LTV Kid 8X8 Plastic Cleat Upgrade to Factory Steel Tracks

[Southern Comfort Kid]

A few of you have wondered how my plastic cleat upgrade to Grendel's (my Kid) steel tracks was done and how they perform. I didn't get to give them the torture test and try them last duck season due a wiring meltdown on my truck. But I have listed some recent videos of them. I now have a new truck and won't miss this coming duck season in the flooded ponds with it.

Originally I thought about rubber track pads, like tanks have, and then I saw some videos of the Adair tracks. I was thinking of totally changing the steel tracks for the Adair tracks, and also save some weight. But my budget was a little sparse. I spoke to them and got some tech advice then decided to try this first as an experiment. I made the track cleats from UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic from Interstate plastics. They ripped the 1" thick plastic to my specs and shipped it UPS in 5' lengths. I cut them to 12" lengths and shaped them to be bolted onto each of the steel tracks. (If you want more tech info PM me). Parts cost was under $600 (add labor).

I made the cleats 1x1-1/8x 12. 1" high to provide at least 1/2-3/4" of wear depth before the steel track turned edges would contact the ground. Also the track/ wheel well clearance at the front axles narrows and this size cleat still provided 1/2" clearance to the wheel wells. 1-1/8" wide to provide enough width to drill and countersink the attachment bolts without weakening the cleats. 12" +-wide to match the track shoes. Then both bottom side ends received a curve to ease contact with the ground. Attached with 2- GR8 1/4" bolts and lock nuts to each track (144 each side). This also lifted the Kid 3/4" for more ground clearance.

In drilling I made 2 discoveries; 1) the tracks are HARDENED steel, and 2) the rubber track bands have STEEL BAND CORES! So it takes awhile to accomplish this. And of course it can only be done with the tracks off of the Kid so it was a good time to change out bent side pieces, track segment connecting bolts and to grease the outer bearings!

First run on concrete was a DREAM! It was like spinning on oil on the concrete. Better than tires! Not the usual steel tracks gouging the concrete and stressing the track bands. So FULL speed on concrete! Even in turns! Loading up solid aluminum ramps seemed actually better than the steel tracks.
So far 2 thumbs up!

There was always rumors to not go into the water with the steel tracks as VERY heavy. Well, I have added foam filled PVC tubes to sides and rear but that is for water surface-area stability, like outriggers more than any real floatation gain. Well I went into the pond with tracks cleats and all and it did fine. About twice the propulsion of just tires, nothing fantastic but did seem to pick the front end up. (In one of the water videos I go into a deep hole)

In initial sand, marsh and light water test they did great. The cleats sink down further than the steel tracks did and give more pull, actually you then have 3 biting surfaces in the dirt. So, turning in sand was slightly slower than tracks alone, but understandable. In gravel mixed with dirt you have to slow down for turns as the cleats grab.

I don't get into snow but I don't doubt they would be any less effective than the steel tracks. After all, the tracks are not "open design", even though the cleats are added, the original track shoes provided an almost solid surface, albeit you may like wider tracks. You can work the plastic just as if it was wood. The plastic cleats could also be cut longer or wider to add some surface area also.

All in all a VERY successful experiment , better than the dually experiment and I'm keeping them on all the time. Especially with the cost savings from other track alternatives. Time will tell how the cleats wear and if the Grade 8 bolts that are countersunk into the cleats, will hold up. I have been told that this type plastic wears like steel and I believe it. The UHMW plastic looks scratched but does not seem to be wearing at all. But this is only recreational use.

Good Luck with your Kid projects!

UHMW plastic supplier:Interstate Plastics

LTV Kid 8X8 with plastic cleats over steel tracks 1st drive. - YouTube
VIDEO0100 - YouTube
VIDEO0104 - YouTube
VIDEO0103 - YouTube

[CROSSBOW]

Nice Videos !!

