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T-20 transmission swap on a 2002 Argo Conquest 8x8
Does anyone have any experience doing this? Or have any recommendations or suggestions moving forward with this kind of project?
Note: I have also posted this topic to the argo off road page on Facebook.
I am currently considering this route for 3 reasons.
1. The transmission currently in my Argo has shredded drive sprocket teeth that would need to be replaced for a rather high price. Thanks ODG...
2. I find the open differential design of the Argo style transmissions to be inferior to the T-20 in many regards including, power, ease of steering, durability, top speed, potential for neutral steering, and lack of wheel slip. I have owned several Argos and Max IIs so I feel like I have enough experience to justify this opinion.
3. I already have 2 working spare T-20 transmissions at my disposal.
After doing some initial measurements and tests I've come across several obstacles that need to be addressed before moving forward.
1. Clutch alignment. The driven clutch on the T20 is too far left of center to align with the primary on the engine, even installed in the reversed configuration with the spring facing the outside of the machine. However in this configuration there should be enough space to move the engine over slightly to get proper alignment but would require additional fabrication to accommodate.
2. Jack shaft sprocket alignment. The sprockets on the T20 sit approximately 8 inches from the center and 16 inches apart. The sprockets on the argo transmission sit about 6 inches from center and 12 inches apart. The jack shaft key way for the driven sprockets allows for 1 inch of movement further out from center, meaning the maximum distance the jack shaft sprockets can be from center is 7 inches.
This will obviously require some cutting or machining, which is unfortunate but not impossible.
3. Mounting. I believe the T20 should be able to operate facing forwards or backwards since fwd and rev gear is the same ratio, but I'm not sure if it's okay to run it reversed long term. It would be easiest to mount with the plungers facing the driver as far as steering linkage is concerned.
Other than these 3 issues it looks like everything else should work out. There should be adequate space for it to fit, gearing shouldn't be a problem, and once mounted I'll have to play around with different configurations for steering controls.
If you have anything to add to this discussion please do so. Any additional expertise is appreciated as I can't seem to find any other examples of this being done in the past online.
Does anyone have any experience doing this? Or have any recommendations or suggestions moving forward with this kind of project?
Note: I have also posted this topic to the argo off road page on Facebook.
I am currently considering this route for 3 reasons.
1. The transmission currently in my Argo has shredded drive sprocket teeth that would need to be replaced for a rather high price. Thanks ODG...
2. I find the open differential design of the Argo style transmissions to be inferior to the T-20 in many regards including, power, ease of steering, durability, top speed, potential for neutral steering, and lack of wheel slip. I have owned several Argos and Max IIs so I feel like I have enough experience to justify this opinion.
3. I already have 2 working spare T-20 transmissions at my disposal.
After doing some initial measurements and tests I've come across several obstacles that need to be addressed before moving forward.
1. Clutch alignment. The driven clutch on the T20 is too far left of center to align with the primary on the engine, even installed in the reversed configuration with the spring facing the outside of the machine. However in this configuration there should be enough space to move the engine over slightly to get proper alignment but would require additional fabrication to accommodate.
2. Jack shaft sprocket alignment. The sprockets on the T20 sit approximately 8 inches from the center and 16 inches apart. The sprockets on the argo transmission sit about 6 inches from center and 12 inches apart. The jack shaft key way for the driven sprockets allows for 1 inch of movement further out from center, meaning the maximum distance the jack shaft sprockets can be from center is 7 inches.
This will obviously require some cutting or machining, which is unfortunate but not impossible.
3. Mounting. I believe the T20 should be able to operate facing forwards or backwards since fwd and rev gear is the same ratio, but I'm not sure if it's okay to run it reversed long term. It would be easiest to mount with the plungers facing the driver as far as steering linkage is concerned.
Other than these 3 issues it looks like everything else should work out. There should be adequate space for it to fit, gearing shouldn't be a problem, and once mounted I'll have to play around with different configurations for steering controls.
If you have anything to add to this discussion please do so. Any additional expertise is appreciated as I can't seem to find any other examples of this being done in the past online.