Amphibious walking beam trailer

[Hideous 4x4]

I have to build a trailer to pull behind my Max IV. It will be used for carting supplies to and from our cabin. I've built 2 in the past but never a amphibious one. Right now I'm looking for ideas, thinking of making the tub out of 1/8" 5052 alum. it will be 27" wide and 56" long at the top, the front will slope down about 40* so the bottom will be 38" long and 21" deep. I will use my old 25x12x9 tires so I can use one for a spare on the Max if needed. Need to find some rims with a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. I'm thinking about kind of a unibody design, just to keep it light.
I know some of you have built amphibious trailers, I searched but found very little.
I've had this hitch built for a while, it twists and rotates every way.

[Coldfoot]

Here's an option.

Heavy duty plastic dump tube. You can get a lid also. They are commonly used in Alaska Seafood processing plants. Rated for 1,000 lbs.

Remco 6901 Single Wall Dump Tubs | Reusable Containers | DACO

[Rock Doctor]

I've built them for both Quads and AATV's, but not for a number of years now. I, by far, recommend the Tandem Axle Walking Beam Design, they are much more stable in rough terrain.
Below are some pics of one of my Quad designs. Notice that I used a set of Hubs for the Walking Beams, MUCH quieter than Bushing design. Also, Make sure to install a Drain Plug (I like to put them near the center front, right by the Hitch Pipe.) Also, on this one I flipped the Walking Beam Hubs around backwards to allow me to mount the Walking Beams as close to the Tub as possible. Some of my trailers also have a Ball mounted at the back of the trailer to allow pulling 2 or more trailers as a Train.

Hope this helps you out

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[Hideous 4x4]

Here's an option.

Heavy duty plastic dump tube. You can get a lid also. They are commonly used in Alaska Seafood processing plants. Rated for 1,000 lbs.

Remco 6901 Single Wall Dump Tubs | Reusable Containers | DACO

Thanks Coldfoot.
I searched for a poly tubs and could not find anything like that, I even looked at sprayer tanks I could cut the top off. Just couldn't find anything with the right dimension's.
Thats when I started thinking about an alum tub. If all my figures are right I can make it out of 1 4x8 sheet.

[Don]

Very nice ideas.

I was afraid to open this thread. "Walking beam" sends chills down my back. Anyone that's ever had to re-bush an old Mack suspension knows what I mean. Both these trailers look good.

[Hideous 4x4]

I've built them for both Quads and AATV's, but not for a number of years now. I, by far, recommend the Tandem Axle Walking Beam Design, they are much more stable in rough terrain.
Below are some pics of one of my Quad designs. Notice that I used a set of Hubs for the Walking Beams, MUCH quieter than Bushing design. Also, Make sure to install a Drain Plug (I like to put them near the center front, right by the Hitch Pipe.) Also, on this one I flipped the Walking Beam Hubs around backwards to allow me to mount the Walking Beams as close to the Tub as possible. Some of my trailers also have a Ball mounted at the back of the trailer to allow pulling 2 or more trailers as a Train.

Hope this helps you out

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Just spent over an hour replying to your post and everytime I hit submit reply it has me logged out so I have to log back in. Well the last time it lost it. Have to go now but I will get back to you! And thanks for the info

[Coldfoot]

Roc Doc, that is a nice trailer.

Definitely a walking beam. It's on my project list. Only way to go. Yours has great ground clearance. Looks like you've angled the main beam to add height. It's well thought out.

Your tie down points look great. The ability to secure 4x8 sheets of material is important to me. I like to add a couple winch points front and rear if I have to drop the trailer in the mud hole and winch it out.

[Hideous 4x4]

Ok here's the shortened version of reply that was lost in cyber space!

Both trailer's look good to me!
Roc Doc, do you know what type of alum you made your trailers out of and the thickness? The local supplier said 3003 or 5052 will bend without breaking.
I like how you used the alum tub for added strength in your build, like a unibody auto. Raising the tongue is smart, I've noticed the tongue on the trailer I use now drags on some of the high hills.
Any idea how much your trailer weighs? A 4x8 sheet of 1/8" is about 58#, 4 tires and rims about 150# not sure on the hubs and axle stubs but for 4 maybe 40# than all the rest of the steel 30#.
Around 300#, that is lighter than my other one I've built.
I still need to find some 9" 5 on 4.5 wheels, I wouldn't think they would have to be a locking bead, if anybody has a supplier.

[Rock Doctor]

Ok here's the shortened version of reply that was lost in cyber space!

Both trailer's look good to me!
Roc Doc, do you know what type of alum you made your trailers out of and the thickness? The local supplier said 3003 or 5052 will bend without breaking.
I like how you used the alum tub for added strength in your build, like a unibody auto. Raising the tongue is smart, I've noticed the tongue on the trailer I use now drags on some of the high hills.
Any idea how much your trailer weighs? A 4x8 sheet of 1/8" is about 58#, 4 tires and rims about 150# not sure on the hubs and axle stubs but for 4 maybe 40# than all the rest of the steel 30#.
Around 300#, that is lighter than my other one I've built.
I still need to find some 9" 5 on 4.5 wheels, I wouldn't think they would have to be a locking bead, if anybody has a supplier.

