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  • Tecumseh Clutch Question

    hey all im new to the site and i have question , im trying to remove a clutch from 16hp tecumseh engine and having no luck , im not sure how to load pictures on here but i can send in email , any help would be greatly apprecated thanks

  • #2
    Hi Yosam,


    The crankshaft output on the Tecumseh should be a 1" keyed shaft, and the clutch is held on with one bolt. After removing that bolt, it should only be friction holding the clutch on. If it's been on for a long time, they can be a bit persistent. If the engine is out of the machine, you can try putting a brass or aluminum drift (punch) down in the clutch hole and give it a couple raps with a hammer to try loosening things up. It wouldn't hurt to put a little WD-40 or penetrating oil down the hole, either. Try as hard as you can NOT to hammer on the clutch, though. It's darn easy to bend the sheeves.


    If it doesn't come easily like this, you may end up having to use a true clutch-puller on it.


    Here's a link on how to post photos.... http://www.6x6world.com/forums/6x6-w...-pictures.html
    sigpic

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    • #3
      if the engine is out of the vehicle turn it clutch side up with the bolt out and pour the center full of PB blaster or some other penetrating oil and let it sit for a day. if it is installed just spray in and behind clutch and wait. I usually end up with one or two big pry bars right at the crankshaft with metal plates against the engine if possible. A piece of shaft smaller than the keyway can be used to rap on the end of the crankshaft while applying pressure with pry bars. Apply heat to center hub with LP torch. Worse case if you are trying to save the clutch, saw shaft off and press part out . If trying to save the engine dissemble clutch and heat center hub or cut at keyway with a cutoff wheel. They usually come off with lube, patience and heat.

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      • #4
        I would think it would easy enough to make up a puller? not sure on the size of the bolt but, that and a chuck of round stock should get it done. The end of the clutch is threaded yes?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Nubs View Post
          The end of the clutch is threaded yes?
          Not most salisbury 4 stroke clutches.


          Some where on the site there is a pic I think from racerone3 showing wooden wedges used to aid in removal, some impacting on shaft was still needed using a brass drift.
          sigpic

          My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
          Joe Camel never does that.

          Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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          • #6
            on my engine...12hp tecumseh I had out, I had to literally place pads on the floor, lay it on it's side then lift up on the clutch and have a friend drive a large punch..almost 1" diameter..old input shaft from an auto into the clutch and beat on that for 45 minutes taking huge 8lb sledge whacks while holding engine off floor.

            I did this then would set engine down for a few then pick it up, then whack like MOFO and set it down...HEAT oil whack got it off.

            about 45 minutes or so to get mine off. I did bend it and don't care...I got it off.

            I tried prying, heat hammering heat prying, hitting swearing, praying, just about everything...nothing but RBFH and my wrists ached for 2 months afterwards.

            Now the replacement..after polishing shaft slides on much easier than the old one LOL nothing like lube to keep things smooth.

            Now...good luck hope yours is not as bad as mine
            MUSCATEER 6x6
            Kubota 14hp 2cyl diesel engine, Hagen/Rooter transmission Comet 780 Drive/770 Driven 22x12x8 Bearclaw tyres
            Soon to add on a ... RHB31 Turbo..guess that would make it a
            MUSCA TUR BOTA then eh?
            94 F350 4x4 7.3 IDI ZF 5sp
            90 Bronco..awaiting a rebuild like no other = Tons and turbo diesel

            Okanagan Similkameen BC Canada
            Al "Camo pants"

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