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My first Hustler!

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  • #61
    Well more good news for me, it appears only one axle of 6is bad. It looks like it was repaired before and has a wobble to it, it's also an 1/8" or so shorter from being repaired, I assume. It is the front right axle, but they all appear identical except the second holes not all being exact. The sprockets tubes on the other hand are not the best, not the worst but definitely will need attention before reassembling. Have any of you had luck with the repair washers from Richards or welding the holes shut and drilling new? I do not want to mess with the axles more than I need to as far as drilling or redrilling. Since I need one axle I'm just going to have a pair made for now. Thank you guys.

    Also I am still hunting the ever elusive 18 tooth drum if there are any leads.
    DanW

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    • #62
      It's good that you have at least 5 good axles. On the 6th, is the wobble because the axle is bent, or is it because the wheel flange is bent or mounted crooked? The fact that its just a bit shorter won't hurt anything (it may be a problem with tracks, I don't know).

      As far as the sprocket bolt holes, I repair my own using some 1/4 inch flat bar. I drill a 3/8 hole and then cut it to size. Mount the sprocket tube on the axle, add the bolt and pieces of flat bar, and weld the pieces of flat bar to the sprocket tube. Mounting it keeps everything aligned, unless your axles are also egg shaped. Use your best axle.

      As for a drum, I saw a pair for sale at 6x6talk website.

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      • #63
        Originally posted by dirtdobber View Post
        It's good that you have at least 5 good axles. On the 6th, is the wobble because the axle is bent, or is it because the wheel flange is bent or mounted crooked? The fact that its just a bit shorter won't hurt anything (it may be a problem with tracks, I don't know).

        As far as the sprocket bolt holes, I repair my own using some 1/4 inch flat bar. I drill a 3/8 hole and then cut it to size. Mount the sprocket tube on the axle, add the bolt and pieces of flat bar, and weld the pieces of flat bar to the sprocket tube. Mounting it keeps everything aligned, unless your axles are also egg shaped. Use your best axle.

        As for a drum, I saw a pair for sale at 6x6talk website.
        No it just appears it was slightly off when it was welded, it's better than I could do but, while it's apart, I may aswell do it right. I like that idea for repair the sprocket tubes, that will save some coin and one more thing I can keep an eye on to be sure it's exactly right. I will have to get over and check those drums out, I rarely check it out over there anymore because it seems even more quiet than over here.
        DanW

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        • #64
          I went ahead and messaged wfo about the drums and put a check in the mail, now I just wait til it clears on his end and il have my drums, also ordered master seal kit from richards, so my biggest piece, well most important imo will be done. My buddies shop was full and the weather wasn't looks ng promising on Friday so my welding was delayed again. No big deal I guess because I never picked up material to build my laterals, 'doh! I'm trying my damnedest to only put this one together once, well see how it works out. I also ordered two red sorings, not sure I will need them but I'm all about that stump pulling grunt and this thing will serve double duty as a work horse around the yard, within reason. The second spring is for my wife's 960
          DanW

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          • #65
            Dan, I suggest you run the spring I sent you in the 980. I have the green spring in mine now and it's way too slow. Green is one step below red. When I ran the clutch I sent you it was well balanced between low speed torque and ground speed. On the hustler you have to pull the trans to get the clutch off.

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            • #66
              Originally posted by dirtdobber View Post
              Dan, I suggest you run the spring I sent you in the 980. I have the green spring in mine now and it's way too slow. Green is one step below red. When I ran the clutch I sent you it was well balanced between low speed torque and ground speed. On the hustler you have to pull the trans to get the clutch off.
              That will do, I will just put one of the red springs in her 960 then until I can afford to change the main sprockets, or maybe she will like how it performs that way and I won't change anything other than 4 stroke and red spring. Thank you for the heads up. I might have a yellow spring if you want to try it, I'm not sure how it would act with the diesel. If I still have one I can box it up and get it sent out if you want to try it.

              Also got my drums! Yayy big strides in t20 stuff this week, just waiting on the seal kit then that party will get rocking.
              Last edited by Dw89xj; 06-22-2020, 03:09 PM.
              DanW

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              • #67
                Thank you for the offer but I have a spring to use already. I put a red spring in my 950 so I have the stock spring from it.