5052 sounds right. I'm drawing a blank on what wire I used to weld, it had a name, not a number.....
Tub is 1/8", I tried going thinner, but it was too much of a PITA.
Not sure on the weight, but I can easily load it into a truck myself.
If you want more clearance between the trailer and ground, or trailer and Tub fenders, you can arc the walking beams a bit.

I actually have a 5' tub all bent and ready to weld up sitting behind my shop at home, I really should get back at that project (Sorry guys, not for sale)

This one has a rear tow ball, a front dry box, and "stake pockets" inside. The Stake Pockets allow me to put PVC pipe in to make a "covered Wagon" frame. Flex a piece of PVC pipe into an upside down U, stick the ends into the pockets, cover with a tarp, and away you go.
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[Rock Doctor]

On the first trailer I posted, in the pic of the bottom of the trailer, you can see 4 welds, 2 above and 2 below the center hub. I cut the beams most of the way through with a Chop Saw, then flexed the cuts closed and welded them back up. This arced the beams about 2 inches to give me more clearance. Tires to tub and Tub to ground.

[Hideous 4x4]

I know what you mean about thinner alum being a PITA! Welding thin alum is kind of like welding butter.
I like the rear ball idea. I would not have a use for it on this trailer, except if i had to drag it backwards out of a hole.
I pulled the tires off my old trailer and tossed them on the scale and got 29# the argo tires are 37# and the try-power are 44#.
This trailer used 2" sq tube and the axle and the 2 ends were receiver stock so they would slide on the tube. When we hauled the bandsaw mill in. I would swap places with the axle and the rear mount. the front and rear mount had runners on them that fit the wheels from the band mill.





This is the trailer were using now. It's sealed all around and will hold water, not sure about floating.

[Hideous 4x4]

Hope everyone had a great Christmas. I had a few days to think about this trailer build and changed a few things.
I like Roc Doc's idea of the tube around the top of the tub. I think I will use 1" sq tube around the outside (I have the sq tube already), my thinking is it might
deflect water since my tub will be like coldfoots poly tub, only the angle will be in the front to help it get up on plane easier.
This is what I came up with so far. The top is 4 1/2' long x 27"wide and the bottom is 3 1/2' long x 27" wide with 21" high sides. With the tires it will be about 4 1/2' wide and around 3' high.
This is a cardboard pattern that kind of shows what I had in mind.




I'm thinking that the 9" wheels will come from Mudd-Ox since thats all I could find.

Roc Doc what size tube did you use for the walking beam, it looks like maybe 1 1/2" sq? I've seen all your videos a couple of times (great job by the way!) and you have no problem loading your Argo with some heavy loads, do you load the trailer the same? Trying to not overbuild this trailer and keep it as light as I can. My first trailer used 2x1x1/8 inch tube. It has hauled a lot of very heavy loads with no problem, second one used 3x1x1/8 inch and I offset the axles on the bottom and the walking beam pivot on the top for more clearance, if you rotated the beam 180* it lowered it for top-heavy loads.

One more question, I've searched way to long for videos of trailers floating behind 6x6's
only found 1, if anybody has a link with some if you could post them I would sure appreciate it.
Thanks again.

[Rock Doctor]

Walking Beams and Hitch are 1 1/2"sq. The trailers get loaded very heavy sometimes (whole Moose, ect), they can take it. I've never had to do a repair on any of my trailers, with the exception of one bent hitch. I don't try to kill them, but they do take a pounding sometimes.
The Axle tube is kinda special. It's seamless Drive Shaft Pipe, but it was the only stuff I could find that perfectly received the 1" Spindle Shafts. Don't remember the $/Ft, but since you only need a short piece, its not too hard to swallow.

Your trailer looks good, very similar to one a friend of mine has. He built a set of skis for his, pop the walking beams off, mount the skis and off you go again.
I like that you can remove the box and still have enough frame to haul big/long/odd loads. Looks awesome for hauling a stack of kayaks or something like that.

[Hideous 4x4]

The axle tube is probably DOM tube (drawn over mandrel), it's good stuff. Thats what we build our tube buggy's out of. Works great for sleeves and just how you used it. The internal and external tolerance's very close and no seam.

I will definitely use be looking for something lighter weight for the hitch. Trying to use metal that I have on hand, I know I don't have any 1 1/2" sq but maybe 2" sq. thinwall or maybe some 1 1/2' DOM round?
I spent yesterday working on the wheels, I decided to drill holes for the 5 on 4.5" over the 4 on 4" bolt pattern in the wheels that I had. 4 of the holes are in solid metal and 1 is just a elongated hole. Took several hours to do the first one, had to make jig to hold it centered. The next one took about 20 min.
So the trailer hubs will be the 4 on 4" but 2 of the wheels are drilled so they will fit the Max in an emergency.

[Hideous 4x4]

Took a picture of the wheel, hope it explains it better than my description.