soon


Pre drilled holes for plate, I can take cotton soaked in paint and press it up against hole to mark plate when it's finally located


Poly bushings for NVH noise vibration harshness, to isolate the plate and engine a bit


Crap...had to redux the RIGHT side mounts ...no worries just mount to outside and vertical at 1" high, so here is how it is


Close ups




Thanks to Rose who drove to Kvillage and picked up 4 1/2" x 1" bolts, I'll get some grade 8 fine threads later but this is all about FITTING so these will suffice.

Plate is painted and fits nice to bottom of the engine eh?


Once I dropped the engine down in place I had to center it properly aligning the two clutches...there is supposed to be 0.240" offset from inside lip of secondary to inside lip of primary, as you can see by this image of my guide.


So I have the plate on the welded in rectangular tubing, and I can move it around a bit quite easy. I've got to align the clutches as indicated above. So I took some square tubing and clamped it to my primary inside edge, then kept moving engine a weeee bit at a time until I had the alignment I needed on both the forward and rear edge of secondary!




Old belt for testing fit...


As you can see it's right on the mark. I managed to get the clearances to 0.241" front and rear of my secondary with this setup.

This alignment was of great concern and a lot of work however in the end I'm thinking this will pay off with better clutch response and belt life as well as cooler running clutches and belt.

Tomorrow I'll take some YELLOW paint and spray cotton balls and then stuff them in the rectangular tubing and press up to the hold I drilled to mark the plates four mounting holes.

Those holes then get drilled to about 7/8" and I can sandwich the poly bushings between the rectangular tubing and plate and then on top side of plate giving me some cushion and vibration isolation for the engine.

That leaves some electrical, and some fuel lines...woo hoo...Oh ya, started to make power cables for the front winch too that will clean up the front end!

Thanks for looking!

[riotwarrior]

Nice fabrication and ideas, its nice to have a plasma cutter I do a little fabrication myself.

Thank you!

[chris davison]

Nice fabrication and ideas, its nice to have a plasma cutter I do a little fabrication myself.

[riotwarrior]

Here we are and have my plate for engine kinda sorta figured out. The main thing I'm concerned with is alignment of clutches LEFT to RIGHT and with no angle or deflection from one to the other. I've had a significant issue previously with the trans and engine clutches not in correct alignment. NOT THIS TIME....I didn't build the last setup, just assembled it to a working functioning unit.



Here is where abouts it should be...close..


two cuts for oil pan hole and two to go, man I live having a plasma cutter it sure makes it easy to do this type of work


Hole cut and engine sitting on it out on the pallet


A lil bit of clearance forward and aft


Marking for a hole and slot assembly


Looks like that hole is cut right for alignment of clutch...I made a bit of room to slide side to side and get this set correctly


in place


different angle


This is my MASTER KEY....it's got my alignemnt specs I need to follow to have clutches function as intended


Taking a straight shot from SECONDARY clutch to the engine plate and create a line to align from/tp


So I've made some good progress today as can be seen. I've picked up some small shock or sway bar end links in red polyeurathane to act as dampners for engine vibration, and I hope that they work well for me.

I'll mount the plate up soon once I establish clearances and alignment..

Theme here....alignment and room to move to make things aligned!

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Ha, lunch break,

Here we have what I've got going on with trans mounts. As I had mentioned I welded the two pairs of upright portions together to drill them in the exact same spot, then I cut those apart and bolted them to the trans and set it in place checking, rechecking and rechecking chain alignment the whole time, as well I did test SECONDARY clutch clearance and wow...I'm golden as well as seat clearance...getting tight...means that's going to be warm; after all that I then tacked them in place.




beside old parts cut off, ya just a tad longer eh rofl


rear bars bolted to trans..




Front bars and rear bars in place...trans sitting there nicely


Getting close




Clutch is on and just sitting there for clearance testing...looks amazingly good with the amount I've created








Yup lots of clearance there


So that's today I've welded them up and they are cooling then a clean up with a grinder and some paint. Then I can Start working on the engine plate.

After some more measuring I've discovered I can actually lower the engine 1 1/2" down and still have clearance under it over the RH rear chain to rear axle. This is good news as it equates to a lower C of G.

As always thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Dayum...

New starter, primary springs and weights, and a Briggs engine oil cooler ordered and shipped, all three should be arriving in Oroville WA this next week I hope.

Should make for a good time I am thinking.

Properly starting, adding oil cooler to the water coooled engine should be great and having the primary clutch setup correctly.

Back at it again today, now that I've cleared out 100 + gallons of WVO and for that got 10 gallons of 100% bio-diesel. Good swap for me I need the space the 100 gallons took up in 3.5 gallon containers.

Once I've got the trans mounts completed I'll get some pics up.

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Not sure on the exact model this is but the horizontal engine with gravity fed rad is same basic design as the engine going into my six wheeler...on OB where I've got THE build thread they posted this in it's own thread....so without saying anything more...

Kubota FARM TRACTOR owned PICKUP TRUCK in Drag Racing !!! - YouTube

Now I've got a turbo to add as well

LOL

[riotwarrior]

OK this has got me all excited now and I'm just stoked how well this thing fits and lines up.