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                • #68
                  Now my question is has anyone had success with the snap idle tensioners in the tub? They're more expensive than to build my own tensioners but they seem simple as can be. Or are the hustler poly roller tensioners fine? Mine are froze but I can put new rollers on easy enough. I'm just wanting something simple since I have to remove the upper for any work I do anyway because if the wheelchair. It's a pain in the rear but it's the nature of the beast in my situation so I've learned to just treat it as part of the game. Gotta pay to play, I guess that doesn't always mean with money.
                  DanW

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                  • #69
                    I might have done good or might have done bad but the factory tensioners are gone except for the t20 chains and I cut off the factory e brake, it is still in good shape and someone could weld it on another hustler if wanted. Two of the tensioners could be reused the other two are a loss. Got my laterals cut and bent along with gussets and braces for other spots on the frame. I should be welding it all in the morning weather permitting and if my back doesn't give me trouble from going hard today. Transmission is rebuilt and assembled. I love the feeling of being on the downhill side, although martin made it easy on me since it was all disassembled and cleaned up. I still need to go through the ol briggs and make sure it's good to go. I found out hustler motor mounts are ten bucks apiece not for the set of 8. Since it was such a productive day I might just buy an axle from richards just to keep it rolling. I could use the not so good axle that has a wobble but I'm trying not to tear down til it's time for chains, at that point I'm probably going to have my buddy machine me some hdpe or uhmw bearing extension/ cages/ synthetic type deal.
                    I did happen to find a crack, I was sad, it should be an easy fix, it's right near one of the front seat brace bolts. I think I can fix it no problem.
                    Attached Files
                    DanW

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                    • #70
                      Is there any big benefit to running 530 chain over 50? Is it enough to justify the price difference? If so does anyone know the pin count for each chain? If it way outlasts 50 chain then 250ish bucks from manufacture supply doesn't seem too hateful. I was just going to order a big roll from Buffalo bearing since I have two machines to do but in my mind a motorcycle chain should do better since they're designed for higher power machines, maybe that doesn't matter too much though(?), Since a load is a load is a load. Maybe I'm over thinking and should just get the 50 and call it macaroni, but my goal is to be easier maintenance and longer intervals between replacement without having to puppy dog around everywhere.
                      Edit- I removed the factory tensioners since I didn't have all of the pieces for them, and didn't really like them so as far as I can tell I shouldn't have any clearnce issues

                      Also need to give props to hydromike everything lines up perfect with the tub and the axle/bearing holes all line up fine.
                      Last edited by Dw89xj; 06-27-2020, 05:19 AM.
                      DanW

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                      • #71
                        After a few hours reading this morning, after not being able to fall back to sleep, I have decided to go with the 530 chain from mfg supply, the tensile strength is 9790, most of the #50 I've been able to find specs for were in the 6-7000# range. I also found a thread where kghills mentioned his pin counts as follows-
                        86 t20 to pizza pans
                        118 fronts
                        112 rears
                        Sound about right? These are all lengths mfg sells pre cut so that makes life a tad easier.
                        Still leaning toward snap idle tensioners, the only issue I can see, since removing the factory tensioners is the square cross members may stop them from from moving close to the sprocket when changing direction. Or do the snap idles pretty much stay put when adjusted? Has anyone tried the snap idle concept but instead of the side straps use eye bolts and heavy springs to keep constant tension? In my mind it would be like a cheap redneck centaur tensioner where it would have tension on either side so changing direction wouldn't add stress to the tensioner when the slack side changes. Or the springs would at least allow it to absorb (some of) the shock rather then just busting off the studs or wallering out the bolt holes in the straps.

                        Edit- rain rain go away, I got some welding todo today....
                        DanW

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                        • #72
                          Okay, eagle eyes ,
                          Well let's hear it �� I funked one up.
                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by Dw89xj; 06-27-2020, 11:30 PM.
                          DanW

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                          • #73
                            Ha. Got the input on the wrong side. At least it's not completely back together.

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                            • #74
                              dan 89 ... i have used the floating snap idlers a no. of times and had good performance with them. there needs to be some slack in the chain so when the 2 pieces are pulled together , they will float in that center point . i have also secured them in that position to make sure they did'nt run to a end . just depends on how tight a spot they are placed . hen you use those type , there is not really a slack side . johnboy va.

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                              • #75
                                Originally posted by dirtdobber View Post
                                Ha. Got the input on the wrong side. At least it's not completely back together.
                                I had it all together except the case bolts, last night night I looked at it after coming in from doing some hustler stuff and I thought wait something is off here, I looked s little closer and was like aww maaannn, I screwed this one up, the guys on the 6x6 site are gonna love this hahaha. Oh well that's what I get for not paying closer attention. Lol.

                                Johnboy, that's kind of what I was thinking when adjusted it would float where it's at I guess the skinny spot, these seem like a great solution for in a tight area. I'm going to go ahead and pull the trigger on a set, they will be dear but I think in the end worth it.
                                DanW

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