Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Muscateer out for a drive

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Nubs
    replied
    cable barrel clamp

    Leave a comment:


  • JoeMeg
    replied
    Lookin' good!! Say,in your last post,pics 1,2 & 4 show a small brass dohickey for the cable to go into and be secured by the screw. Do you (or anyone else) know the "proper" name this device? Thanks, Joe.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nubs
    replied
    Cool

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Well coolant is in transit and as such I stqrted putting together the machine.

    One major hurdle was the foot feed throttle to allow more capability out of the mqchine rather than a static throttle as it used previously. I also am maintaining the fixed T handle throttle for certain applications as well besides it is also the Fuel shut off too.

    Here is the little adapter for the cable I made from some solid stock.









    Turned out ok...drilled right through intersecting the wire hole drilled...then taped the hole and used two set screws one waz green locktightened into place then the other set scre clamps down on the cable making this a nice little functioning pivot poit for cable and foot throttle





    Here you can see both the foot throttle and fixed T throttle and how they work. Made the bracket for cqble for foot throttle too and mad a small U bolt to retain the cable. Also notuce no gasket for rad yet on block



    Gasket ready for rad and bottom of cleaned rad



    I was able to use a hacksaw blade and thoroughly rod the rad out ensuring that I hqve full flow when I get Evans coolant in there.



    Rad installed




    Not pretty but the second rad cqp removed




    Here is the temp sender port for a mechanical temp gauge too




    Here inside filler port....nice and clean...



    So now I am awaiting coolant and the mechanical gauge to show up. A 6 foot tube on thermocouple isnt long enough so a 12 foot one is on its way.

    More to come

    Thanks for looking

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Well I did it and that HURT .....bought two jugs of Evan's Waterless coolant. now I hopefully can work the cooling out once and for all.

    Will update once testing is completed

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Got my friend Guy to drill out the throttle cable end #7 bit and I tapped it 1/4 × 20 added one set scre on the bottom and set it with GREEN sleeve and bearing retaining locktight! Now I can run a second set screw down from the top and lock the cable and connect it properly this should aleviate the slight bind I was experiencing.

    Napa got me two new bearings for my fan and I packed em with some Enviro Lube grease. Now those bearings are in a zip lock in my freezer. Tomorrow I will put fan housing into oven for 10 min 150 deg and then slip bearings into place

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Got the rad back from Tom at Osoyoos Radiators. He did a great job of tanking it and removing the one problematic rad cap and installed my temp guage port in the rad tank as requested for 80 bucks.

    When I got it home I took an old dull 12" hacksaw blade and used it to carefully rod out the cores. This worked awesome and helped remove some left over build up.

    Throttle pedal works now and I installed a coupljng fittjng onto my oil pressure adapter as well so install and removal of engine will be simpler.

    The decision has been made and I wont run the machine untill I get the Evan's waterless coolant. This should help in stabalizing tempurature of the engine and make it more pleasurable to operate. Time to add a coolant tempurature guage too however my mechanical with 6foot tube is too short so now it is an electric model I will be seeking....doh!!!

    I would also like to add some type of valve on the oil pan to assist in oil changes, something I can attach my vacuum pump to to suck out old oil; however that may wait untill I get a gasket for the pan. I can then add a retun line from turbo.

    Seems like machine spends more time down than up...darnit...

    oh well kinks to work out.

    oh ya..thinking may change the 11/22 gearing from trans to jackshaft to something like 14-16/22 get bit more speed as I have plenty of torque. Then later a 2sp box when one falls into my lap..

    Thanks for looking.

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    The last trip down to the river I was attempting to get out via the tracks from previous quads....bastards digging ruts like mofo. well they dug in so deep it was too steep and slick clay to get out. The machine is quite azz heavy and as such I was getting a bit concerned about flipping 1100 lbs on top of me.

    Now I am thinking about some type of ROPS so I either can use this as an excuse to by a tubing bender or...or...use sched 40 pipe. Hmmm....pioe is going to be easier to get and a frend has a bender for pipe.

    hmmmm

    well now to calculate out how much material I would need.

    damn....glad I am runnjng at diesel!!

