How bout that,
Checked on bearing cups, I've got no new ones for the axles, so on ebay there where 8 as a set of new cups, BIN price 30 12 bucks to ship, BEST OFFER of 17.50 accepted so under 30 bucks for 8 new cups. This works well, I've got a bad bearing or two in right rear axle, and I've got 3 new bearings, leaving 5 cups for the remaining 5 bearings needing replacement. I'll be getting to those ASAP as well.
Then I'll repack all 12 bearings again pump the damn axle tubes full of grease which is damn near a full tube of grease per axle!!!!
Ya that's a lot of grease in there wow! No going small either gotta fill it full or water gets in and settles and causes all kinds of mayhem.
Did some more measuring today, appears that my current plate for 12hp tecumseh sits high enough so when I make a new plate for Kubota there is oil pan clearance underneath. No need to raise engine yet...however some chain clearance may require a subtle lift of engine that remains to be seen yet and I won't know for certain untill the mock up plate is made for the diesel engine.
Also giving consideration to changing control lever layout from strictly vertical to having horizontal handles like a motor bike however on the end of the levers. This would allow a thumb throttle or snowmobile type throttle instead of foot throttle like I currently have also it would make it easier to do brake levers for brakes as well.
Anyone using a thumb throttle like a quad or snowmobile? Can you tell me PRO's and CON's??
Thanks
Al
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Got some bleeding done today of transmission controls, still no bump stops.
Also working on a plywood mock up for the engine mount plate for the diesel engine. Hope to have it so I can plan that swap in spring timeLast edited by riotwarrior; 12-29-2013, 07:45 PM.
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Got it all back together, trans sealed, stupid annular piston adjustment screws leaked and I sealed those.
Drove it late last night, gotta get governor back on it asap ROFL. Stalling could have been dirty fuel filter so changed it.
Clutch didn't engage early enough so I had to remove the springs and rollers from my old one.
As you can see there is a difference in the rollers and springs, my old rollers are metal and have a long pin through them as well as much lighter springs.
Old ones on right

The springs that came with the clutch wow..big and the rollers are plastic..no weight to engauge unless spinning hi rpm.
Changed them out..whole different machine.
Still need a better secondary clutch.
Contrary to what I was expecting, I was able to remove clutch with engine in machine

both trans engine missing clutches

one new roller and two springs and two old rollers and four springs in clutch..I did them one at a time


So took it for a quick test drive, I still think I need a longer belt however I've got to accept it as it is.
No sense making changes to the belt until I get another clutch, then I can work out exact length and leave a little margin for error.
I'm hoping I can get the six wheeler into the parade tonight. I've got a couple of flashy lights I will try to get on it first.
Wow. Nice having a machine running again
LOL
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Well I fired it up...no load it engages and runs in as supposed to. I clearly need a longer belt mind you as it won't get into high gear.
Not to worry I'm more interested right now in just getting it back together.
Seems to work OK time will tell.
Adding on some RED and BLUE strobes for the parade, maybe a couple yellow ones to and a green Code five...gotta have fun for kids right? LOL
Now I had all 6 wheels off ground and it works forward back chains tight and clutch working. Seems to be a higher RPM one that what I had previously.
I'll know more later today or tomorrow once I've got it off jack stands and running on flat ground. We will see how she holds out under load
Thanks Nubs! I'll be ordering a new spider and some springs/weights to make adjustments.
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NOT quite yet, hopefully later on today, regardless; thanks...now to get me a new secondary...too close to Christmas for that sort of thing though LOLOriginally posted by Nubs View PostGlad to see your up and running.
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Got more done today got final assembly of clutch, got it on the engine and all that installed.
New solid mounts to plate are much better that leaves the plate and it's isolators to handle the vibration dampening. I had two sets of vibration dampers the mounts to the engine plate and then the engine on rubber isolators to the plate..didn't work well and engine ones disintegrated.
Now here is where I am



All electrical connected and all fuel lines exhaust and so forth connected, leaves the chains and adjustment and then DONE I should be able to drive it.
Damn throttle/governor lever mounting bolt broke. Now not sure but hoping that I can get it out and replaced...got a nice 90 deg drill that should fit in there tight but ok....
Nuff for now
Al
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K got the clutch from Nubs here and decided to gamble on some locktite 680 and drilling and pinning the spider!
It turned out ok got 3 set screws to help hold it along with the Green locktite! Good stuff that is. I measured and there was barely 0.005 difference between shaft and spider...that's within tolerance of the locktite so I'm likely golden...
Here is the spider pinned

