2005 avenger tub repair

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Thread: 2005 avenger tub repair

  1. #1

    2005 avenger tub repair

    Hello to all,

    As you can tell I am new to this form so please forgive me if I am not doing this the right way. I purchased a 2005 avenger 8x8 three days ago. I just found out that the seller was not as honest as he seemed to be. Anyways, We took the chains off the sprockets and found out that there is few deep gouges in the tub (under sprockets). Is there a way to repair the tub? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, I live in Windsor, ON and the parts are very expensive here. Is there an Argo dealer that you can refer me to.

    Thanks,
    Nate
    Last edited by nemanuel; 12-19-2014 at 10:38 AM. Reason: spelling

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Cleveland,Oh.
    Posts
    1,589
    Welcome to 6x6world. Your tub is poly. Clean the area throughly then you can add filler material using anything from a Weller soldering iron with a tip for plastics to a Plastic Welding tool that provides a stream of really hot air.

  3. #3
    Hello,

    Thank you for the quick reply. Can you please tell me what kind of filler you are referring to? I do have a soldering iron and a nice heat gun with 5mm tip. would that help? Thanks again.

    Nate

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Cleveland,Oh.
    Posts
    1,589
    Any plastic container with the recycle icon being a triangle with a 2 inside will work as "filler". Yes,a heat gun with a 5mm ID tip should work real nice. Must melt both the work and the filler to get them to "blend" together. Can not just melt the filler and "puddle" in. It will just fall back out. Also,I would suggest "supporting" the tub under the area your working on just in case things get a little too warm.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Whitbourne, Newfoundland, Canada
    Posts
    598
    I had the same problem with a machine I bought. I fixed it no problem. It was an 02 conquest and I just used pieces from an old skid plate that I had kicking around. If you need some small pieces then let me know and I will gladly send you a couple small pieces for the job.

    There is a section on the home page that will help you out. It is an article about plastic welding...

    here is the link to make it easy for you...
    http://www.6x6world.com/forums/conte...c-welding.html
    Even if you’re on the right track, you’ll get run over if you just sit there.
    —Will Rogers

  6. #6
    Hello guys, thank you for the input. I actually contacted a local Argo dealer and asked him if he had any ideas how to repair it. He suggested purchasing a semi rigid polyurethane sealant made by 3M, part No. 04240. Have you guys heard or used this product before? The only problem with it, it would have to be done in a heated garage or wait until the summer to do it. I found it on ebay for about $40 bucks. Thanks again for you input.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Charlotte, Mi/ Houghton Lake Mi
    Posts
    2,910
    HDPE is hard to get anything to stick to. You MUST prep the surface correctly, but any product that has enough flexibility would work. First you would have to have good access.....removal of axles and sprockets would be needed. Then clean off all grease, oil, and dirt. Sand the plastic w/ 80 grit or rougher. Clean w/ 90% alcohol and flame treat. You then have approx 1/2 hour to coat the repair area or flame treatment must be repeated. Flame treatment is waving a propane torch over the area with the flame just touching it and not heating the plastic at all.

    This is the product I have used and what I have done with it:
    WEST SYSTEM | Specialty Epoxies - G/flex
    WEST SYSTEM | Plastic Boat Repair - Kayak Massacre
    WEST SYSTEM | Specialty Epoxies - G/flex

    http://www.6x6world.com/forums/max-a...-tall-tub.html
    Compare to a stock maxII - Amphibious ATV Pictures you can see the seam here
    Attex on 26" tires - Amphibious ATV Pictures
    Tub modifications to accept 26 - Amphibious ATV Pictures

    Fiberglass cloth can be used as a filler, and excess can be sanded/ground off after it cures

  8. #8
    Thanks for all of the info guys. I will attempt to repair the tub in the summer time. BTW, as I was removing the chains I noticed a slight bend in the frame in two areas exactly where the middle axles are. Is this something I should be concerned with? If yes, do you have a suggestion as to how to repair it? I tried to attach a photo but I was unable. If you could tell me how to do it I will provide the photo. Thanks again.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kings Mountain, NC
    Posts
    7,788
    Depending on how bad the bend is, you may need to fix it. This thread will walk you through uploading photos: http://www.6x6world.com/forums/6x6-w...-pictures.html

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NJ 08533
    Posts
    5,052
    Frame will be fine and may pop back straight once axle is removed. This happens often when the outer bearing is set on axle too far inward before assy., the good news is the bearing was probably replaced by previous owner.
    Should you wish to fix this try removing axle, if frame springs back great/ if not it should straighten easily, then loosen the outer bearing and align set screw at middle to outer of the flat spot on axle that the outer bearing set screw sets in and put it all together.
    Once bearing is locked farther out on the axle, when tightening the outer flange bolts it may also pull frame rail back outward and self straighten.
    Just a side note the flat spots are different lengths on the early 810-** axles and the HDI axles.


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