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Getting crap dealt with.

    This be old seat wood

    New wood..

    Glassed in the two black body mounts are what the seat frame rest on.

    Working on the throttle linkage too.

    Here is the cable routed to throttle pedal.


    Engine plate with angle iron welded on so no more flex.




    Well thats bout where I sit with it for now.

    I await the rad so I can get it on too.

    Also hqve to figure out throttle cable on pedal end since it is just routed but not connected.

    More to come thanks for looking

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Machine is or sjiuld say was back together. Axle in drove to river...still over heating so when cqme home pulled engine and removed fan and rad to find a large amojnt of oily debris packed along bottom of raf behind the fan.

    Pressure washed off engin block and inside as well. Steamed actually and then did rad wow the gunk that came out fro between core was amazing. I am going to soake it super good with Super Clean aka purple power. Then steam it again....that **** cuts grease nicely and I hope it will be enough.

    The goal iz get rad to rad shop service it rod it out and see about a Bung getting soldered into tank for a temp probe.

    Plan on Evans waterless coolant once its all cleaned out qnd such. Need to measure how many litres I will need.

    While engine is out I will see about oil return line for turbo and oil cooler. Thinking route oil through cooler then jnto turbo...shoukd be ok I think.

    There are a few other mods to do but thats enough for now...pics soon

    Thanks for looking

    Al

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    with the milder hot weather I managed some glass work so the new 3/4" plywood seat mount pads are glassed in as well the top LH side of tub iz repaired where I sit n swing my legs i to tub ....arse to big suppose cracked it.

    Did a repair on drivers seat ae it cracked due to having to clearance it some for T throttle handle which is now being relocated.

    The foam will not work for a core it melts so OSB sheeting is what I have so it is what I will use to make engine cover cargo rack combo.

    Looked into Evans waterless coolant and think that will be my next big purchase.

    throttle cable for foot throttke n thats a wrap..for now.

    pics to come

    thanks for looking

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    Originally posted by chuck c View Post
    You might be able to reduce that control sensitivity by lengthening the distance from the control levers to their pivot points. It's hard to describe- I mean move the linkage further from the pivot point so it take more motion of the control to move the linkage the same distance.
    Thanks...

    I don't recall saying control sensativity was a major issue. It takes a bit of getting used to especially transiitioning from flat terrain forward motion to downhill...steering control inverts and essentially becomes opposite to what is intuiative.

    A set of disc brakes on the jack shafts would help alleviate some issues.

    I can change control sensativity by changing the distance the annular pistons must move to actuate the clutches inside the transmission and beleive me it makes a big difference with small adjustments.

    As it is I am quite comfortable with how the controls are all dialed in at this time.

    read back through and find the video depicting the transmissions annular pistons and you will understand more fully

    Leave a comment:


  • chuck c
    replied
    You might be able to reduce that control sensitivity by lengthening the distance from the control levers to their pivot points. It's hard to describe- I mean move the linkage further from the pivot point so it take more motion of the control to move the linkage the same distance.

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    I have decided to go ahead and pull engine and remove rad and clean it out then clean block and drain it in preparation for Evans Waterless Coolant.

    Evans Cooling Canada

    The evans coolant along with the addition of a engine oil cooler should help to get my boil over issue under control.

    while it is out I can work on a turbo mount and the alternator mount as well.

    figure I should get heat under control before adding turbo.

    hope to be back up and running soon.

    Leave a comment:


  • riotwarrior
    replied
    first broken bits n prep work




    see the grease nipple on the axle housing...and notice how my axles are fully sealed in grease..



    axle pencil tipped with hose clamp as stopper to keep flange in proper spot



    flange and collet tapered so the 3 parts get weldrd together



    Ian a great friend tig welddd it all together...top shelf job no picks though

    basic start of engine cover.it will be foam core fiberglsss encapsulated








    thats what been doing...

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X