Custom build questions

[Noel Woods]

I've only got 50ish hours on the machine. I've had to purchase no new parts and the engine continues to run well. The supplier indicates that they have the ability to secure any parts. A-1 provides a one year warranty for parts as well on the purchase of any new engine. I have really been impressed on the build quality. It makes the Briggs 18HP in my Max 2 look like ancient technology. The best thing though is direct injection-there is absolutely no fuel starvation at any angle I've driven at, and I tend to push the limits. Throttle response is instant, torque is always there, economy is beyond anything I thought possible and the price is awesome.
Rumor has it that John Deere has cut a deal to use the Winsun diesels in their line-up. If anything, I think parts will be easy to get.

[Middlefork Miner]

Noel, how many hrs. do you have on it? Is there any kind of customer support for parts? I notice on one of the websites they list the injectors as bosch. But things like starters & such might be a problem???

[Noel Woods]

Whether you go differential drive, t20, or hydraulic, it should be a great machine any which way you cut it. I look forward to seeing the build take place. Having gone thru the build process myself, I'll tell you its a lot of work, but it is fun, and the reward will be in the finished product.
FYI, if you go hydraulic, you can use any type of motor (horizontal, vertical, inline, rotary, etc.). Many folks with hydraulic machines don't realize that it doesn't take that much power to run the hydraulics. I have a Bobcat skidsteer loader, it weighs 3800 pounds and does well with only 25hp. The key though is to keep the engine in its ideal power band. I've seen the same concept on the Mudd Ox and other hydraulic machines. I also have a ZTR mower, its got a 27HP Kawasaki vertical engine, and as long as you are running it 3000 or so rpm, it does great. My point is to match your engine, to the hydraulic need. To do this you'll have to consult with your friends at the hydraulic shop. They can help with the pumps, drive motors, etc. I think that two drive motors is all that you really need. Mechanical drive will be more simple however. Whether its the differential system or a t20 system. My Swamp Fox weighs 800 pounds as it currently sits, and the 25 HP diesel is really more than it needs. Its a torque monster with power to spare throughout the power band. For an Argo sized vehicle you could get away with a 13HP diesel. More power is better though.

[nairb35]

The t-20 in an argo I think would be the ultimate setup.With a 30hp diesel motor.

[number1cas]

The Argo transmission you have is actually an open differential and you will loose power on the side that slips.

While that is sorta true, you don't lose power, you lose traction and all the rotation will go to the side with the least resistance, after about 1 hour at the controls, you learn to compensate for that and simply apply a little brake on the spinning side, transferring power to the traction side. Applying the brake does have the effect of slowing one side down and causes the engine to have to work harder to overcome it. You will not feel that effect if you are in a situation where one side is spinning, as braking a set of tires that have no traction will not rob power, only transfer that power to the grip side. You will feel it while travelling down a trail and turning, the sharper the turn the more you will feel it. Effectively YOU are the traction control or limited slip system. After several days at the controls you won't even realize that you are doing it anymore.

[Middlefork Miner]

Noel, I'm in Ca. not Alaska...(I wish)...grin...but we have some really steep & rugged mountains here as well. Thanks for the heads up on the Winsun diesel...that looks to be a really attractive option. I'm not sure if it has the power needed for a hydraulic drive, but it would certainly be a REALLY nice, compact, VERY fuel efficient & self contained unit. I'm gonna try & get some weight calculations done this weekend & then run the numbers by my hydraulics guy & see what he thinks...The hydraulic drive would certainly be the cats meow...gonna have to give it a little thought. What I think I may do is go ahead & use the tranny out of what I bought (if it's any good) to keep cost down, & this project from stalling out...If that's the case, I'll likely order one of those engines...

[chris davison]

If I was going to build another one I would go with trailing arm suspention and a hyd motor at each wheel
out side the body.
and go six wheels and be able to rotate the suspention up so the tires came out of the water for more water speed no drive shafts axles or chains as the suspention depresses only hyd. hoses move.A 70 hp diesel would do it but I would want 36 in tall tires for ground clearence.

[Noel Woods]

Sounds like you have some good concepts for your machine. Here is my two cents worth: Go with a diesel, I have a 25hp from A-1 Biofuel, photos are in the engine gallery, and there is footage on You-tube under: "Super Swamp Fox Diesel." Its a torque monster, direct injected, and very efficient (as in 8 hours run time per gallon.) I'd go with a T-20 for simplicity sakes, they are available, simple and rugged. Put a red spring clutch on the thing and it will surprise you with its capabilities. The Argo transmission you have is actually an open differential and you will loose power on the side that slips. I have always had 6 wheelers, but your terrain in Alaska may be so different that the 8 wheeled configuration may be best. Lastly, tracks are a sure thing. I recently saw a real life comparison of Adair Tracks vs. wheeled vehicles. Tracks win hands down.

[hydromike]

Why is it that the simplest ideas morph like this...

A lot of it has to do with all the great ideas on the Site, and all of the folks to lend knowledge and support. The common builds and restorations are safe territory, and they're a lot of fun to get a vintage machine up and running. On the other hand, a lot of folks like to put their own stamp on a project and either customize a stock machine, or build something from essentially scratch. It's the nature of all things mechanical. Build, test, destroy, improve....

Most of my ideas start simple, but I end up getting neck deep quite quickly with a cup of coffee in hand on a Saturday morning.

~m

[Middlefork Miner]

Well, dang...in the last couple weeks, looking here on 6X6 & reading about & looking at some of the different builds, the idea of a simple build got side tracked with a lot of new & different ideas. Watching the Mudd Ox videos got me to rethinking the hydro option that I had on my trackster...nice... Chris Davisons build of the Volkswagon powered build kinda tied a couple ideas together as has the Bushwacker II & as luck has it, there is a top notch hydraulic place a couple buildings down from where I work......Why is it that the simplest ideas morph like this...

[Beeman]

Make sure you have a dedicated space for it.. that seemed to be my problem

[Middlefork Miner]

It seems as you have your work cut out for you.

The good news is that I don't consider it work... this kind of stuff is fun...my only problem is cash flow...paying the mortgage & making the truck payment takes a huge chunk out of the available fun money.

[lewis]

It seems as you have your work cut out for you.

[Beeman]

I'd go EFI..

[Middlefork Miner]

lewis...What I bought was a "in the overgrown weeds" argo, with 6 flat weather rotted tires & the back of the tub hacked off because the last owner wanted to try making it into an orchard sprayer...when I started dis assembly, I found the skeletal remains of a skunk down in the engine compartment...
For whatever reason though there was a brand new torque converter on the old engine...the engine itself had me scratching my head, wondering who the heck would DO what they did...the head, at the exhaust port had been threaded ( a couple of times) & a pipe was wedged in there so they could clamp on flex tubing for the exhaust...I kid you not...the fuel line was a combination of fittings, steel tube & hose... third world engineering at its finest...the battery that had last been hooked up, was sitting in the passenger compartment & was attached to a solenoid switch via 2 cables bolted together...