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1-1/8 to 1 Inch Clutch Question

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  • 1-1/8 to 1 Inch Clutch Question

    Hey fella's, i have a primary and a secondary clutch setup from a 2004 Argo Avenger but they are for1-1/8 shaft so just wondering if anyone has made a spacer to fit a 1-1/8 on a 1 inch shaft?

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    Last edited by eightwheeler; 01-28-2009, 07:43 PM.
    '99 Conquest 104hp turbocharged intercooled EFI Chevy Sprint conversion
    "Argo 8x8's only" type of guy
    "old school Argo expert"

  • #2
    figured it out on my own, machined down the leftover clutch i had on my Magnum 18 which was a threaded bore down to 1-1/8 and cut a 2-1/2 length keyway into it up to the threads, now my Avenger clutch is on my old Kohler Magnum 18hp
    '99 Conquest 104hp turbocharged intercooled EFI Chevy Sprint conversion
    "Argo 8x8's only" type of guy
    "old school Argo expert"

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    • #3
      not to sure, but i am going to the local machine shop to see if they can make one for me, i am replacing the engine in my dads argo 8x8, 1983 model, had a single 18 hp techumse engine in it, we are putting a 20 hp v-twin into it, same problem 1 1/8 shaft on old engine 1 inch shaft on new engine
      mud and ice

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      • #4
        i'm sure they will help you no problem, my machinist made my spacer in half an hour so i dont think it will be expensive for you either
        '99 Conquest 104hp turbocharged intercooled EFI Chevy Sprint conversion
        "Argo 8x8's only" type of guy
        "old school Argo expert"

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        • #5
          clutch adapters,,

          what did he "charge"? who is he, alot,or a few would like to know, i'm sure

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          • #6
            Oh, he's my in shop machinist, he charged me an XL Tim Hortons Coffee, i was there when he did it, it was really easy to do
            '99 Conquest 104hp turbocharged intercooled EFI Chevy Sprint conversion
            "Argo 8x8's only" type of guy
            "old school Argo expert"

            Comment


            • #7
              i got my spacer made and it only cost me 10$ fits like charm and causes no problems, just had to give the id deminsion, od dimension and the length, he even cut the key way out for me. all i did was test fit on both the crank and clutch, all was good, then i used bearing retainer on the outside and slipped into the clutch, cleaned up any residual, made new key 1/4 by 5/16 and slide onto engine, works great, alot cheaper than a new clutch.
              mud and ice

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              • #8
                Good deal. I was worried about the stress on the key, thinking it would be an 1/8 taller, but you're right, just a 1/16. Plus it's glued in.
                To Invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. (Thomas Edison)

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                • #9
                  I'll be going through this soon. My TRA secondary is a 1" bore and the T-20 is 7/8" so I'll be making a spacer as well. Yes Roger, key will be only 1/16" taller, but I am still concerned that under high load (This is for my Racer) it can take a slight angle and start getting gouged by the corners of the shaft and clutch keyway, getting to the point it can shear. I think I will TIG it into the spacer so the key cannot try to cock to one side, since I can't really weld the spacer to the clutch or shaft well enough.
                  Attex 295 Wild Wolf: sigpic My Runner
                  Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
                  Attex Super Chief - Sold.

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                  • #10
                    as long as everthing is tight( 0.002 to 0.005 thousands of an inch) you do not have to worry about the key. we have done this engine dampaners and also pulleys on combines, the only thing that you have to do is wether the spacer fits tight to clutch or shaft, always put the bearing retainer on the tightest fit, then let set up over night.almost forgot, make sure that your new key is tight fitting and as long as possible
                    Last edited by dgh110; 02-14-2009, 01:03 AM.
                    mud and ice

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                    • #11
                      Hi everyone. I have a secondary that is wobbling. It appears some space was created between the shaft and the clutch to cause this. Do you think I can just have a sleeve made to make up the difference and it will be tight again?

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