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Amphibious walking beam trailer

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Hideous 4x4 View Post
    Took a picture of the wheel, hope it explains it better than my description.

    nope. can't find photo????

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    • #17
      This trailer is all scrap aluminum,mostly .1". I have single axle also that changes out with 4 bolts. Had to track it per regulation changes where we hunt. "Fully tracked vehicles and trailers only"! No bearings in this one just plastic bushings cut from scrap from Adair track grousers. I made it greasable at walking beam and axles. It's designed to take two large action packer totes end to end in deep area and be level with inner tub. Floats great and tows easy.

      Last edited by msafi65; 12-28-2016, 07:48 PM.

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      • #18
        Sorry about that, I'm not very computer savvy! I deleted some photos from photo bucket and this was one of them. I had no idea that it would disappear here also.
        On a positive note I took a speed typing course and now I can use 1 finger on each hand!

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        • #19
          Originally posted by msafi65 View Post
          This trailer is all scrap aluminum,mostly .1". I have single axle also that changes out with 4 bolts. Had to track it per regulation changes where we hunt. "Fully tracked vehicles and trailers only"! No bearings in this one just plastic bushings cut from scrap from Adair track grousers. I made it greasable at walking beam and axles. It's designed to take two large action packer totes end to end in deep area and be level with inner tub. Floats great and tows easy.

          Sounds like another well thought out trailer. Very nice work. Thats interesting that you used bushings instead of bearings for the wheels, very clever! Being able to switch to a single axle is a nice feature also.
          Roc Doc mentioned that the bushing in the beam was noisy. I haven't experienced that with my 2 trailers. The only noise was from the hitch and ball if I didn't have enough tongue weight.
          I will go with the bushing for the walking beam again for this trailer.

          You wouldn't happen to have any picks of the trailer floating would you?

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          • #20
            Here is a picture floating unloaded. This was my test run to see how well it floats. I can't tell you how well if floats loaded because I never got to try it but I suspect it will float with no problem.
            Attached Files

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            • #21
              Top of tires always showing floating with a load. Full moose once with some gear. I replaced bearings so often on my other trailers I used plastic. No wear noticeable yet and it's several years old.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by bakedalaskan View Post
                Here is a picture floating unloaded. This was my test run to see how well it floats. I can't tell you how well if floats loaded because I never got to try it but I suspect it will float with no problem.
                Thanks for that pic. Those are very nice trailers. Looks like the tub is just barely in the water, mostly tires floating it. I looked on the trailers website, looks like it has the same size tires that I have and weighs 502 lbs. I'm sure it would float a moose with no problem.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by msafi65 View Post
                  Top of tires always showing floating with a load. Full moose once with some gear. I replaced bearings so often on my other trailers I used plastic. No wear noticeable yet and it's several years old.
                  I knew the tire's added a lot of flotation.
                  The plastic makes sense, it would be no different than the outer synthetic bearing on the 6x6's. I like it, thats thinking out side the box!

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                  • #24
                    I ordered the 4 hubs off of eBay on tues and Brown showed up yesterday with them. I bored the holes in the walking beam and cut and tacked the spindles in place. Going down to the big city and pick up the aluminum for the tub today. The tin bender said he could bend it up next Saturday.
                    I have decided to glue the seams on the tub instead of welding them. I can use a thinner gauge alum that way.

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                    • #25
                      I assume you will use panel adhesive with lap points. Will be stronger than the aluminum. My top edge is 1/2" alum pipe I split on the table saw with a jig. I drill holes in bottom edge of pipe so able to use bunjie cords everywhere.

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                      • #26
                        Got to thinking on my way to pick up the alum, that wasn't much of a description I left you with. msafi65 you are spot on! I've been researching this for a while.
                        I have a Triton alum enclosed trailer that I cut some windows in, the alum skin was glued on. Its been outside since 2002, you cannot separate the skin from the studs.
                        My neighbor runs a body shop, he said some cars use adhesive for the body panels, once its set you can't get it apart. So thats what I'm going to attempt.
                        2 ways I have in mind, first is like you described. Bend a 90* lip around the front bottom and back of each side. Glue and use blind pop rivets. Second would be to use 1" alum angle instead of bending the lib, then glue and rivet. I think either way would be strong enough. With a 3/4" lip I would lose that in tub height and lose double that in length, with the angle I lose nothing. Keep in mind I won't be hauling moose or anything heavy, just supplies for a week or two, oh and beer! Looking at 3M 5200 for the adhesive.
                        I wound up getting .090 aluminum and 1"x 1/8" alum angle just in case.
                        Would appreciate your thoughts on this

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                        • #27
                          I would use the angle. Bends will be really hard to get a tight fit. the only way I've found to get that panel adhesive to release is heat. haven't used the 3M before but if it gives 60 min cure time it will work. your friend is correct about new vehicles glued together. Box sides on a lot of trucks are held on with this stuff. I screw panels together with small sheet metal screws to set up, then remove and install rivets before cured. With predrilled holes you can just rivet in place and forget it.

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                          • #28
                            Has anyone tried taking a 10-12 foot John boat and attaching the axle and wheels to it. We gave this a thought for moving our equipment across the marsh. We also thought about making the axle fit into a slot with a pin in it so we could remove the axle if we needed to use the boat. Then when done put it back in the carrier and pin it back on.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Delduck View Post
                              Has anyone tried taking a 10-12 foot John boat and attaching the axle and wheels to it. We gave this a thought for moving our equipment across the marsh. We also thought about making the axle fit into a slot with a pin in it so we could remove the axle if we needed to use the boat. Then when done put it back in the carrier and pin it back on.
                              I would make it so the bracket for the wheels fastened to the top rail of the boat. they could either swing out and lay inside the boat or swing back and lock so there out of the water.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by msafi65 View Post
                                I would use the angle. Bends will be really hard to get a tight fit. the only way I've found to get that panel adhesive to release is heat. haven't used the 3M before but if it gives 60 min cure time it will work. your friend is correct about new vehicles glued together. Box sides on a lot of trucks are held on with this stuff. I screw panels together with small sheet metal screws to set up, then remove and install rivets before cured. With predrilled holes you can just rivet in place and forget it.

                                Were thinking alike here, it would be easer to get a tight fit with the angle.
                                3M 5200 cure time is 7 days. They make a fast cure that sets up in 24 hrs, I was leaning towards the fast cure. Also its a adhesive and sealer. On youtube it looks like the consistency latex calk you would use around the house.

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