I made this lil plywood plate to make the trial fit simple. This should be quite helpful to make things fit well.




getting closer, L O L I removed the air filter assembly as well as the starter to lighten it up for manual insertion


From pallet to engine bay...


Clutches line up, sorta and I'll get it bang on once I've got the transmission mounts rebuilt. Trans is sitting in the right location but for old small clutch L-R positioning is almost perfect...just needs to lift 2-3"


Clearance for oil dipstick and filler along with filter, and it's not as close to chains as I had originally anticipated



lots of room behind seats for trans to come up, and starter


Here it's as it is now, however it may drop an inch or two even...once I know more on trans mounts








Tomorrow I'm on the trans mount brackets to get that set and I can begin working on the engine after that. I had to test prior to any redo of trans mounts to make sure it would work OK with it the way it is planned and it's going to work really well.

I'm quite excited about this and this is coming together really nicely. At this point that rad is about 5" above the edges of tub. however that may change if I can drop it down some, that would also lower center of gravity a bit.

Thanks for looking

Al

[riotwarrior]

Here you can see what I'm talking about.

The PTO output shaft bolts to crank on engine, and is HUB centric, this ensures it runs true.

You can see me pointing out the PTO/Crank assembly, the three retaining bolts and hub centric location



Here the keyway on the PTO is clearly cut, however I wanted it to go off the end, he could not cut closer to the face of assembly, which I understand.


Here the clutch on Left would slide onto PTO shaft with keyway and be held in place with a bolt.



That's what I'm talking about just to clear up any missunderstandings.

That clutch in turn just like a regular ATV/UTV/Snowmobile drives a diven clutch on the large finned transmission. That transmission needs to be lifted near 2 1/2" up so I can install a larger diameter secondary and get the correct backshift under load as well as lower gearing.

[riotwarrior]

Spent last three days doing a Wilderness First Aid course, to go with my WCB L III I have already. Was a blast and learned a bunch.

Dropped my PTO off on Friday AM and by just after lunch it had the key way cut, not as I had planned but for now it will do. I may see if the fellow can weld on MORE shaft and cut a longer keyway for me, as that would be best IMHO.

Got some smaller steel, same size as old mounts for transmission so that will be simpler to build now.

I've got to get some help lifting that engine into my six wheeler I just can't do it on my own. 135++ lbs is not something I'ma gonna lifta up and over the edge of tub and then lower INTO tub, heck 110 lb Tecumseh is a struggle to get out on my own!

May have to break out the engine crane I suppose DOH....

Well this week I'm all over this pig for sure thanks for looking...

[riotwarrior]

I still can't get over that paint job! I think it is the best looking AATV I have ever seen. ATV for that matter. Is there a trick to doing that. I would like to copy you if you don't mind. Bill

Thank you for that H U G E compliment, just start with your base colour, as I'm in desert area I started with Kahki ...I did my best to mirror digital camo of military on a larger platform.

Take and get lot's, I mean LOT's of masking tape, 2" 1.5" 1" and 1/2" and less if you can get it. If you look at the first or second page you'll find the link to the original build, some pics of masking and so forth. take your time masking and planning then go to town.

The goal is my truck/trailer/6wheeler all done in the same patterns.

Again thanks so much for the compliment

As for you wanting to copy it...Please fill yer boots I don't own a patent or copy write on it it. Base and 3 colours....


Al

Oh and I did get the PTO cut for key but he didn't do the whole shaft DOH, as I had said but for now it will do for setup and basic testing of diesel. If I need full cut keyway I can go back, only cost 20 bucks and that includes 2 feet angle iron and 1 foot of bar stock

Thanks for looking

[moparharn]

I still can't get over that paint job! I think it is the best looking AATV I have ever seen. ATV for that matter. Is there a trick to doing that. I would like to copy you if you don't mind. Bill

[riotwarrior]

Today was; I hope, the last day I drive the Muscateer with stupid speed clutch and gas engine.

I've removed the engine and transmission mounts so I can start to fab replacement mounts for the transmission to get it high enough to clear the larger diameter clutch. Also got busy removing the engine, and the throttle linkage from pedal to rear of machine, all brackets for throttle.

Thus here is PTO from diesel which needs key way cut, and I could turn about 0.194 more off the face down to 1" as has already been done. I'm not sure it would make much difference if I did, regardless the key way must be cut in order to use the engine as I plan.





These two mounts need to be about 2 1/2" taller so do the mounting holes

First the front mount


Rear mount, thumb is about where the hole needs to be...it's quite a bit taller than the old one.


Here the transmission is just loose and engine plate gone



HERE the red X marks the batteries current location which will most likely be moved, the three circles indicate 3 of 6 mounting bolts to remove that whole engine/trans frame, which I may just do and the two slashes on the jack shafts are where planned disc brakes will be going in the future. The brakes will provide independant L & R brakes to be used independently or together.



With the changes I'll be needing a new belt for sure, so it's important to get the basic mounts worked out so I can measure C to C of crank to input shaft on trans to determine the belt length.

That's enough for now, I'll add more as I go.

Thanks for looking