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Max ll t20 transmission issues

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  • #16
    Help me out JP, what are the sources for higher quality parts? I have purchased wheel adapters from Richard and from another source, Richards are WAY better!! His are 1/4 inch thick with pressed in studs that actually line up with the wheel holes correctly. The others were made of 1\8 with bolts welded on crooked, where's the value in that?

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    • #17
      Originally posted by boyerbl View Post
      I have decided to fix the tranny myself. I fixed the Briggs Vanguard motor that wouldn't shut down (a new kill wire attached to the magnetos). Question... should I attempt to just install the bands and plunger O rings or go for the complete rebuild? That is if it's just a broken band and the drum isn't scored. Who do you suggest is the best source for parts?
      That's a great option and will not only save you money, but help you to learn about how it operates better. I would suggest replacing all seals and gaskets. Check your bearings out well too. If they are showing signs of wear or play, go ahead and replace them. I believe mudd-Ox sells a seal kit as well as the bearings and bands if needed. If the drum is too bad, post in the wanted thread on here. I'm sure you can source a good one much cheaper here than anywhere else, but feel free to shop around. Also, getting bands relined is a good option to save money.
      l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Joe H View Post
        Help me out JP, what are the sources for higher quality parts? I have purchased wheel adapters from Richard and from another source, Richards are WAY better!! His are 1/4 inch thick with pressed in studs that actually line up with the wheel holes correctly. The others were made of 1\8 with bolts welded on crooked, where's the value in that?
        Hi Joe, I can help you out for better quality and LOWER priced parts if you need wheel adapters. I got them from Buffalo Bearing actually......1/4" thick with pressed in studs that lined up with the wheel holes perfectly too. And much better service, with no negative condescending attitude from the guys there.
        "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
        sigpic

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        • #19
          Originally posted by jpswift1 View Post
          Hi Joe, I can help you out for better quality and LOWER priced parts if you need wheel adapters. I got them from Buffalo Bearing actually......1/4" thick with pressed in studs that lined up with the wheel holes perfectly too. And much better service, with no negative condescending attitude from the guys there.
          how much?? curious! Thanks

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          • #20
            A T20 rebuild question... When I replace the bands how hard is it to remove the old pins on the plungers that the bolts attach to?

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            • #21
              It's a piece of cake Boyer. You can just drive the split pins out with a 3/8" diameter drift (or whatever you have). When you put them back in, make sure they're centered in the plunger or they'll gouge up the plunger bore. Tap them in slowly so as not to go to far, in which case you just drive them the whole way through, out the backside and start again.
              sigpic

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              • #22
                Well I pulled the transmission apart and all I could find is that the brake plungers were sticking. The drums look good and everything seems intact. I plan on honing the brake shafts before installing o rings and new bands so they work smoothly.

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                • #23
                  How much of a gap should the shift pin have in the shift collar grove?

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                  • #24
                    I have the transmission back together now, how do I test reverse? Do I need to use the steering bars?

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                    • #25
                      The only way I know to test reverse is to put the diamond shifters in the reverse position, spin the input shaft (driven clutch) and work the plungers with the u channels. If your output sprockets spin backwards then its looking good. Of course, the true test won't come until you drive it. You can't reproduce the same loads in a bench test that you will experience while driving the machine.

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                      • #26
                        I don't have my U channels installed or the plungers adjusted yet. I guessing there needs to be some braking on the T-20 for the reverse to work
                        Last edited by boyerbl; 08-04-2016, 10:46 AM.

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                        • #27
                          just screw a bolt in the top plungers and apply some outward pressure. Under a no load bench test like that, it should only take a little outward pressure to make it work. Of course, there needs to be no pressure on the bottom plungers as these create the breaking action when in reverse. Don't push in on the plungers or you risk pushing it too far into the case and damaging the o-ring.

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                          • #28
                            So reverse on the T-20 requires braking on the upper bands to work? I will test it tonight. I thought I messed up the rebuild.

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                            • #29
                              Yup, pull out on the top plungers. Like dirtdobber says, be extra careful not to let the bottom plungers go into the bore, or you'll be replacing o-rings no matter what. Sometimes the li'l bastards will walk in on themselves. You might want to put a short bolt and an extra big washer on those bottom plungers just to make sure.
                              sigpic

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                              • #30
                                does anyone know what the plunger thread size is?

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