No reverse on left side.

[TheSilverBuick]

Following up from my MAX II project thread and to make sure I'm not missing something obvious I've started this thread. I just got it running and tried out having it move under it's own power and I've got forward on both sides but reverse on the the right.

I checked the linkage adjustments, and both top and bottom on both sides are right at 11/16" from the case, and the plungers on all 4 pull out to just flush with the case when pulled to their maximums. I tried tightening up the lower left plunger a couple threads to see if reverse would grab, but didn't get anything out of it.

I tried to remove the diamond shifter, but it has a nice clip-in-groove lock and my clip pliers are away in storage. I don't suspect anything with the pin since I have forward, but also don't know quite enough to say for sure. I'll be getting the pliers I need to remove the clip and pull the shifter out before I go about removing the whole transmission.

My current guess though is the anchor pin for the band has come loose. The levers move smoothly/freely. Thoughts?

[hydromike]

My money is on a broken shift pin in the diamond shifter. Once the shift collar has moved over to forward, you'll always have forward. With the pin broken, you can't shift out of forward. I'd yank the darn snap ring holding the diamond shifter in and replace it with the updated hold down brackets.

T20-200 HOLD DOWN BRACKET, LH SHIFT LEVER - T20

[JoeMeg]

I agree with Mike. The anchor pins are held captive between the aluminum housing and the center plate. There is really no way for them to get "loose". The only pin failure I've discovered was this and you would've known about this before you reassembled your unit.

[TheSilverBuick]

My money is on a broken shift pin in the diamond shifter. Once the shift collar has moved over to forward, you'll always have forward. With the pin broken, you can't shift out of forward. I'd yank the darn snap ring holding the diamond shifter in and replace it with the updated hold down brackets.

T20-200 HOLD DOWN BRACKET, LH SHIFT LEVER - T20

That's a nifty bracket and dirt cheap. The thing that makes me think that the pin is in place is it doesn't push forward when the shifter is in neutral, wouldn't it do that? And when I removed the rod going to the diamond I had to rock the machine to shift that side into Forward, though it did go into Reverse easily enough. However, I DO like and hope this is the solution because I wouldn't have to yank the T-20 out and apart!

I agree with Mike. The anchor pins are held captive between the aluminum housing and the center plate. There is really no way for them to get "loose". The only pin failure I've discovered was this and you would've known about this before you reassembled your unit.

I didn't know they were held captive, that is good to know. Are they similarly held tight attached to the plunger? I saw one picture where a simple spring rod/clip was used to attach the band to the plunger.


Thanks for the quick replies!

[msafi65]

I have found the c clips easier to remove under the diamond with a pick. Just stick in one eye and pry out. I also throw them
away and install the retainers. If a t20 goes forward and steers on both sides all four bands are intact. With the diamond shifter out you can turn the output shaft and inspect the shift collar groove. If you remove the drive chain from that side you can tern the sprocket while shifting into reverse. If the teeth are intact in the center of the ringgear drum they engage before the diamond moves halfway. The transmission can be shifted with a screwdriver and driven without the diamonds in place to test

[TheSilverBuick]

I do have a pick set in my small tool box, so I'll do that. I'll make "upgrades" once I am having fun with the machine.

Good to know about all 4 bands being intact. I'll focus on the shifter and look at removing the chain. I plan on pulling the driven clutch off to work on it, so should provide easier access to the chain sprocket. Or maybe I'll just hang the wheels in the air. Thanks!

[msafi65]

In the air is fine. Just turn wheels and slowly shift into reverse and feel where the teeth inside start to engage. See if the other side is a lot different. I see a lot of damaged reverse teeth as new owners haven't been taught how to shift into reverse.

[TheSilverBuick]

I read your thread about pressing in new teeth rings, and taken note and care the very few times I've ran this thing, but it's clearly had a rough life before me.

[msafi65]

Hope you figure it out. I have a few tricks to remove a bad pin in a shift lever with out breaking it. Let us know what you find.

[TheSilverBuick]

As copied from my project thread. I'll need to hear a few of your tricks to remove the pin as a quick, light hearted, attempt with channel locks didn't budge it.

Winner winner chicken dinner! I didn't test the shifting with a screw driver yet because I ran out of time after removing the driven clutch, but that'll be coming up. I need to know your pro-tip on removing the pin? I tried a quick attempt with pliers, but no go. I have bunches of tools, dowel rod, etc but unfortunately it's in storage =(




I removed the driven clutch and all in all it looks good but definitely is missing some things. Also it looks like the chain just gave it a cosmetic rubbing and nothing to worry about. It appears a woodruff key is missing from the driven clutch, and I'm not sure if only one or if a second C-clip is also missing.

The cosmetic chain damage.


The T-20 shaft looks good. Question 1, does a clip go in that groove?


I guess I didn't get a picture of it, but there is a slot on the pulley shaft that I assume should have a key in it to line up with the slot on the end piece. Question 2, there is a groove on the outside of the pulley shaft, does a clip go into that groove too?



Thanks for the guidance so far!

[msafi65]

No clips on input shaft. Is the seal damaged? Part # 9878 SKF. Download and read the Salisbury manual on that clutch. Lots of good info there and easy to understand. I think the key is a special key with ears on each end. I'll look for one and take a pic. The pins can be anywhere from finger tight to press fit. To pull the pin without breaking it off I drill a #6 nut out to 1/4"( I have a box of them is why I use #6). Place nut over the pin and weld a blob to pin and nut. Nut is to keep you from welding pin to shifter. I then weld a 5/16 fine stud to the pin as a pull bolt. Set up with a nut and stack of washers or old socket?? so it can be pulled. I've learned to heat the shifter until the pin aneals (bright red)or it breaks, tighten nut slowly as pin pulls out. It's not fun but possible. I usually wait till I have several to do all at once. If it breaks off it can be redrilled for other side. New shifters are available. 13-13-598-001 and they got spendy since I last bought them.wow!

[Toys4Me]

I have a friend machine my busted pins out. He tells me they are pressed in with yellow loctite. I've been able to pull a few out with heat but not many.

[TheSilverBuick]

I do have my welder here. I've used it in the past to weld nuts to broken bolts and successfully extract them. Maybe a combination of hit it with some amperage and try the wax wick trick? Might not work if loctited, but the heat the welder can impart in a small area can be pretty significant.

[msafi65]

some pics of the proper key for that driven clutch. phone pics get distorted in upload but I wrote the dimensions on the key. Keys can be made from standard woodruff key the proper length. It is symmetrical in real life and pics are ok on my computer.
welding the stud on will make the pin very brittle just under the surface. Be careful pulling it without being able to heat it red.

[TheSilverBuick]

Huh, that's an interesting shape.