Originally posted by mike d
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My first restoration: ST/300/D
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Yup... Just search "brake lining" on McMaster.com. They have a few different thicknessess, and without a spare right near me to go by, I'd have to guess at either 3/16" or 1/4" thickness, so I won't post a direct link. Who's ordered this before from McMaster with definable results? What "friction level" did you go with?
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You might want to check with your local heavy truck supply house, or repair shop. I've got a local place that I can actually buy relining stock from. They do in-house brake relining, and they also have a scrap bin they'll let me dig through. Anyway, worth a try - you might find enough stock for free.Originally posted by Duck89 View PostAs I have been finishing the body on the Attex, I have been doing a bit of frame reassembly. I cleaned the calipers put those back together, but would like to put new brake pucks in. Where can I get the material to make new pucks?
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Hi Martin, McMaster Carr has the right stuff. I did mine with a hole saw. Good luck Later Mike
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As I have been finishing the body on the Attex, I have been doing a bit of frame reassembly. I cleaned the calipers put those back together, but would like to put new brake pucks in. Where can I get the material to make new pucks?
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Thanks, JP! It sure is amazing what a little time and effort will do. I can't get over how different it looks. It's not white anymore!
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Martin, when I first caught a glimpse at the new pics you posted I almost thought you were going to say you picked up a new old stock body because it looked like it had never been used. Great work!
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Czechsix, thanks for the advice. I haven't even touched that portion of my project since then. I started doing a little body work again and just stuck with that since it is turning out so good.
I am almost finished with the acetone! Just have to do the lower section of the right-hand side exterior and do the inside of both the upper and lower body. Then it's onto wet-sanding and buffing...then reassembly!
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Boy, that hull looks terrific!. That damage you have on yours, right where the front axle comes out, is exactly the same place it is on mine. I'm going to have to do the same thing you're doing.
As to the bolt, shouldn't be hard to fab one up at all. I'd get a thread gauge to figure out what it is - I'm sure it's going to be SAE...then again, never hurts to make sure. Anyway, find thread count, bolt size, I'd get a grade 6 and make one. Won't take too long. If you can't find the right one locally, I've got an excellent industrial supply place that I get to every couple of weeks, I'm sure they have them there. I could pick one up and mail it off to you. In stainless steel, even.
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As usual, I didn't get to the body this weekend, but decided to do the frame instead so that once I do get the body done, I can basically get it back to a roller asap. I got it all cleaned and prepped for paint, then primed it using rustoleum 'stops rust' primer. Tomorrow, I will paint it with gloss black rustoleum.
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I was also finishing up the transmission cradle and cleaning the calipers when I broke my first thing on this entire project! I had the right caliper done and was working on the left one when I was taking out the left adjuster screw (by hand) when only half of the screw came out. I think it may have been broken inside the caliper because I was only taking it out by hand, not using a wrench other than to break it loose, and it was very dirty between the two pieces. I have never seen something like this in a parts/hardware store (although I have never really had to look). Is this something that I might be able to find in a store somewhere? If not, does someone on here have one that I could buy from them? In case you need dimensions, it is a 3/16'' head and 1.75'' overall. Thanks!
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Lookin' GREAT Martin! I think that you could go either route to seal up that crack. If it's a lot more effort to drag it somewhere to have it welded, I think that goo would work just fine.
Keep up the good work.
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Well, I have the old 300/D stripped down a little more. I popped the headlights out and took the seat off. There was a little mold under the bottom half of the seat, so I will have to replace the wood and it should be good. I also took advantage of my $4.00 heat gun that I acquired at a yard sale and used it to address the dent and crack in the right front corner. It worked great! I got the dent to come most of the way out and was able to close up the crack a little bit. Should I have this crack plastic welded or will making some ABS good work good enough?
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I have a 72 colt that i have been working on.I tried the acetone,It removed the haze but it has black spots on it that is not wanting to come off.I tried wet sanding in spots to see if it would help but not much results.I may try an electric sander to see if that helps.I have 3 that i'm working on at the same time so the attex is at the bottom off the list.I got to get my stepson brandons argo ready first.
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Sorry for the delayed reply, coosaridgerider (I didn't even realized you had replied to this thread until just now). Basically, all I have done so far is used the acetone. I put some acetone on one of the socks and do a small section at a time until that brightness begins to show through. It may be hard to tell in the pictures, but this acetone/sock treatment does not leave a smooth surface, which is where the wet sanding and buffing comes in. I haven't done any more since I uploaded these pictuers, but I hope to again this week or weekend and will post more pictures of my progress.
Im not sure why you are not having similar results. Are you working on an Attex, or are you working on a Max, Argo etc.? If it is a Max or something, I am not sure what material the body is made out of so this process might now work for you?
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What are you doing to get it that shiny,I tried the acetone and sanding and a little buffing in one area but i'm not getting that shine.Looking good.
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