kohlers motor identifying

[ARGOJIM]

You'll have to turn the crankshaft down so it will accept one of the common clutches, I just had the same issue with a N.O.S. Tecumseh.

[thebuggyman1]

it has a 1 3/8s shaft....

The shaft is probably a 1 7/16", it was a very common size and that's what my Kohler started out as.
Turning it down to 1 1/8" is your best bet....going to 1" may weaken it too much. That's too bad, because the 1" clutches are much cheaper. I paid $400 for the CVTech PowerBloc 80 I bought. Here's a comet 1195 302469A - 1195 Series Drive Clutch for Recreatives Ind Max ATVs | ATV Parts | MFG Supply and the powerbloc IBC Cvtech PowerBlock Drive Clutch 1 1 8" Bore Replace Comet Duster Salsbury 780 | eBay

[thenewguy]

how'd you guys go about turning the crank down

remove it form motor and send to machine shop?

also anyone have a bad starter for this motor.. i got mine to work great but dumb me over tighten the casing after taking it apart and cleaning and greasing it up... so i need part of the case to fix mine....

[thebuggyman1]

Make sure you take the crank to a machine shop that does engines...The cranks can be a little tricky to turn down and it should be done by someone with some experience.
You may also want to buy the clutch first and take with you, that way the key way and clutch fit end up right.

[thenewguy]

Make sure you take the crank to a machine shop that does engines...The cranks can be a little tricky to turn down and it should be done by someone with some experience.
You may also want to buy the clutch first and take with you, that way the key way and clutch fit end up right.

thanks for your advise

[thenewguy]

would it be dumb to run a jack shaft setup to run the same size crank and then get a 1 inch clutch because gears are cheaper then clutches?

[thebuggyman1]

You have to remember the RPM that the motor runs at.......If you have the room for a jackshaft, and don't mind the inherent losses, I'd go with a V-belt/pulley setup instead of chain.

[thenewguy]

You have to remember the RPM that the motor runs at.......If you have the room for a jackshaft, and don't mind the inherent losses, I'd go with a V-belt/pulley setup instead of chain.

Why would you suggest v belt instead of chains?

[thebuggyman1]

Speed of the chain. Roller Chain, Oven Pin Chain, Agriculture Chain | Diamond Chain - Indianapolis, Indiana Diamond recommends a lube oil pump for high speed chain drives, and this will cause a lot of oil sling (big mess).
The other option is what motorcycles have gone to "O-ring" chain. #530 would replace #50, but it does have a wider outside dimension. Some motorcycles have also gone to belt drives. Talk to a motorcycle expert and I'm sure they can let you know the advantages/drawbacks of each.
On the other hand, I've seen hundreds of industrial drives where high speed reliability is important, and not a one has ever been chain. Usually they will use multiple "V" belts for high horsepower applications.
Also consider the chains "chordal" action, when the chain rises on the tooth and then falls to the groove. This is why a chain must not be too tight. If the chain is too loose, it will skip teeth/ wear tooth tips off etc. The faster the chain is moving, the harder it will be to have it tensioned properly at all times.
I can think of lots of reasons why a V-belt would work better, and only one drawback....it could slip if it got wet. But, the clutch belt will do that also, so you're not really any worse off......

[thenewguy]

still thinking about how to make this work on the cheap end.. my dad had an idea like this and then happen to run across this again on a go kart forums.. anyone see something like this as a bad idea turn the crank down a little short and then make an adapter to fit a 1ich clutch?

[thebuggyman1]

It probably would work just fine......BUT, I wouldn't trust the set screws to hold it on. I would want the bolt holding the clutch on to go through the adapter into the crank.

[thenewguy]

It probably would work just fine......BUT, I wouldn't trust the set screws to hold it on. I would want the bolt holding the clutch on to go through the adapter into the crank.

thats what i was thinking little more beef but going to 1inch might be hard to get the bolt threw out....

[amphibious drew]

That design sort of concerns me. I would think between the torque that engine puts out, and the additional leverage on the crank bearings due to how far out the clutch will be sitting, you would be risking epic failure of aforementioned bearings.

[Tomo]

hi ,
Bang for buck would be a new crank with a 1 inch end [if available in that size }
A new crank will tighten up the tolerances on the rod and main journals
NB If u choose to go this route I would measure up the journal bores in the block and front cover They r expensive to repair if worn out

tomo

[thenewguy]

Thanks guys for the concern I was considering a bearing at the end of the shaft for support. Not sure of wha route ill be going if I even use it