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  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Ign switch went kaput, so I've bumped up my Kubota install as it's got a different wired switch and I'm wanting to transplant the diesel in. I'll be doing trans mounts this week, and working towards the diesel install asap. The panel that is wired for Kubota engine will be transplanted into Muscateer and I'll add in a Pyro and Boost gauge too.

    Amazing how these lil machines eat up time and money and and and LOL

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Got clutch parts for testing, cause after more research and emails with Roy at QDS it is determined this is a model 700 salsbury clutch. Not a 770 as I was told previously...but honestly I didn't know either.

    In order to use this I've got to raise my transmission about 2" so I've made new parts to weld to the mounts and replace the old ones. I'll add about 2.5" in height which will allow me to go up to an even larger 860 11.25" clutch if needed.

    I'll get some pictures up soon as I just washed out the tub and so forth to get it nice to work on again.

    Whats a good chain lube BTW guys I've got to lube mine up now that I've washed em all down with steam cleaner.

    Thanks for looking...

    Oh ya put in request to have some 3/16 plate steel cut to 16"x16" for diesel engine mount and a 12"x30" for a rear winch/hitch/trolling motor mount combination too!

    Leave a comment:


  • rodp
    replied
    Originally posted by riotwarrior View Post
    Really?

    ID 10 T's

    ID10T's

    idiots....

    Buwa ha ha ha ha....

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Originally posted by rodp View Post
    ?????
    Really?

    ID 10 T's

    ID10T's

    idiots....

    Buwa ha ha ha ha....

    Leave a comment:


  • rodp
    replied
    Originally posted by riotwarrior View Post
    I've been in touch with Roy at QDS via email and phone, and over the course of many emails, we have come up with a list of parts for two different scenarios.

    The service he has provided is second to none and his patience with my lack of knowledge and understanding is great. He has helped me to figure out what's best by looking at some pictures and reading Torque and HP specs on the diesel engine.

    Thus I'm just about to order enough parts for both Gas and Diesel engine 780 Drive, and a couple parts for the 770 driven clutch I have to test with. The 770 had quite a lot of rust on the sheaves and though sanded off and cleaned up it still isn't as nice as I"d like. So if this works OK then I can later order a new 770 and if I still don't have enough LOW gearing a 11 1/4" dia 860 driven.

    Parts list as follows...

    DRIVEN PARTS:
    1 - 703102 - Spring-Black $ 20.00
    1 - 703831 - Cam Slipper(3 PER) 3.00

    Gas ENGINE Clutch
    DRIVE components:
    1 - 164-0005 - Weight Asy.-Kit-91grm (3 PER) $ 45.00

    Diesel ENGINE Clutch
    DRIVE components for 900 RPM engage:
    1 - 602253 - Roller wieght asy. (105 grms) 3 per $ 65.00
    1 - 703548/49 - Spring kit (green) 35.00

    Total for all $168.00

    I'll order the 3/4" to 7/8" adapter for my driven clutch as well, that takes me to near 200 bucks for the clutching on my machine, and allows for two engine combinations. First is the gasser setup and then I can work on adding turbo diesel.

    Well damn if that aint a bad price for essentially a 3 clutch setup!

    Lastly will be locating a new belt for the larger secondary setup. That should be quite fun here we have ID 10 T's for people who work at parts places ROFL

    ?????

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Well after much talk with my Superwifey,

    I've ordered some of the parts needed and soon I'll be having a different secondary that can be used on hills, which I happen to live in around and so forth.

    should be a week or two and I'll have this wrapped up.

    Can't wait to show the differences on video and so forth.

    Al

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    I've been in touch with Roy at QDS via email and phone, and over the course of many emails, we have come up with a list of parts for two different scenarios.

    The service he has provided is second to none and his patience with my lack of knowledge and understanding is great. He has helped me to figure out what's best by looking at some pictures and reading Torque and HP specs on the diesel engine.

    Thus I'm just about to order enough parts for both Gas and Diesel engine 780 Drive, and a couple parts for the 770 driven clutch I have to test with. The 770 had quite a lot of rust on the sheaves and though sanded off and cleaned up it still isn't as nice as I"d like. So if this works OK then I can later order a new 770 and if I still don't have enough LOW gearing a 11 1/4" dia 860 driven.

    Parts list as follows...

    DRIVEN PARTS:
    1 - 703102 - Spring-Black $ 20.00
    1 - 703831 - Cam Slipper(3 PER) 3.00

    Gas ENGINE Clutch
    DRIVE components:
    1 - 164-0005 - Weight Asy.-Kit-91grm (3 PER) $ 45.00

    Diesel ENGINE Clutch
    DRIVE components for 900 RPM engage:
    1 - 602253 - Roller wieght asy. (105 grms) 3 per $ 65.00
    1 - 703548/49 - Spring kit (green) 35.00

    Total for all $168.00

    I'll order the 3/4" to 7/8" adapter for my driven clutch as well, that takes me to near 200 bucks for the clutching on my machine, and allows for two engine combinations. First is the gasser setup and then I can work on adding turbo diesel.

