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First Terra-Jet Project, for a Newbie

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  • #46
    1 step forward, 5 steps back. So last night, just as I was getting the freshly painted cover on the chain channel and relocating the engine oil filter, I noticed a pool of oil under the transmission. Actually I had put a paper towel under it before I installed it so that I could see any drips. After checking for any signs of leakage, I noticed that the anti-seize I had put in the key channel was very fluid. Turns out there is a hair-line crack in the hub that goes through the transmission and it is leaking oil into and out of the key-channel.
    20200310_230926.jpg

    Which means everything has to come out again, tranny split again, pull out the hub and repair/replace it. After crying all night, I think I may clean it up good and put some RTV in the gaps between the axle and the hub and down in the key and see if that will hold it off some. Then, if I'm lucky, I may be able to get a season out of it and pull it all apart again next winter. Maybe...

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    • #47
      Crack is too small for me to see in the picture or I'm not looking in the right place. Can you circle it in MS paint?
      I'd clean it up with acetone and see if you can get some JB weld over it, otherwise, RTV should work fine, I've always had good luck with it. I wouldn't go pulling everything apart yet since I don't think there is anything else you could put on top of this IE doing more work to get this ready to run won't make it take longer at this point to take back apart. Besides there is a good chance when you drive it for the first time, you'll discover something you need to tear into the machine to correct and this can be done at the same time more permanently. Depending on how slow it drips its and if it's not structural you could just leave it be, My Coot drips oil like crazy out of its transmission from all the seams and I just let it. There is enough oil in there to run for a week before refilling and that's plenty for me.

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      • #48
        It is literally just a hairline crack, but I'm sure it extends to the other side of the seal, which means oil fills the whole key area, so it can leak out around the axle on both sides of the transmission.
        Crack.jpg

        I'm going to clean it up good and RTV it. Like you said, there will likely be other reasons to pull it apart. I just don't want any issues with low fluid in the tranny, as I've heard these machines tend to eat them...

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        • #49
          Going to leave the transmission for now. It will have to be adjusted side-to side on the axle to fit and line up the engine, so once I do find it's place, I will RTV it in place.

          Moved on to the muffler, as the Vanguard one will not fit. Did some surgery:
          20200311_222234.jpg
          20200311_222225.jpg
          20200311_224444.jpg

          I was hoping there would be some connection to the two exhaust tubes, but looks like they both just terminate into a common area, so...
          20200311_230901.jpg

          Next up, I saw someone plumb in the exhaust using plumbing/gas piping, so I think I'm going to do that to get it over to the TJ's muffler. Stay tuned...

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          • #50
            If you have room flexible exhaust tubing can work in place of hard pipes as well, they tend to rust out after a year or so but pretty cheap (and can be had in SS)
            Otherwise Iron pipe works as well, these machines don't move nearly as much fumes as a full size car, so I never worried much with them having 90 degree bends etc in them or being slightly undersized. My Coot with vanguard has tiny 3/4 iron pipe and has plenty of power.

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            • #51
              Here's what I'm thinking, with a screen shot from youtube:
              Shoemaker exhaust.jpg

              and then connect to the muffler with a flexible piece.

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              • #52
                I tried making an exhaust for my old Max using pipe and fittings. It didn't work out for **** and I spent a lot of money on fittings.

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                • #54
                  I think you're right liftlod, looks like a lot of work to get all the piping to line up. I'm thinking maybe best to go with something like this:
                  Flex exhaust.jpg

                  First of all though, I need to figure out how to line the engine up with the transmission correctly...
                  20200313_134653.jpg

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                  • #55
                    So, still trying to work out this exhaust. If I'm going to keep the engine under the hood, without raising it up and cutting a hole in the lid, then it will sit pretty close to the transmission. The exhaust port closest to the trans is right where the secondary clutch is. To get around it, I welded a 3/4" 90-elbow to it to get it up and over the clutch wheel:
                    20200317_221028.jpg

                    I was going to try and connect both sides with pipe, but I now have this:
                    20200318_090903.jpg

                    Which is going to make my life easier. Now I just have to figure out where to cut the pipe(s) so that this tube fits on comfortably and not in the way of anything. If anyone is looking for this, it's Walkers brand and it's sold cheap by the foot at Grainger. I ordered it yesterday and it was just delivered this morning.

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                    • #56
                      I'm not off during this pandemic, so still only fitting in the TJ when I can. Looking at getting the right belt now. I borrowed one that is 44" long, but that looked like way too much:
                      20200320_190056.jpg

                      I ended up getting an HP2014, which is 22" long:
                      20200325_222149.jpg

                      Hopefully I can adjust the trans now to pull it more tight. Either that or I will have to look at even smaller.

                      Also working on the throttle setup. I had the cable from the original engine and throttle switch, but it was a little short and seemed to not slide very well. I picked up a new cable, which is way too long, but slides much better. I guess I will shorten it and see how she goes.

                      I made up a mount for the other end of the cable as well. Compliments of Ikea...
                      20200325_225850.jpg

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                      • #57
                        Finally got things all put together the other day. Extended the key switch on the motor so that it could be mounted in the dash. I still have to jump off of it for lights to work. I ran the new fuel lines and got the brake and linkages all connected. Looks like it's supposed to:
                        20200329_152838.jpg

                        Only issue is when the engine starts to get up to speed, the secondary clutch opens and rubs on the exhaust! I've sliced down the elbow as much as I can (even exposed the inside and had to patch it). Looks like I will be pulling this part off and making a new one that's tighter to the block. Luckily, grandma's not using this anymore, I think it may just do the trick...
                        20200330_122835.jpg

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                        • #58
                          i have the 2'' exhaust flex pipe in my max 2. have had no problems for years. your project looks great ! johnboy va.

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                          • #59
                            I hate doing things twice, but in this case there was no option. The original exhaust I made:
                            20200331_185649.jpg

                            After slicing and dicing:
                            20200331_210430.jpg

                            And back in place:
                            20200331_214946.jpg

                            Thanks Grandma!

                            Didn't get a chance to try it out last night, hopefully I may get it out for a road test today.

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                            • #60
                              looks good ....was that piece from grandma a grab handle of some kind ? j.b.

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