[trevorakm1]

Nice job with the cleats. I always thought these kids were bigger but look to be about the size of a mud ox. I like the 6 wheelers better than the 8's but this is probably my favorite 8 wheeler. This cleat thing might lend itself well to the argo supertracks. if anything might ease some of the strain on the chains and bearings. One of the benefits to the adair track system is it's ability to slide laterally.

[billr]

Nice job!
I'm thinking of going with the UHMW cleats but I would really like to go with black UHMW rather than the burgandy. I see that Interstate Plastics carries a black virgin UHMW that doesn't read to be as durable as the burgandy. Did you compare the black with the burgandy and get any info from Interstate on the two? I only plan to build up my KID to look military and use it mostly for parades etc. What do you think, will the black work for me?
Thanks,
Bill

[Coop]

Great vids. I'm jealous, I want one of these machines really bad, just haven't found one within reasonable driving distance from me. It seemed to float very well. Great job on the cleats.

Coop

[Southern Comfort Kid]

Black versus Burgundy UHMW cleats

I think for your purpose of slow speed parades the black will be fine. I wanted a black color but took the more durable Burgundy so I wouldn't have to redo them anytime soon (I hope). I'll be interested to hear how the black holds up, especially for cuts and scratches. If attached like I did at the ends of the cleats they still flex in the middle of the cleat when encountering an obstruction. Overall you will love the performance on concrete/ asphalt! There is still some track slap against the wheelwells at times due to the small clearance at the front axles.

My next experiment - I think I will pull the engine after hunting season and attempt a change to a small Caterpiller C1.1 3 cyl diesel I recently obtained, or rebuild the engine.

[billr]

Thanks for the info. I plan to get the black and put it on sometime in January. I'll let you know how it turns out and holds up.

[kyle_b_3]

Hi All,

I posted on another thread regarding my track issues and I’m still looking for tricks to mount them easier. My friends that helped me the first time said they would never return. I was told to use the Carlisle tru power 23x8.50-12, but have notice others using a small tire. What tire size do most people use with the tracks?

I have notice that the rubber holding the tracks is starting to fail. My thought is I will replace all the rubber. I believe I have found a shop that can manufacture it, but wanted to ask a question to the KID 8x8 experts first. I have been a fan of the plastic cleats for a while now. I’m wondering why you elected to go through the steel and not circle in the track plate that exposes the rubber. I have drilled the plates on the track and the hardened steel takes a lot of time to get through.

My thought was to have the manufacture of the rubber strip put a hole off center of the exposed rubber on the track plate (i.e., circle in metal plate that exposes the rubber). This would result in the bolt sitting inside the “spike” that encapsulates the tire. I was thinking this would save a lot of labor on my part. I figure I could put a harden washer on the back so the nut doesn’t rip into the rubber. Does anyone see any issue with this approach?

I live in Canada and if I go with Interstate Plastics for the UHMW cleat it will cost me a fortune in fees and taxes to get it over the boarder. One of the parents of a kid I coach is in the plastics industry and said they could provide me some guidance if I can get the specs of the cleat. I have read the dimensions and viewed the videos, but I’m still a little unclear. I’m not really sure how to PM Southern Comfort Kid as I’m new to actually posting, I’m more of a read. Please let me know and I will do so.

Any help would be appreciated,

Kyle

[Noel Woods]

Nice videos. I'm building a large custom machine that's similar in size to a KIDD. Looks like that beefy machine performed very well with the addition of those cleats. I have a Bobcat with steel tracks and it destroys everything it comes into contact with, so unless I really need the tracks, they stay off the machine. I know KIDDs have a similar issue with steel tracks, but you have come up with an excellent work around.

[Southern Comfort Kid]

UHMW Track Cleats

Hi All,

I posted on another thread regarding my track issues and I’m still looking for tricks to mount them easier. My friends that helped me the first time said they would never return. I was told to use the Carlisle tru power 23x8.50-12, but have notice others using a small tire. What tire size do most people use with the tracks?