I just really need it to hold for one good drive...in a parade on Friday evening...for Christmas light up!
I've gotta get it running and have some fun in the parade. I'll be hoping it holds..I'll really inflate the tyres to reduce contact patches to a minimum and hopefully allow some good zero turn donuts LOL
Also redid the engine mount and I'll get some pics of said spacer later as well.
If lucky the 780 driven that was mailed last week will be here soon maybe in time for the parade...if lucky!
Nuff for now.
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Haa...Insurance agent was here today, checking place out for the property owner. He took pictures of my Muscateer and is willing to sign off on the insurance form indicating VIN check etc. Woo hoo...looks like I'll be fully insured in near future.
Gotta love just rebuilding a machine and have the ins guy check it out...nice and clean and so forth talk about fortunate!
Al
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Oh that is TOO damn funny that is. Well I suppose you may have perused the build thread then LOLOriginally posted by thenewguy View Postah no crap im on oil burners to! im 73idi88f350 thought your user name looked familiar
What type of machine do you have and where are you located?
Took it out for a spin...literally today seeing as it was first snowfall of the year....wow it's a blast in the snow and I cannot wait till there is a bit more and hardpack on the roads...then nuts gallore for sure!
Picked up the 780 Drive clutch Nubs had for sale for parts, waiting on it to arrive at US border for pick up.
That will be getting rebuild and installed onto the Kubota, that leaves a 11" secondary to pick up.
Hope to be able to locate a big ass secondary some time soon.
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ah no crap im on oil burners to! im 73idi88f350 thought your user name looked familiarOriginally posted by riotwarrior View PostNope custom paint job by yers truly
build thread
Muscateer 6x6 I've been doddling and working on for years!!
hope that answers you
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You know that's a great idea a bump stop so to speak to help know/feel that point. I've really gotten used to it now and I just use a light touch, I allow the sticks to fall to N basically and gently with finger pressure pull back to engage brakes.Originally posted by jerseybigfoot View PostT 20 transmissions react similar on coast and power steer. Maybe you can fit a resistance device against the laterals at the point you engage reverse. Attex used rubber bumpers on the steering linkage to feel the start of brakes. Of course the higher the speed the more important you know when the brakes start to engage. Trying to stop a Attex at any speed over 30 mph is a challenge.
I'm considering some type of mechanical or hydraulic brake setup on the two driven jack shafts that are driven from the transmission but drive the axles. A hand lever on each control stick and somehow tie in a park brake ratchet handle as well.
That would allow an optional brake for turning and stopping/slowing down and parking. To me that would be the best with your idea of a bumper as well.
I'll be looking at that idea of a rubber bumper. I just may have some material for that too..not too hard or soft...
If you check out my other videos on youtube you'll see some stuff regarding the transmission how it works etc and driving video...I need to have a partner video this for me while I drive slowly to depict what's going on LOL
There is a thread in transmission section about a Hagen transmission...video IIRC is posted there too and quite a bit of info, there are a couple of machines made with this transmission, some AATV like Newt the Bold and one or two others and a Ridgerunner snowmobile and it is a hell of a neat unit too as far as transmissions go.
Thanks for reading
AlLast edited by riotwarrior; 10-31-2013, 12:37 PM.
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T 20 transmissions react similar on coast and power steer. Maybe you can fit a resistance device against the laterals at the point you engage reverse. Attex used rubber bumpers on the steering linkage to feel the start of brakes. Of course the higher the speed the more important you know when the brakes start to engage. Trying to stop a Attex at any speed over 30 mph is a challenge.
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Yes forward / neutral / reverse each stick independently.Originally posted by countrycummins99 View Postso if you pull back all the way on your sticks it goes into reverse like a hydrostat machine? not just breaking?
I can do skid steer and zero turn radius as in my video both are portrayed.
It uses annular pistons acting on a clutch system to engage the gears be it reverse or forward.
It's really quite effective, it's my chains that are just ever so slightly miss aligned and under hi torque turns there is enough deflection of the body to cause the binding.
Lots of fun because under power to controls do one thing and then under coasting the cause a different/opposite response..ugh
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so if you pull back all the way on your sticks it goes into reverse like a hydrostat machine? not just breaking?
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