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  • Popsicle sticks

    I want to convert my t20 to the popsicle style so I can have better control. Does anyone have the pieces or measurements so I can make my own or buy some off someone? Thanks.
    "Racing is life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting."

  • #2
    I think I might have some of the stuff you need. You'll obviously need two popsicle sticks, the 4 eye bolts and nuts that hold them snug, and you can either get the case halves with the pins in them, or just drill and press pins (that the popsicle sticks rotate on) into each case half.
    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
    sigpic

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    • #3
      t-20.jpgYou can just add shoulder bolts to the existing "u" channels. I do this on every one I have, and it works great.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by thebuggyman1 View Post
        [ATTACH=CONFIG]10690[/ATTACH]You can just add shoulder bolts to the existing "u" channels. I do this on every one I have, and it works great.
        Not trying to hijack... Do you have to do anything special to add those shoulder bolts? I remember reading a post where whipper says something about spot facing the cases at 5 degrees or something. Just wondering.

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        • #5
          The 2 plungers are at 4 1/2 degrees to the case half......
          Whipper is a machinist by trade, and has all the cool machines to play with, and I'm sure his t-20's are very precise.

          I take a far more crude approach. It's fast, easy and does work well.
          First I drill the u channels in a drill press with a 1/8" bit. This hole will be at 90 degrees, the 4 1/2 degrees only applies to the case half. The hole needs to be centered between the plunger bolt holes and spaced off the back allowing enough room to be enlarged to 3/8" later.
          Then bolt the u channel to 2 plungers and place on case half. The bolts to plungers are in a slotted hole, so be careful to center them, and make sure it's all aligned right.
          Next, I use an extra long drill bit in a cordless drill to put the pilot hole in the case. I put a washer behind the u channel to space it off the case and eliminate the possibility of binding and use the holes (previously drilled) through the u channel as the guide.
          Once the 1/8" pilot holes are drilled, the case halves' holes can be enlarged then tapped, and the U channels can be drilled to 3/8".
          The shoulder bolt is 3/8" dia. x 1 1/4" long shoulder and 5/16 thread.
          Attached Files

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          • #6
            Awesome, thanks for the info... hate the 'clanking' of the u channels.

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            • #7
              Drilling the holes in the channels first,then installing them and using them as the "jig" to get the holes in the cases in the correct location and at the proper angle is a great idea. Thanks Jim!

              Joe.
              sigpic

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              • #8
                an alternate solution that eliminates about 80% of the slop in the linkage. You can add the piviot pins to make it even better than the origional popsicle sticks. Oll the items are from Mc Master Carr.

                Acta non verba

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by jerseybigfoot View Post
                  an alternate solution that eliminates about 80% of the slop in the linkage. You can add the piviot pins to make it even better than the origional popsicle sticks. Oll the items are from Mc Master Carr.

                  Smart guy. I'd listen to him.
                  l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

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                  • #10
                    How does removing the slop in the linkages help? I've got mine all apart so if I'm going to improve on the original linkages, now is the time but what will it do for me other than give me the pleasure of having a well made mechanical system?

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                    • #11
                      What you gain is a more precise feel for when the transmission engages/disengages. To me, it's similar to loose steering in a car vs tight steering. With tight steering, small movements have exact/predictable results. With loose steering, you have some play in the steering wheel when going from one direction to another that doesn't produce any change in direction. It's similar with the T20 laterals. When you have slop in the system, a movement of the lateral will not produce any effect on steering until the play has been taken out.

                      Regardless of which style lever you have on your T20, your ATV will steer fine. By removing the extra slop though, you can just have more precise control.

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                      • #12
                        You will notice the difference going down hill and any situation where you go from throttle steering to brake steering.
                        Acta non verba

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by thebuggyman1 View Post
                          The 2 plungers are at 4 1/2 degrees to the case half......
                          Whipper is a machinist by trade, and has all the cool machines to play with, and I'm sure his t-20's are very precise.

                          I take a far more crude approach. It's fast, easy and does work well.
                          First I drill the u channels in a drill press with a 1/8" bit. This hole will be at 90 degrees, the 4 1/2 degrees only applies to the case half. The hole needs to be centered between the plunger bolt holes and spaced off the back allowing enough room to be enlarged to 3/8" later.
                          Then bolt the u channel to 2 plungers and place on case half. The bolts to plungers are in a slotted hole, so be careful to center them, and make sure it's all aligned right.
                          Next, I use an extra long drill bit in a cordless drill to put the pilot hole in the case. I put a washer behind the u channel to space it off the case and eliminate the possibility of binding and use the holes (previously drilled) through the u channel as the guide.
                          Once the 1/8" pilot holes are drilled, the case halves' holes can be enlarged then tapped, and the U channels can be drilled to 3/8".
                          The shoulder bolt is 3/8" dia. x 1 1/4" long shoulder and 5/16 thread.
                          It took my 3-1/2 hours but I did it today. When I was finally finished it was too late to give it a try. Hope all will be well tomorrow.
                          "Racing is life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting."

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                          • #14
                            I have my transmission apart so this is the time to do the popsicle stick mod. I'm not sure which is the better way. I have a mill so I can clamp the case to the table and either drill perpendicular to the case seam and then drill the metal bars at an angle, or I can drill the case at an angle and drill the bars straight. It seems to me that it would be easier to drill and tap the hole in the case and use a shoulder bolt rather than drill then ream the hole to get a dowel pin pressed in.

                            Any advice?

                            Thanks.

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                            • #15
                              Banned

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