I have notice that the rubber holding the tracks is starting to fail. My thought is I will replace all the rubber. I believe I have found a shop that can manufacture it, but wanted to ask a question to the KID 8x8 experts first. I have been a fan of the plastic cleats for a while now. I’m wondering why you elected to go through the steel and not circle in the track plate that exposes the rubber. I have drilled the plates on the track and the hardened steel takes a lot of time to get through.

My thought was to have the manufacture of the rubber strip put a hole off center of the exposed rubber on the track plate (i.e., circle in metal plate that exposes the rubber). This would result in the bolt sitting inside the “spike” that encapsulates the tire. I was thinking this would save a lot of labor on my part. I figure I could put a harden washer on the back so the nut doesn’t rip into the rubber. Does anyone see any issue with this approach?

I live in Canada and if I go with Interstate Plastics for the UHMW cleat it will cost me a fortune in fees and taxes to get it over the boarder. One of the parents of a kid I coach is in the plastics industry and said they could provide me some guidance if I can get the specs of the cleat. I have read the dimensions and viewed the videos, but I’m still a little unclear. I’m not really sure how to PM Southern Comfort Kid as I’m new to actually posting, I’m more of a read. Please let me know and I will do so.

Any help would be appreciated,

Kyle

Hi Kyle, sorry for the response delay. I sold my Kid but I'll try to help you. I still have my Hoot with Adair Tracks (UHMW plastic). Yes I think the proper tires for the steel tracks are the 23-850-12 with AG tread like Carlisle.

If you do not have any steel tracks already on the Kid I would try to go with a set of Adair tracks as much easier to mount and lighter, but watch the clearance issues on the front axles. I only went with drilling the cleats and adding UHMW as a low- buck experiment to the adair tracks. My labor $0, parts about $600 compared to about 3grand. And I liked the way the experiment turned out!

Oh by the way Get a pair of HD ratchet straps to pull those tracks together. and let the air out the tires to about 2-3psi, I used to do it by myself! either drive the Kid onto the tracks or put it up on jack stands.

With Adair you could go with larger tires but will also need spacers to move the tires out away from the body for the adair cleats to "wrap around", then add skirtboard to keep the mud and water off of you!! Contact Adair he can send you some samples of different cleat designs based on size and type tire going over, then you can figure clearances(tightest on front axle).

Yes it's tough to drill the steel tracks, I bought bulkpacks of hardened drill bits online, working up in size from 1/8", topping out at 1/4". My bolts were under the "spike". All leftover factory Kid parts are now in the hands of some guys in St Amant, LA, Jon Sigur PM me for the ph number. He probably has the rubber but may not know it (truckloads of stuff).

If you want to make your own maybe could use 3/8 to 1/2 "skirtboard" but the originals have a braided steel core (I found that out when drilling holes for the bolts to go thru) probably to keep from band stretching, so I don't think you could match that.

My original plan was to put smaller UHMW or rubber rectangles in that center recessed area of each steel cleat like WW2 tanks had, but could not figure how to attach or glue them on so I settled on the bolt-on cleats I made. Rubber would not spin like the plastic does.

The UHMW for the cleats at Interstate is in sheets I think I got 1 or 1 1/4" thickness. For small $ I had them rip it to the width I needed and cut in 5'1" lengths for UPS shipping restrictions. It works like wood! I used my miter saw to cut 12" lengths for the tracks. The 5'1" figures in 1/8" for each saw kerf cut. Then I used my belt sander to round the ends and used 1/4" drill and 1" wood bore (do that 1 first) to enable countersinking the bolt head with flat washer. Use all Grade 8 hardware (find a local bolt wholesaler or bolts will cost a $fortune at your hardware store). Making the cleats was the easiest part, just order a little extra to experiment.

In conclusion this was my winter job for about 2 months, 1 year but I loved the finished product! Good Luck!