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what should i do about engine?

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  • #46




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    • #47
      hmm, looks like you got it off, good job.

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      • #48
        i got the engine off but not the clutch
        if you look close you can see the case
        sorry for the crappy pics

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        • #49
          oh, I guess I should of looked closer. I thought it was on a bench.

          I didnt want to say anything because you can crack it easy. But, I have got them off before by putting something like a heavy peice of thin steel or ??? in between the clutch and engine on both sides. Closer to crankshaft the better. LIke it should touch the crank. Then set something up for the engine to hang by them(steel things). So the weight of the engine is held up by the clutch. Now put a bolt in the threads of the crank a long ways and make sure its a bolt you dont want anymore and hit it. This has always worked for me but you have to be real careful about ruinning the clutch. Also when it goes the engine will drop so if you want your engine becareful. I didnt want to say anything because it is a hillbilly method and you should just get a pulley or as 6x6 said maybe take it somewhere.

          Some clutches have thread in the inside of the bore. That is for a special puller that threads into the bore and then has a threaded bolt the pushes on the crank.

          Also maybe you can make a puller held on by those three bolts. A piece of metal with the 3 bolt holes and then in the middle have a fine threaded nut weld to it. Then thread the bolt in on the crank. Carefull not ruin crank. Id put a junk socket or something in the bore backward to protect the crank. That should pull the clutch off.

          How ever you do it, good luck
          Larry

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          • #50
            hmmm, i guess i'll try to some up with something

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            • #51
              i got it off with a puller, now how do i get the keyway square thing out?

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              • #52
                Either grab a punch and knock it out or use a pair of pliers and pull it out.

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                • #53
                  the stupid thing is stuck in there real good

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                  • #54
                    if you have a real small wood working chissel you might be able to get under 1 side of the key and tap it with a hammer
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                    • #55
                      I have had some bad ones but man yours is really stuck it sounds. I have used screwdrivers and hammer, although the screwdriver manufacture dont recommend it. Make sure its a craftsman, Oh dont forget to wear your safty glasses.

                      You can buy new key stock at tractor supply for real cheap. Just cut it off at the length you can use. I think they also sell the little pre-cut ones too but seems it was alot cheaper to by the 12" one. They do have differant sizes so make sure you measure your width before you go if you do by a new one.

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                      • #56
                        it took a 1/4" Hole with a punch :O

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                        • #57
                          now the stupid belt is diagonal!!! grrr

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                          • #58
                            these engine bolts are some hard bolts to get to

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                            • #59
                              now i really need help
                              i started it the first time and it took off into the woods so i tackled it to grab the killswitch before it hit another tree. the thing wont sit still and idle. also, when it is going it wont turn

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                              • #60
                                Runaway

                                These are fun, aren't they? Don't worry, once you get through these "Growing Pains", it'll go much better. If it's taking off, either your engine is idling too high, the CVT Belt (From Motor to tranny) is too tight, or your Drive Clutch (The one on the engine) is damaged or set very wrong. (Would be loss of tension on springs or even broken springs). Also, if the belt is too wide so the Drive clutch can't open far enough that it's not pressed against both sheaves (sides of clutch) that would do it, too. Since it's a new engine, my guess is Idle or belt tension. Both easy to check, and correct. Belt should have around 1.5" of deflection when clutches are disengaged.

                                Edit: Seemed high, most sled manufacturers list 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" I think the extra is only for easier shifting, but the less you can get away with (no less than 1 1/8") the better, especially for the low end power.
                                Last edited by 6X6; 12-24-2008, 12:21 AM.
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