Electronic Fuel Pump needed

[Toys4Me]

Take the carb apart and make sure the float needle is attached to the float. I was putting my carb back together on my briggs and the float needle came off the float and fell the the float needle hole. With it not hooked to the float it created very hard starting conditions due to extra pressure on the needle.

[Dozerlarry]

place an inline fuel cut off valve real close to the carb and after you have it running and want to shut down for a while turn the valve off and let it set for a while. Turn the valve back on after a while and see if it'll start. This should settle the back siphon theory one way or the other.

[Tomo]

hi Wheeler ,
Is the motor out of the warranty period
If no return carb
If yes clean out carb ,
Does the float, float in a jar of fuel eg holed???
set float level
The needle and seat [where the float is connected to ] blow out with compressed air and carby cleaner [this turns fuel on/off ]
remove all jets emulsion tubes etc blast with carb cleaner and mild compressed air

tomo

[wheeler]

Buggyman, Good idea. I have not checked that end of the fuel line yet. I will do that tomorrow. Larry it's the opposite - Pre started engine when warm starts great, cold don't wanna start unless throttle pulled in full.

[wheeler]

Tomo - yes it's out of warranty. And after I look at the line going from the mechanical pump to the carb to see if that is plugged. I will investigate checking out the carb. Thanks

[wheeler]

Buggyman, I checked the line going from the mechanical pump to the carb and it is free and flows good. I sprayed a very little starting fluid into the carb and it starts right up no problem. So it's gotta be something with the carb. I am a little hesitant to remove the carb being it is brand new. There is only one adjustment on the carb that I know of and that is the idle speed adjustment. If I do take the carb off I would like to do some research before tearing into it.

[ARGOJIM]

It's very possible that, like Jim wrote, the fuel is just boiling out of the carb from the engine heat. My 16 is hard to start after it sits more than a week and has excessive crank time to fill the bowl.
Anyone who has had carb problems on the trail can attest to how hot the carb gets when running.
You may want to wait a couple weeks and see if the cooler temps help at all.

[ARGOJIM]

Another heat related problem may be the muffler itself, if it is mounted high and about 6 inshes off the carb, a secondary heat shield may help with the carb body temps.

[wheeler]

ArgoJim. I did that when I installed the engine. I put a heat shield on it way back before problems with starting happened.

[LarryW]

Does the governor hold it wide open when its not running? I have had a few garden tractors with an old Briggs 14hp cast iron and my 14hp cast iron Kohler both won't start unless the throttle is on idle. Once it starts only tuns on idle. Thinking extra pressure from butter fly acts like choke sucking more fuel. Actually idle with butterfly not just throttle control. Maybe you can see if it is or not and try that. I would think the fuel bulb would eliminate the fuel evaporation theory.

[thebuggyman1]

I'd like to rule out the pulse pump and pulse line first.
Set up a small tank, or plastic cup to gravity feed fuel directly to the carb. The carb float bowl holds a small amount of fuel and if it is full the motor should start. Installing the primer bulb may have only pressurized the line to the pulse pump......maybe not the line from pump to carb?????

You should also unhook the pulse line or it may spray fuel all over the place when the motor cranks.

Buggyman, I checked the line going from the mechanical pump to the carb and it is free and flows good. I sprayed a very little starting fluid into the carb and it starts right up no problem. So it's gotta be something with the carb. I am a little hesitant to remove the carb being it is brand new. There is only one adjustment on the carb that I know of and that is the idle speed adjustment. If I do take the carb off I would like to do some research before tearing into it.

I never suspected a problem with the line between the pulse pump and the carb. Having a blocked PRESSURIZED line is highly unlikely. It is far more probable that the vacuum (pulse) line to the engine would have blockage or is pinched. This would cause a weak pulse that may not allow fuel to be pumped at cranking speed, but after running would pump enough fuel.
It is also possible that a defective fuel pump would cause the same problem.

Again, My advise is to rig up a gravity feed to the carb.

If your engine runs well, has good power, idles well, etc. It isn't going to be a carb problem.

[thebuggyman1]

Another thought comes to mind......remembering that your new motor has the fuel shutoff solenoid, but your old motor did not.
1) make sure the solenoid has power at key start position.
2) make sure it is not getting a low voltage during start (not enough to open it up), just powering a solenoid is not necessarily good enough to activate it.
You could use a jumper wire from battery+ directly to it for testing, or just unscrew it and use the plug off your old carb.

[wheeler]

Been real busy for the last month so haven't been able to post lately. I found out I may have diabetes and have been out of work for about two months. My feet go numb and they think it's diabetic neuropathy. Anyway I found the problem with my six not starting. It was the choke butterfly plate! After checking the carb I noticed that the choke was not closing all the way. I adjusted it so it closes nice and tight and now it starts with one turn of the key. After all the other stuff I did, it was as simple as that. Guess that's the way it goes. Thanks for all the advice everybody.

[LarryW]

Sorry to hear about you health. Seems like lots of people are getting diabetes. Hopefully its just an adjustment of your diet.

Thanks for the follow up. Glad you got it fixed.

[wheeler]

Thanks Larry
I figured for awhile I might be a candidate for it but never really wanted to find out. Oh well, such is life. Hopefully your right, just and adjustment on diet.