    Well damn if that aint a bad price for essentially a 3 clutch setup!

    Lastly will be locating a new belt for the larger secondary setup. That should be quite fun here we have ID 10 T's for people who work at parts places ROFL

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Got my turbo the other day wow it's small, I'll be having to do some fab work to get it in with the Kubota but it should be well worth it IMHO.

    The decision has been made to try the used 770 clutch I was given, I'll get a new spring for it along with new plastic bushings and a sleeve adapter to enable the 7/8 bore to work on my 3/4 shaft, this will be the least expensive method for me to get a proper torque type secondary clutch, and it's large enough 9.88" to have some low gearing. If it does not offer low enough gearing I'll have to bite the bullet and get an 860 Secondary 11 1/4" diameter.

    Looking forward to ordering in some springs and weights too for the kubota's primary clutch, which I'll order when I bring in the spring/bushings for the 770 secondary, may as well get all the parts at one time right?

    Well I'll update soon when I get some more pics.

    Thanks for reading.

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Well I decided to see if getting the engine aligned and set a little forward would help me out a bit more.

    C to C for engine and trans clutches now sits at MIN 11 5/8" but I can go back from there ....SOME TIMES I ADD THIS INFO SO I DON"T FORGET IT...and it's easy to find instead of a piece of paper...

    On to what I was doing, here you see the engine plate modified for better adjustment to align this up better. I'm not too worried about things right now as I've got the Kubota going in hopefully in next few months, this just is temporary to see how or if clutch works better and to get this into a parade in next couple of days.






    So after installing engine on plate and playing with adjustment it does line up much better, I'm still needing a different or longer belt and secondary clutch, I'll be posting pics of engine in place after I get the clutches sanded and cleaned. I brought belt in house, degreased and cleaned it something wicked and that should help it a bit.

    Now onto axle bearings in R R axle.

    For starters, this axle tube without the axle is nearly as large as a tube of grease, this means I need near six tubes of grease to fill all six axles DOH



    Here is the main tube all cleaned out...


    What the tube looks like bolted on...LOL


    Here is the R R tube off the body tub




    Looking down at the front two axles with wheels...



    side by side, housing and axle


    spring loaded teflon wipe that presses against the outter seal of the bearing to assist keeping debris out of seal


    This shows how much of the axle sticks through into tub



    Here you can see this OLD bearing, the O ring inside, my replacement bearings of same # do not have those, I've got to find 12 of these O ring sealed ones but for now what I got with new races will have to do..


    That's about all I have right now, I'll get more as I re-assemble it all and get engine in and belt back on.

    Thanks for looking

    Leave a comment:


  • chris davison
    replied
    There are many pics of this brake setup in Custom 8x8 volkswagon with seadoo pump. I basically have two discs on a vw transaxle, a sand rail turning brake and the stock vw gas brake and clutch peddles turning the steering locks up one caliper or the other but pushing the brake pedal locks up both.

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Originally posted by chris davison View Post
    Yes I see it all. I have a hyd. foot brake that locks up both calipers and brings all 8 tires to a skidding halt perfectly straight. It works great. Maby you can try something similer.
    Have you by chance photos and such of this setup? I could be quite interested in something that works like you describe.

    Leave a comment:


  • chris davison
    replied
    Yes I see it all. I have a hyd. foot brake that locks up both calipers and brings all 8 tires to a skidding halt perfectly straight. It works great. Maby you can try something similer.

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Originally posted by chris davison View Post
    Not familure with this machine is it partial hyd. with chains, or fully mechanical with belt drive and trans.? Does it have disc. brakes?
    Go to first page, 3rd post click link to build, it's all there!

    Leave a comment:


  • chris davison
    replied
    Not familure with this machine is it partial hyd. with chains, or fully mechanical with belt drive and trans.? Does it have disc. brakes?

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Haven't been doing any wheeling with or work on the Muscateer for a bit, I've been cleaning shop LOL

    However I did take my PTO from the Kubota into a my friend Ian's place and he has a nice lathe which he turned down the shaft diameter for me. I took in my clutch from Nubs yesterday and we did the final cut for diameter, and we will do key way later.

    I need the PTO to work out engine mount details along with how well if at all the clutches will align.

    Well without much ado...here are some of the pics I shot with it sitting on the engine...wow what a change from before eh?

    As it was when I got it 1 5/16" shaft and a key way


    Now a 1" shaft and no keyway yet! He managed to back cut it too a bit and get the clutch closer to the engine, and provide more shaft for engagement



    Here it is with the 780 Commet clutch






    This should be really close to what I'm needing I've got exhaust and throttle n such to work out as well but for now, this is where I am.

    I'll be mocking up the mounting of engine soon, I've gotta get my shop all cleaned and sorted out first. Need room to work freely not cramped any longer I'm sick of the mess.

    Once I've got it back in the shop, and the gasser is removed I'll start the basic mock up for engine mount and proceed forward with it and provide more info.

    Thanks for looking

    Al

    Leave a comment:

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