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There we go:
Beginning to look like something now....
Beginning to look like something now....
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Hey Great White I'm just taking a little break for doing my pm's on my hdi and hopped on the forum to see whats happening and have to wonder if you have easy access to the plugs, chains,chain ways, and grease fittings? I find the Argos are like funnels in that every leaf from every tree you rub against goes in the tub.Comment
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Yep, anything and everything ends up in the bottom of the tub. It’s a major PITA.Originally posted by beagle man View Post
For the plugs, I have two hatch doors beside the battery.
The rear aluminum floor lifts right out to expose everything. The front is still the oem plastic floor. The engine bay is about the same as oem, except that now I don’t have a battery tray welded to the frame on the rh side.
Overall, I’d say access is no worse than OEM, maybe a little easier.Last edited by great white; 05-21-2019, 08:24 AM.Comment
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Under the weather today, some kind of stomach thing, so I didn't get much done:
Pulled the sticks off and cut down the handle lengths, installed the key in the dash and popped in the Lanyard/kill switch. I wanted a lanyard kill switch in case I get tossed from the rig on a bad bounce or roll. I've been tossed off an aluminum boat and a jetski before (catch and edge or bad wave) and lanyard kill switches have saved my bacon each time, so I'm sold on them anywhere there's a chance of being separated from a running machine.
I also took the Honda Foreman switch-gear apart and rewired the switches to work for the purposes I have in mind for them.
The kill switch is a particular PITA since the Kohler needs a "make" signal to kill the engine and the Honda switch is a "Break" switch to kill. To make it work the way I need, I'm either going to have to come up with something creative with the switch itself or simply use it to trigger a relay.
The relay seems to be the easiest way to solve the issue, so I'll probably go that way.
Coles notes: the switch will turn on the relay, the relay will pull ground off the terminal when powered and allow the Kohler to run. It will basically be "fail-safed" to not let the Kohler start with power off.
Should the fecal matter hit the fan out in the woods somewhere, I can just pull the engine connector and the Kohler will run just fine. I just won't be able to kill the engine without providing a ground.....Comment
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Hey! Doesn't this look familiar:
That's from the 2019 Aurora model.
What I bought for my 87:
Buy it from Argo? Hundreds of dollars.
Buy it from Ebay? 29.99, shipped.
Sure, the gauge face is different and it's probably got a little different programming for the LCD info, but that one hell of a markup for a made in China generic part.
I’ve got no problems with a company making profit, but fair profit. These assholes in the world today only interested in saueezing 100/200/300 percent profit out of everybody need to be drug out into the street and shot! There’s no honor or integrity in doing business like that, only rampant greed at the expense of your fellow man. Like I said, i have no problem with someone making some profit on something, the world would collapse without profit. But there’s fair profit and then there’s outright thievery!
People wonder how China got so powerful in manufacturing? These assholes running companies and finding the cheapest, worst sweatshop places to make things as cheaply as possible and mark them up like its made out of gold. Assholes. China is not the problem here, it the North Amercian companies hell bent on driving down thier costs and making unfair profit that drives China’s manufacturing success! We’re doing all this to ourselves!
Friggin' Argo is no better than any of them. Nothing is anything special from those jokers except the body and the transmission and they expect you to pay 30-40 grand for a new one.
Bastards.
Sorry, got off on a rant there...Last edited by great white; 05-22-2019, 09:29 AM.Comment
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Hey, They digital gauge is cool. Could use one of those on my old Vanguard. Would love see a post on the hookup.Comment
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At least you were able to find it on Ebay for a reasonable price. Good on ya! I've been following your build, and admire your talent!"...So sayeth the Coffinman..."Comment
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Oh, it will be on here in one form or another.Originally posted by hodgewater View Post
Probably won’t be a “how to” sort of thing though. I’m mostly a “figure it out as I go” kinda guy. I don’t really stop to take pictures or write out notes unless it’s something I think I’ll need to remeber in the future (ie: how to fix something if it breaks).Last edited by great white; 05-22-2019, 09:03 PM.Comment
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Nothing spectacular or pic worthy today. Filled the transmission, filled and bled the brakes with dot5 and carried on with the wiring work...Last edited by great white; 05-22-2019, 09:20 PM.Comment
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Well, rolled the dice and crapped out. I thought maybe someone upstairs would cut me a break, but nope.
I had hoped the small amount of oil I found on the engine tray was just residual, but this morning, fresh gear oil on the tray.
So, transmission has to come back out. What a major PITA. It’s connected to nearly everything!
Hopefully, its just the case half gasket and not a shaft seal or (gawd help me) a hairline crack in the case itself...Last edited by great white; 05-23-2019, 01:11 PM.Comment
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How much does it leak? My tranny leaks but I just keep topping it off lolComment
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Enough for me to want to fix it.Originally posted by allwheeldrive View Post
It will just keep leaking oil which will accumulate in the bottom of the tub and make everything a royal mess. Took me the better part of a month to get it clean enough where I could stand to work on it (30+ years of grease and neglect) and I’m not going through that again.
I’ll get the leak sealed up or the bloody thing will sit where it is until I do....Comment
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Well, the Kohler is a magneto and the Tach is a "regular" one. IOW, you can't drive the tach from the magneto. Signal is all wrong. voltage, current, etc, everything.
So I either can't use the tach or have to find a way to get the right signal to the tach from the magneto.
Kohler:
I find some "retail" converters, but they're all 100 bucks or more. That's a little high for what I'm sure is just a few cheap electronic bits.
I run across this on youtube:
Hmmm, maybe......need to think about it a bit more first......not sure if it will work or not.Comment
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AHA!
And I just happen to have a 6-36VDC hall sensor in my parts bins.
A Hall sensor will be a much more stable and clean signal than trying to take something off the internal coil magneto system.
A quick bracket and the only question is if I will be able to use the flywheel magnets already in the flywheel or have to add my own.
Last edited by great white; 05-24-2019, 07:19 PM.Comment
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Ok, good news is I found the transmission leak. The drain plug is a pipe thread plug and whoever put it in last time didn’t use teflon tape. I haven’t had it out, as the fluid was full and clear when I bought it.
What was happening is the oil was just slowly wicking it’s way through the thread clearance and *dripping doen onto the power pack tray.
Unfortunately, in order to find it, I had to pull the transmission out completely. The plug is so low on the case that there really wasn’t any visible fluid on it. It’s also nearly impossible to get down in there and see under the power pack, which doubles the trouble finding leaks. That I’m using a (mostly) clear synth gear oil only made it more impossible to see.
Since I had already gone this deep, I tefloned the plug and stood the transmission on so e clean white paper for 2 hours, topped off with gear oil.
Not a drop. Case gasket good, seals tight, drain plug dry.
Now begins the PITA of putting it all back in... oh my achin back.
Let me tell ya; if you’re old or don’t like working at bad angles and bent over things, you don’t want to buy an older Argo that needs some work. You’re not saving any money and you’re probably going to hurt yourself...Comment
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