A few of you have wondered how my plastic cleat upgrade to Grendel's (my Kid) steel tracks was done and how they perform. I didn't get to give them the torture test and try them last duck season due a wiring meltdown on my truck. But I have listed some recent videos of them. I now have a new truck and won't miss this coming duck season in the flooded ponds with it.
Originally I thought about rubber track pads, like tanks have, and then I saw some videos of the Adair tracks. I was thinking of totally changing the steel tracks for the Adair tracks, and also save some weight. But my budget was a little sparse. I spoke to them and got some tech advice then decided to try this first as an experiment. I made the track cleats from UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic from Interstate plastics. They ripped the 1" thick plastic to my specs and shipped it UPS in 5' lengths. I cut them to 12" lengths and shaped them to be bolted onto each of the steel tracks. (If you want more tech info PM me). Parts cost was under $600 (add labor).
I made the cleats 1x1-1/8x 12. 1" high to provide at least 1/2-3/4" of wear depth before the steel track turned edges would contact the ground. Also the track/ wheel well clearance at the front axles narrows and this size cleat still provided 1/2" clearance to the wheel wells. 1-1/8" wide to provide enough width to drill and countersink the attachment bolts without weakening the cleats. 12" +-wide to match the track shoes. Then both bottom side ends received a curve to ease contact with the ground. Attached with 2- GR8 1/4" bolts and lock nuts to each track (144 each side). This also lifted the Kid 3/4" for more ground clearance.
In drilling I made 2 discoveries; 1) the tracks are HARDENED steel, and 2) the rubber track bands have STEEL BAND CORES! So it takes awhile to accomplish this. And of course it can only be done with the tracks off of the Kid so it was a good time to change out bent side pieces, track segment connecting bolts and to grease the outer bearings!
First run on concrete was a DREAM! It was like spinning on oil on the concrete. Better than tires! Not the usual steel tracks gouging the concrete and stressing the track bands. So FULL speed on concrete! Even in turns! Loading up solid aluminum ramps seemed actually better than the steel tracks.
So far 2 thumbs up!
There was always rumors to not go into the water with the steel tracks as VERY heavy. Well, I have added foam filled PVC tubes to sides and rear but that is for water surface-area stability, like outriggers more than any real floatation gain. Well I went into the pond with tracks cleats and all and it did fine. About twice the propulsion of just tires, nothing fantastic but did seem to pick the front end up. (In one of the water videos I go into a deep hole)
In initial sand, marsh and light water test they did great. The cleats sink down further than the steel tracks did and give more pull, actually you then have 3 biting surfaces in the dirt. So, turning in sand was slightly slower than tracks alone, but understandable. In gravel mixed with dirt you have to slow down for turns as the cleats grab.
I don't get into snow but I don't doubt they would be any less effective than the steel tracks. After all, the tracks are not "open design", even though the cleats are added, the original track shoes provided an almost solid surface, albeit you may like wider tracks. You can work the plastic just as if it was wood. The plastic cleats could also be cut longer or wider to add some surface area also.
All in all a VERY successful experiment
, better than the dually experiment and I'm keeping them on all the time. Especially with the cost savings from other track alternatives. Time will tell how the cleats wear and if the Grade 8 bolts that are countersunk into the cleats, will hold up. I have been told that this type plastic wears like steel and I believe it. The UHMW plastic looks scratched but does not seem to be wearing at all. But this is only recreational use.
Good Luck with your Kid projects!
UHMW plastic supplier:Interstate Plastics
LTV Kid 8X8 with plastic cleats over steel tracks 1st drive. - YouTube
VIDEO0100 - YouTube
VIDEO0104 - YouTube
VIDEO0103 - YouTube
Originally I thought about rubber track pads, like tanks have, and then I saw some videos of the Adair tracks. I was thinking of totally changing the steel tracks for the Adair tracks, and also save some weight. But my budget was a little sparse. I spoke to them and got some tech advice then decided to try this first as an experiment. I made the track cleats from UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic from Interstate plastics. They ripped the 1" thick plastic to my specs and shipped it UPS in 5' lengths. I cut them to 12" lengths and shaped them to be bolted onto each of the steel tracks. (If you want more tech info PM me). Parts cost was under $600 (add labor).
I made the cleats 1x1-1/8x 12. 1" high to provide at least 1/2-3/4" of wear depth before the steel track turned edges would contact the ground. Also the track/ wheel well clearance at the front axles narrows and this size cleat still provided 1/2" clearance to the wheel wells. 1-1/8" wide to provide enough width to drill and countersink the attachment bolts without weakening the cleats. 12" +-wide to match the track shoes. Then both bottom side ends received a curve to ease contact with the ground. Attached with 2- GR8 1/4" bolts and lock nuts to each track (144 each side). This also lifted the Kid 3/4" for more ground clearance.
In drilling I made 2 discoveries; 1) the tracks are HARDENED steel, and 2) the rubber track bands have STEEL BAND CORES! So it takes awhile to accomplish this. And of course it can only be done with the tracks off of the Kid so it was a good time to change out bent side pieces, track segment connecting bolts and to grease the outer bearings!
First run on concrete was a DREAM! It was like spinning on oil on the concrete. Better than tires! Not the usual steel tracks gouging the concrete and stressing the track bands. So FULL speed on concrete! Even in turns! Loading up solid aluminum ramps seemed actually better than the steel tracks.
So far 2 thumbs up!
There was always rumors to not go into the water with the steel tracks as VERY heavy. Well, I have added foam filled PVC tubes to sides and rear but that is for water surface-area stability, like outriggers more than any real floatation gain. Well I went into the pond with tracks cleats and all and it did fine. About twice the propulsion of just tires, nothing fantastic but did seem to pick the front end up. (In one of the water videos I go into a deep hole)
In initial sand, marsh and light water test they did great. The cleats sink down further than the steel tracks did and give more pull, actually you then have 3 biting surfaces in the dirt. So, turning in sand was slightly slower than tracks alone, but understandable. In gravel mixed with dirt you have to slow down for turns as the cleats grab.
I don't get into snow but I don't doubt they would be any less effective than the steel tracks. After all, the tracks are not "open design", even though the cleats are added, the original track shoes provided an almost solid surface, albeit you may like wider tracks. You can work the plastic just as if it was wood. The plastic cleats could also be cut longer or wider to add some surface area also.
All in all a VERY successful experiment

Good Luck with your Kid projects!

UHMW plastic supplier:Interstate Plastics
LTV Kid 8X8 with plastic cleats over steel tracks 1st drive. - YouTube
VIDEO0100 - YouTube
VIDEO0104 - YouTube
VIDEO0103 - YouTube
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