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TheSilverBuick MAX II Project

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  • #16
    Had some success this weekend and it moved under it's own power but I think the easy honeymoon is over as it doesn't have reverse on the left side and the driven clutch I think needs to come apart.

    It definitely takes some getting used to balancing the throttle and control sticks to keep from either revving it to the moon or stalling it, but I think that will come with time. It moves forward well enough but I only have reverse on the right side, which is a bummer.

    I checked the linkage adjustments, and both top and bottom on both sides are right at 11/16" from the case, and the plungers on all 4 pull out to just flush with the case when pulled to their maximums. I tried tightening up the lower left plunger a couple threads to see if reverse would grab, but didn't get anything out of it. I tried to remove the diamond shifter, but it has a nice clip in groove lock and my clip pliers are away in storage. I don't suspect anything with the pin since I have forward, but also don't know quite enough to say for sure. My current guess is the anchor pin for the band has come loose. I'm going to start a thread in the Transmission section for more troubleshooting exposure.

    Then the driven clutch. It seems either the spring isn't locked into the place it should be or it broke, though I did not find a broken edge. Thoughts? I'm probably pulling the T-20 anyways and will be removing this anyways, so but am I looking at simply assembling it correctly? Getting a new spring? Or needing a new driven clutch assembly? Here are a few pictures.



    The spring actually got caught on one of the teeth.

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    • #17
      the snap ring on the cam side of the clutch either slipped out of the groove or failed an allowed the spring to unwind. there should be space between the cam and the sprocket on the T-20.
      Acta non verba

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      • #18
        Originally posted by jerseybigfoot View Post
        the snap ring on the cam side of the clutch either slipped out of the groove or failed an allowed the spring to unwind. there should be space between the cam and the sprocket on the T-20.
        Thanks for the direction! I'll see if I can compress it and look for the clip groove. Then see what to do about getting the spring back into place. Will probably have to remove the assembly I'm sure. Thanks again!

        **edit, the more I think about it, I'm thinking I may have upset the clip when I was wiggling things around with a pry bar to make sure nothing was seized up before starting it. I'll check for it in the tub.
        Last edited by TheSilverBuick; 03-13-2017, 02:59 PM.

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        • #19
          For the T20, I doubt the anchor pin came loose. I think it would be more likely that the pin on the diamond shifter is broken/worn. When that happens, it will stay in whatever gear it was in (F/N/R) and not shift at all. The diamond shifter will move fine but nothing will happen internally. Pull those pliers out of storage and pop the diamond shifter out before trying anything else.

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          • #20
            My only concern about it possibly not being the pin is it does go between neutral and forward still.

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            • #21
              more likely a broken band or bad drum then. best to remove the trans. you will need to remove the trans to reset the snap ring on the clutch as you will have to preload the spring by indexing it a third turn.
              Acta non verba

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              • #22
                Originally posted by TheSilverBuick View Post
                My only concern about it possibly not being the pin is it does go between neutral and forward still.
                If one side of the pin is wore the other side will still act fine.

                A better pin
                sigpic

                My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
                Joe Camel never does that.

                Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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                • #23
                  Winner winner chicken dinner! I didn't test the shifting with a screw driver yet because I ran out of time after removing the driven clutch, but that'll be coming up. I need to know your pro-tip on removing the pin? I tried a quick attempt with pliers, but no go. I have bunches of tools, dowel rod, etc but unfortunately it's in storage =(




                  I removed the driven clutch and all in all it looks good but definitely is missing some things. Also it looks like the chain just gave it a cosmetic rubbing and nothing to worry about. It appears a woodruff key is missing from the driven clutch, and I'm not sure if only one or if a second C-clip is also missing.

                  The cosmetic chain damage.


                  The T-20 shaft looks good. Question 1, does a clip go in that groove?


                  I guess I didn't get a picture of it, but there is a slot on the pulley shaft that I assume should have a key in it to line up with the slot on the end piece. Question 2, there is a groove on the outside of the pulley shaft, does a clip go into that groove too?



                  Thanks for the guidance so far!

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                  • #24
                    Try some vice grips on the pin and a rubber mallet against the shifter. All of mine have come out without too much of a struggle so I'm no help beyond that.

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                    • #25
                      only one clip on the convertor, the outer for most.
                      sigpic

                      My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
                      Joe Camel never does that.

                      Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        20170314_201439[1].jpg20170314_201516[1].jpgThat hub with the 3 ramps that slid off the clutch shaft should have a key in it, and it should be held on with a snap ring. Here are a couple of pics of what it should look like when reassembled (although the buttons are worn out on the one in the picture)

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                        • #27
                          Also, I forgot to mention, there is a seal that drives into the sprocket gear. Clean it up good and check it out. From the pics it looks like the seal may be damaged, but that could just be grease.

                          The damage to your clutch is just what you said - cosmetic. Shouldn't hurt anything. Apparently the snap ring failed and the spring pushed the hub into the chain.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by dirtdobber View Post
                            Also, I forgot to mention, there is a seal that drives into the sprocket gear. Clean it up good and check it out. From the pics it looks like the seal may be damaged, but that could just be grease.

                            The damage to your clutch is just what you said - cosmetic. Shouldn't hurt anything. Apparently the snap ring failed and the spring pushed the hub into the chain.
                            My reply read the same only we had a memory failure so I deleted it.
                            sigpic

                            My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
                            Joe Camel never does that.

                            Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Thanks for the replies!

                              Originally posted by dirtdobber View Post
                              [ATTACH=CONFIG]16016[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]16015[/ATTACH]That hub with the 3 ramps that slid off the clutch shaft should have a key in it, and it should be held on with a snap ring. Here are a couple of pics of what it should look like when reassembled (although the buttons are worn out on the one in the picture)
                              Thank you for the pictures! I saw in the picture what you are seeing on the shaft seal, but have not inspected it further but will wipe it down for a better look.

                              I'm somewhat thinking the clip was never actually there when I got it. I cannot find pieces of it anywhere, though if it broke while running they could be zinged anywhere, plus the missing woodruff key implies thing thing was apart and poorly re-assembled.

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                              • #30
                                Ace Hardware FTW! I took the driven clutch to Ace and found a woodruff key that fit the slot, though needed some trimming, as well as a snap ring and 1/4" dowel.

                                Grabbed these from the drawers at Ace. I picked up some new files since mine are in storage. msafi65 sent me pictures of the factory woodruff key, so I had something to base it on. Sadly the trimming of the woodruff key would have been just a few minutes with a 4" grinder/cut off wheel, but I spent about 15 minutes with the file, so all in all wasn't terrible.


                                Won't win any awards but should do the job nicely.


                                Pre-loaded the spring and slid the end piece on and installed the snap ring. I didn't have any snap ring pliers on hand, but a flat head screw driver got the job done.


                                That snap-ring should stay in place.



                                Unfortunately the dowel didn't come out of the shifter for me. I tried a few penetrating oils and vise-grips, but no go. I think I'm just going to run it by a machine shop and have them work their magic over and install a new dowel. On a good note though, I lifted the left side off the ground and spun the wheels. At first it was in neutral, and the transmission shaft didn't move, check. Next used a screw driver to shift it into forward and the transmission shaft spun, check. Then moment of truth and shifted into reverse and it didn't want to move, puzzled me for a second, pulled the left lever and spun the tires and the transmission shaft spun! So looking good on it being the pin. Looking at how the shifting is leveraged, I can see why the pin wears like it does.

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