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  • Argo Magnum update

    I am in the middle of doing an overhaul on my 1990 argo magnum 8. I am currently running the double 50 all around. I need to replace my chains and sprockets. Would I be better off going to the conquest set up with double 50 up front and single 60 from the second axle back? Was the change from double 50 to single 60 reliability reasons or just cost or was double 50 just overkill? The one downside of the double 50 that I have noticed is the dirt and old grease/lube builds in the valley between the double sprockets causing the chain to ride up higher in the sprockets. Are there any reasons I could not go to a single 60 set up? Thanks

    Dave

  • #2
    Double 50 is 2380 lbs working strength single 60 is 1036 lbs. which one would you depend on 20 miles from home? Fab a metal scraper that scrapes the junk that builds up in there. Id stick with what the engineers thought was best for your machine.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by chris davison View Post
      Double 50 is 2380 lbs working strength single 60 is 1036 lbs. which one would you depend on 20 miles from home? Fab a metal scraper that scrapes the junk that builds up in there. Id stick with what the engineers thought was best for your machine.
      Thanks for those figures. I had no idea that there was such a substantial difference. Got my avenger style bearing extensions mounted up on the rear today. they look great. alignment was time consuming but all went in ok. Also got the new 11 tooth idler sprockets in to replace the 13 tooth it came with. Hope to gain a little more bottom end torque. Does anyone have any experience with the threaded cap style spring retainer in the driver clutch of the magnum model argo? I am having a hard time getting that thing in and I don't want to mess it up. thanks in advance

      Dave

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      • #4
        I heard that the single 60 chain will accept more mis-alignment between sprockets. It keeps the chains from cracking and popping so much when you really get the body of the machine twisted/flexed.
        I have both and don't see much difference between the two.

        RD

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        • #5
          Thanks for the info rock doctor. I also spoke to a gentelman here in Timmins who owned the argo dealership about 10 years ago. He was also the shop mechanic. He said he preferred the single strand due to it being easier to clean. He had never really noticed a substantial difference in service life. To clean the chains on his clients machines he used to run a small air line to the bottom of a wash tub, put all the chains in the tub then submerge in cleaning solvent or diesel fuel. He would then crack the air line ever so slightly and cause a boiling effect. The next morning the chains were ready for inspection and installation. I use the same method but rather than compressed air I use a minnow bucket aerator to inject air into the solvent.

          Dave

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          • #6
            Finally got the clutch all buttoned up. I had 4 of my original axles machined to 1" and drilled & tapped to 3/8" to be able to install the thrust bolts and washers and installed them on the centers I also bought 4 brand new HD's for the fronts and rears. I went with the single 60 chain and sprockets for 2'nd 3'rd and 4'th axle mainly for the difference in price. The next stage will be to tear down the transmission and change my low gear. (Keeps popping out of low range) I have all new bearings, and planet gear cage with new bushings. If I can figure out how to post a pic I will take pics of the trans overhaul. All will be new in the machine and ready for the Kawi FD661D 22hp repower this fall.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Supermag View Post
              Thanks for the info rock doctor. I also spoke to a gentelman here in Timmins who owned the argo dealership about 10 years ago. He was also the shop mechanic. He said he preferred the single strand due to it being easier to clean. He had never really noticed a substantial difference in service life. To clean the chains on his clients machines he used to run a small air line to the bottom of a wash tub, put all the chains in the tub then submerge in cleaning solvent or diesel fuel. He would then crack the air line ever so slightly and cause a boiling effect. The next morning the chains were ready for inspection and installation. I use the same method but rather than compressed air I use a minnow bucket aerator to inject air into the solvent.

              Dave
              Interesting.
              How did it work out? I would have thought the bubbles would just rise to the top, and not clean anything

              RD

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              • #8
                think its just the movement of the solvent that does the trick.

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                • #9
                  Actually worked quite well. not to much of anything left on the chains the next morning. The bubbles just cause enough agitation in the solvent to remove any grime that has been loosened up by the solvent. I usually let them go for 12 hours or so. I have never checked the progress half way through as I always let it go over night. the next day I just blast them with compressed air to dry the chains and this usually gets anything that may still be stuck to the chains. I used to just soak overnight then put a good airgun into the solvent near the bottom of the tub and carefully agitate thoroughly but this was messy no matter how careful I was not to overdo it. Good old frabil minnow bucket aerator did the trick

                  Dave

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                  • #10
                    Awesome tip.
                    I've never cleaned my chains in such a way, but I don't usually see much gunk buildup on them either.

                    Thanks
                    RD

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                    • #11
                      Rock Doctor. What do you use to lube your chains? I am using the castrol chain lube but I find that once it flashes it is a little to thick and grabs any dirt or dust that gets in there. I usually check them every ride, lube them every 10 to 20 hours or so and remove & clean 2 times per year. Thanks

                      Dave

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                      • #12
                        I use Milcot 220, get it in 5 gal pails.
                        I've posted about it before, I'll try to find it.

                        RD

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                        • #13

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                          • #14
                            Thanks for that Rock Doctor. That stuff sounds like a good bet. I like the fact that it doesn't sling around as much. I will try to find some and try it. That was a good thread. Lots of good chain lubing information from others as well. This site sure makes owning an Argo a little easier.

                            Dave

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                            • #15
                              I saw the video that Rock Doctor put on YouTube about HD bearings on his conquest. One of the concerns was water migrating in between the inner race and the axel. I can see how the water could get in and cause problems. The mechanic at my local Argo dealer said he has seen allot of outer bearings seized to the axel on their rental units. ( these things get beat up bad) Does anyone have any advice to cure this problem. I use generous coating of anti seize on the entire axel. The only other solution I can think of is taping off the bearing, only exposing the inner race and axel and spraying some permatex spray gasket from the outside to the seam between axel and bearing. Any input would be appreciated.

                              Dave

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