18hp vanguard... Video attached PLEASE HELP!!!

[MikeyM]

Hey all, picked up a 98 max IV for a buddy of mine a couple weekends back, and am having a hard time getting it to rev smoothly. Video gives explanation, but incase it doesn't work...here's the issue.

When idling and NO choke, it almost acts like it's flooding out. It loads up, then revs up. At about half choke, no issues at all, idles fine, revs fine etc. whether it's warmed up or not, half choke seems to be the sweet spot. With the air filter off, and NO choke I can see gas spitting out of the top of the carb when it sputters.

I've replaced the plugs, checked the valves, and took apart the carb spraying every jet, cleaned out fuel bowl etc. saw nothing really that would prevent it from running right.

Could anyone shed some light on this?

http://vid45.photobucket.com/albums/f81/fireguyeng_11/479DDC55-8233-4661-93C0-BB53B33902D0_zpseejzhntg.mp4

[Rudy_Magnum]

First word of advice, throw away that spray carb cleaner. How is that supposed to clean anything? Get some proper carb dip, take the whole carb apart, soak all metal parts with no plastic or rubber parts left in (unless you're replacing them and don't care), let it all soak for minimum 24 hours (you can stir it every once in a while), when you take it out, use compressed air to blow out all the passageways, then put it back together with a brand new carb kit.

Yes, it costs more. Yes, its more work. But, you'll have an engine that runs properly. Don't band aid fix it. I've learned my lessons with carbs, and dip and rebuild is the only way to do it and have your engine fire up and run right away.

[Nubs]

Yep!

First word of advice, throw away that spray carb cleaner. How is that supposed to clean anything? Get some proper carb dip, take the whole carb apart, soak all metal parts with no plastic or rubber parts left in (unless you're replacing them and don't care), let it all soak for minimum 24 hours (you can stir it every once in a while), when you take it out, use compressed air to blow out all the passageways, then put it back together with a brand new carb kit.

Yes, it costs more. Yes, its more work. But, you'll have an engine that runs properly. Don't band aid fix it. I've learned my lessons with carbs, and dip and rebuild is the only way to do it and have your engine fire up and run right away.

[amphibious drew]

On a side note, no matter how many times you clean the carb, if the fuel line is deteriorating, it will re-clog again. I recently replaced all my line with blue 1/4" ID line from amazon. $17 for 25 feet and you can see the gas flowing through the lines. Plus it's not supposed to get hard and deteriorate like black line.

[MikeyM]

Awesome, thanks for the responses. I will go out tonight and buy a carb soak kit and soak it. At lunch, I will go out an pick up a rebuild kit

[Deedeelin1]

The guy I bought my 2002 conquest told me that it has never seen ethanol, only fuel with no corn. It cost me right at $4.00 a gallon. Just a thought that if you are going to that much trouble of cleaning it out the right way that you might want to go one step more. Just a thought from someone still learning.

[Nubs]

That's a fact! Tecumseh had a recall some yrs ago where they had to replace the fuel lines because the ethanol was eating up the inside of the fuel line and as Drew said, the fuel would turn to jelly in the carb.

[wiggy]

On a side note, no matter how many times you clean the carb, if the fuel line is deteriorating, it will re-clog again. I recently replaced all my line with blue 1/4" ID line from amazon. $17 for 25 feet and you can see the gas flowing through the lines. Plus it's not supposed to get hard and deteriorate like black line.

Hi
Do you have a link to this fuel line? sorry to but in. I need to replace oneon one of my Max II
Richie

[Stoneyridgeboy]

Add Startron to your fuel. It's what a lot of the small engine guys are using around here. It neutralized the ethanol. Great stuff. I use it in all my equipment.

[MikeyM]

Well here's the update. Got the chem-tool bucket, took off the carb and threw it in there. In the mean time, removed wasp nest of side of heads, cleaned cover, cleaned intake tube, then went inside and had dinner and watched tv for a bit....aprox 2 hours. Came back out, and was amazed and how spot less the carb was! Looked like new!!!!

Put it all back together, and still runs the same So off came the top of the carb to check the bowl, to see if there was any gunk from the fuel....none, BUT, noticed the float was rubbing against the inside of the carb. So "adjusted a bit" runs better but not entirely there yet. Convinced it's the float. So tomorrow, I'll go grab one....fingers crossed!

[Tomo]

hi ,
See if the float actually floats in fuel [12 hrs approx. ] Remove float and shake if u can hear no fuel inside u r good to go .
Adjust float to spec height
[assuming tank ,lines ,filter clean etc ]
fuel pump operation I replace with a known good unit. This issue does not sound like a pump issue
Things u can check is pulse line to pump in new condition
Check the breather gauze/vent in the pump
Check the pcv valve disc is working ok [without this the pulses do not go well to the fuel pump ,can cause erratic operation ]

Compression check around [8 cranks per cylinder ] approx. 130 psi ,cylinders should not vary more than 10%
A compression check is only a basic check as the engine has a decompression valve . Without this the cylinders will read higher .
Inline Spark checker checks for spark strength [coil and lead condition ] cheap to buy Weak/ dead spark is often a problem
Leak down check
Checks for worn
rings/bore,,
blown head gasket
leaking valves

tomo

[Nubs]

2 hrs is not enough time, needs a full 24hrs. then every orifice chased with fine wire and blown out with compressed air and a blow gun with a small tip to assure enough velocity.

[amphibious drew]

Hi
Do you have a link to this fuel line? sorry to but in. I need to replace oneon one of my Max II
Richie

I'm only on a phone as my wife never let's me use the laptop, so posting links sucks. eBay has it too. Just search "blue fuel line." You need 1/4 id line. On a side note, I buy fuel filters in bulk online as well as cheap pulse pumps. Amazon and eBay are great places to get universal parts way cheaper than the tractor or auto stores.

[Nubs]

Amazon.com: Parts Unlimited Blue Polyurethane Fuel Line - 1/4in. I.D. x 25ft. A37330: Automotive

[amphibious drew]

Amazon.com: Parts Unlimited Blue Polyurethane Fuel Line - 1/4in. I.D. x 25ft. A37330: Automotive

Yup, that's who I got it through.