Originally posted by Mike
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2006 Argo Avenger with T20
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Double 50 would be good, but I don't think the T-20 output shafts would be wide enough to accomodate a double 50 sprocket. A 60 sprocket would easily fit on the T-20 output shafts though......heck I've even seen an 80 sprocket and chain on one."Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
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I have been using tsubaki 530 Sigma chain in place of standard #50 in extreme use areas.(jackshaft down in buffalo trucks and people with teenage kids). Standard RC 50 is rated at 6600#. I remember Diamond rating their chain at somewhere arround 8500# nearly that of RC60. The sigma is 10200#. yes its expensive but very long life and 1/2 the weight of 50-2. It will also fit on the stock output sprockets of the t-20 if it has the MAX length output shafts.
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Originally posted by msafi65 View PostI have been using tsubaki 530 Sigma chain in place of standard #50 in extreme use areas.(jackshaft down in buffalo trucks and people with teenage kids). Standard RC 50 is rated at 6600#. I remember Diamond rating their chain at somewhere arround 8500# nearly that of RC60. The sigma is 10200#. yes its expensive but very long life and 1/2 the weight of 50-2. It will also fit on the stock output sprockets of the t-20 if it has the MAX length output shafts.
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Here is some double fifty Tsubaki chain. I have the "two sold" sitting in my shed awaiting spring. You can get it, if you pay attention on ebay, for about 100 bucks. This is only 75
Tsubaki 50 2 Double Strand Roller Chain 10 ft Foot Riveted New | eBayAlaska floating atvs group on face book. Fixing help and trail rides!!!!!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/alaska.AATVs/
85ish Argo 8x8 geo metro engine, hdi axles and 3 bearings per axle.
78 ford bronco... 460 lockers.... "Alaskan tow vehicle"
ATV = Alaska Terain Vehicle
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I got the flu last weekend so progress came to a halt. Today I was able to do some work though so I started tacking the mount together. Everything fit great and the T20 is located right where I wanted it. The only issue I have is with my plan for the laterals. Once I got everything in place, it looks like there is a simpler way to address the laterals. I think I will rework the T20 side plates to raise the T20 up another inch or so. Then I will just take the laterals directly under the T20, above the top of the mount. Since the transmission moves up to tighten the chains I will also have to be careful that the laterals don't hit so I may notch out the T20 mount or make it where the laterals are adjustable (up and down) to account for that. Still undecided but at least I made some progress today:
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Hey Mike: your killing me with SUSPENCE!!!!!!!!!!!! We have not seen or heard anything from you since before Christmas. Just want to say that my brother, brother inlaw & myself dicussed this idea of a T20 trans in an ARGO about 15 to 20 years ago, back when we were running an Argo magnum, before Rock-Doctor videos on clutch tuning, when we HAD to run in low gear everywhere! We hope all is well with you, your family, & THE PROJECT! Sorry, loooong, darrrrk, cooooold nights in Copper Center, we need to hear some GOOD news. Thanks
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That last post was the last time I even looked at the Argo until earlier today. The holidays took up a week and then my procrastination on what motor to use delayed me even further. I was really at a stand still until I decided on that. I need to go ahead and purchase it so that I can set it in place to make sure I have enough room in front of the T20. I also need to make sure the drive clutch will clear the tub. I hope to pick the motor up this week. I decided to just go with another Bandolero motor. It's tough to beat the price. If it fits fine in front of the T20 then I will probably purchase a reverse cam clutch to help me keep the Motor closer to the center of the frame.
As far as actual work on the Argo, today I pulled out the front four chains and the intermediate shafts. I am going to get Whipper to do a little machine work on them for me to extend the splines. I also determined that the transmission mount should work where it is if I go from the C-channel T20 levers to a piece of flat stock. Last time I posted, I mentioned that I would have to rework the mount to raise the transmission but it looks like I won't have to do that. Finally, I think I am going to try to keep the stock Argo gears on the Intermediate shafts since they are already #60. I will try to go to a #60 on the T20 but I haven't calculated the number of teeth I need yet to see if that is feasible.
I'm moving slow on this one but hopefully the purchase of the motor will push me forward.
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Mike, have you looked at the invance secondary's CVTech-IBC - - Poulies menes
You can get one right from Recreatives. It will save a couple inches.Attached Files
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Thanks for mentioning that clutch Jim. I remember seeing your photos before but hadn't thought of it since then. When I get my motor in place I will see how much room I need. I spoke with Roy at Quality Drive a week or two ago but need to follow up with him again. He was going to send me some specifications via email on a couple of offset clutches that he recommended too just for comparison.
Edit: After your comment Jim, I started thinking back to previous discussions on the same topic of an offset clutch. I really haven't given that too much thought yet on this project but remembered having the same issue on my Max IV. Looking back Marc also recommended a Polaris clutch which appears to have about the same offest as the Invance:
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Where do you get the Polaris, and what do they cost? I paid a little more for the Invance through Recreatives...Roy was out of stock, but normally carries them.
And there are other sources. club car big block driven clutch
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Good question. Marc may know but I never got that far. I assumed I could purchase directly through a Polaris dealer but maybe not? I know that a lot of the SAE guys are using the Polaris clutches on their mini baja projects but I'm not sure if they were purchasing the clutches new or getting them from old machines for parts.
Edit: Also, I was just looking back through some of jerseybigfoot's and MaxIVMark's threads and saw where Marc posted that the Polaris clutch is a 1" bore that has to be sleeved:
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