The Arkansas Mud Hog

[Stonewall]

[QUOTE=6X6;84811]. You should be able to make a mechanical setup if the clutch is set inboard, and you could then lock the diff and still steer. You'll need a solid stationary clutch face, opposite, a clutch face that rotates with the drive input, and the movable clutch between the two solid to the output shaft. Alternatively would be a clutch and separate brake, brake outboard of the clutch which is essentially a simplified T-20 (although the clutch and brake switch based on forward or reverse) or a Baker hill Tranny, which may be easiest to use as a base for a design. [QUOTE=6X6;84811].

What you have just described is the reason that all modern bulldozers, excavators, and most other tracked equipment use hydraulic drive systems. The clutch/brake system is very difficult to operate unless it has been well designed like the t-20. I already have everything needed to steer in the axle. What I'm really worried about is wether or not having the engine in front like an argo will make it too front heavy, and how to keep the tracks in line with the bogies. Does anyone know the percentage of weight of the argo is in the front? And how well do the argos float with their engines in the front.

[chris davison]

Read the owners manual and all the dont dos like dont go in water on a windy day,or enter water fast, or brake hard going down hill. It made make my own.

[6X6]

What you have just described is the reason that all modern bulldozers, excavators, and most other tracked equipment use hydraulic drive systems. The clutch/brake system is very difficult to operate unless it has been well designed like the t-20. I already have everything needed to steer in the axle. What I'm really worried about is wether or not having the engine in front like an argo will make it too front heavy, and how to keep the tracks in line with the bogies. Does anyone know the percentage of weight of the argo is in the front? And how well do the argos float with their engines in the front.

Absolutely true. My only point is that it's not very complex, and think of the speed that equipment operates at. Hydrostatic isn't very efficient for any sort of speed, it does eat HP. It's a little more complex than what you are talking about doing, just thinking of ways to have true All wheel drive, not an open diff. You could use an air locker if you wish and just set it to unlock as soon as you start to steer.

Argo's float nose down. This helps with higher water speed, since rear tires are higher, not mostly submerged, and so paddle more efficiently. How nose-heavy you are would depend on where everything else was. Gas tank could go to the rear with battery, and if it's a wide enough tub you should float fine. They shoehorn a lot of motor into really small boats without sinking them. ( Ignoring operator error)
There are a LOT of Argo videos posted that shows them swimming, entering/exiting water etc..

[Stonewall]

So you think I will be ok with the engine in front and the radiator, gas tank, battery and other components in the rear? My donor engine will be a Chevy 305 unless I can get my hands on a diesel S-10 or something like that. I have also considered adding a bolt-on cab with heat and a/c. I am stuck on what to use for tracks. Steel tracks would be easier, but too heavy. I had origionally thought snowmobile tracks, but it would require at least 3 tracks per side which means at least 3 splices. I am afraid this setup may not handle 40 mph. Snowmobile tracks also do not have that midrib/backbone thing that keeps most tracks in line with the bogies when turning. I don't want to run the tracks off when I turn. Any suggestions on tracks?

[6X6]

So you think I will be ok with the engine in front and the radiator, gas tank, battery and other components in the rear? My donor engine will be a Chevy 305 unless I can get my hands on a diesel S-10 or something like that. I have also considered adding a bolt-on cab with heat and a/c.

My initial thought is that the tub will have to be large enough to fit everything that it will also float it at least reasonably well. But personally I'd be breaking out the scales, add up all the weight and see how it will balance out. (PITA, I know, since you have to figure in things like frame axles seats etc.. ) But Argo's are quite capable even with engine/tranny right up in the nose. (No Idea where the gas tank is to be honest)

I am stuck on what to use for tracks. Steel tracks would be easier, but too heavy. I had origionally thought snowmobile tracks, but it would require at least 3 tracks per side which means at least 3 splices. I am afraid this setup may not handle 40 mph. Snowmobile tracks also do not have that midrib/backbone thing that keeps most tracks in line with the bogies when turning. I don't want to run the tracks off when I turn. Any suggestions on tracks?

People have posted about using conveyor belt such as from a rock quarry, Don't know specs though, I've never even looked at making tracks. Snowmobile tracks are nice but 6 aren't going to be cheap, especially if you're not sure that they'll work. Of course 40mph will be cake for them. Maybe look at a currently produced track that you can use? Escargo, Adair, Argo and Recreatives all make tracks, though your machine's weight will probably keep you from using plastic tracks, though I could be wrong there, too.

[Stonewall]

People have posted about using conveyor belt such as from a rock quarry, Don't know specs though, I've never even looked at making tracks. Snowmobile tracks are nice but 6 aren't going to be cheap, especially if you're not sure that they'll work. Of course 40mph will be cake for them. Maybe look at a currently produced track that you can use? Escargo, Adair, Argo and Recreatives all make tracks, though your machine's weight will probably keep you from using plastic tracks, though I could be wrong there, too.

If I go with snowmobile tracks, they will be used ones. What I'm unsure about is 40 mph with conveyor belt splice joints. I don't plan on using any kind of amphib tracks unless that turns out to be the easiest route.

[chris davison]

Rock quarry belt would be tough enough but you need to drive with sprockets that belting is flat on the bottom it takes a crowned flat belt roller that is tentioned to get drive without slipping and sometimes needs to be tracked. Without being kept in the center on the bottom it would slip out from under you in turns. I only know of clipper and alligator lacing and dont think either one would hold up with a rock pushing thru it with 1000 lbs of weight pushing down.

[Stonewall]

Could I use some sort of plastic to make alignment/drive cleats on the inside of the belts?

[mudbug3]

stonwall


HDPE is the material used on the Adair tracks. This material is very durable.

[Stonewall]

Could I get that in chunks and have it CNC machined into T shaped pieces that could be bolted onto the belting?

[chris davison]

Plastic companys have it and can usually machine it also. any machine shop can. Mc Master carr also carries it.

[Stonewall]

I was watching some mudbog videos on youtube, and came across some buggys called "Fulltrack" buggys. I think that I'll use a track setup like these, as it looks simple and much easier to make. I will make them 2 feet wide, and I think I can use these axles for the idler wheels: Reliable Rubber Torsion Trailer Axle — 3500-Lb. Capacity, 30° Below Start Angle | Axle Kits | Northern Tool + Equipment

Here are some pictures of a "Fulltrack":
http://www.southernairboat.com/class...ltrack&cat=503

And a video: