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  • #16
    Ok, the verdict is that they seem to work really good. I rode for about 20 minutes yesterday. No chain slap at all, and they stayed tight.

    The other good thing I have realized it that this modification can be done with the frame in the vehicle. We had welded in some crossbracing that we attached the tensioners to in the front of the vehicle. This did not work out very well and now I am using the stock cross braces as a mounting point in the front.

    That being said, IMO, if you have the Hustler frame out for any reason, you should add square tubing cross bracing in the front of the frame. The stock cross braces are c-channel in the front and square tubing in the back. I have had a problem with the c-channel pulling away from the frame 2x now, so hopefully the additional square tubing up front will eliminate this.
    Hammers should have warning labels.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by boncrshr View Post
      Ok, the verdict is that they seem to work really good. I rode for about 20 minutes yesterday. No chain slap at all, and they stayed tight.

      The other good thing I have realized it that this modification can be done with the frame in the vehicle. We had welded in some crossbracing that we attached the tensioners to in the front of the vehicle. This did not work out very well and now I am using the stock cross braces as a mounting point in the front.

      That being said, IMO, if you have the Hustler frame out for any reason, you should add square tubing cross bracing in the front of the frame. The stock cross braces are c-channel in the front and square tubing in the back. I have had a problem with the c-channel pulling away from the frame 2x now, so hopefully the additional square tubing up front will eliminate this.
      Mine too, scott. When I pulled the frame out it was cracked at the points that the cross bracing butts up to the frame on the front and back. I have seen others cracked at the same place. Glad to see the tensioners worked well, I might adapt them on my machine.
      Chris

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      • #18
        impressed !

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        • #19
          Hustler automatic chain tensioner video

          CLICK ON THE UTUBE LINK THATS AT THE TOP OF THIS VIDEO AND WATCH IT IN HIGH QUALITY

          Last edited by mudbug3; 07-24-2008, 02:54 PM.

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          • #20
            Chain Tensioner replacement

            Well we had our first experience with replacing the chain tensioner. My hubby went to the local Orschelons and bought a 15 tooth sprocket and put it on in place of the orignal , it works great. We will be replacing the other one same way. Part cost less than 20.00 so a good deal.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by boncrshr View Post
              Well, finally got the chain adjusters finished and ready to bolt in place. I had to completely disassemble the Hustler, which was good, because there were some factory welds that had come loose and I could feel the frame flexing. This was a good opportunity to fix those issues.

              The goal with these tensioners was first to have tensioners that did not have to be re-adjusted every time I rode the Hustler, and to eliminate a lot of driveline shock created by a static chain tensioner.

              In the picture where the tensioner is already installed, we welded additional cross bracing due to the factory welds coming loose, and attached the tensioner to the square tubing that we welded in. This tensioner will push up on the chain by simply loosening the bolts from the top. We welded nuts on the bottom of the tubing so that a backup will not be needed.

              The tensioner that is just sitting on the trailer, will be bolted to the frame in back and will pull up on the chain by tightening the bolts, again, no back-up will be necessary.

              I am pretty excited about all the changes I have made this time around....red clutch spring, correct belt tension, chain tensioners, and re-sealed T-20. A little cleaning up and painting on the frame, and I am ready to re-assemble.

              BTW, I HATE the keyed axles on the center drive axle where there are three sprockets. They tend to get stuck, and I broke my hand two weeks ago by accidentally hitting it with a hammer when beating on them (It's ok to make fun of me, everybody else has!). I did find that on the axles with only one sprocket it is very easy to remove the outer flange bolts, all set-screws, pull out the axle until the sprocket is close to the frame, and use an air hammer through the outer bearing hole to remove sprocket!

              Here's the pics..

              Chain tensioners pictures from friends & fun photos on webshots
              bone a little antiseze goes a long way
              1999 max 2 18 b&s 22 tires custom . new max iv 23 k 26 i/n tires brown . ht cable promark winch . new toy 1972 attex st400 400ccjlo and she will be bad . ( the frog ) if it don't float with out you getting wet . don't bring it ! R.I.P sage rogers 4 11 09 . you can't fix stuped !!!!! raceone 3 .)

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              • #22
                Hey Rdr,

                Great minds think alike! You and Meinfeld that is...

                Me and Meinfeld talked about this very thing...we were doing an experiment, he used anti-seize, and I used dry lube (on the recommendations of a machinist). I just got both of my center axles out again last night and I will say it was much easier this time.

                But, in retrospect, I think my difficulty last time was due to my frame cross-support failure+premature bearing failure on one side. The center axle on that side appeared chattered on the undersurface of the sprockets....

                I am gearing my Hustler down 30% to compensate for the bigger tires....should be interesting. Me and Mudbug are gonna thrash it next weekend. I went from a 30 tooth center drive sprocket to a 40 tooth...
                Hammers should have warning labels.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by boncrshr View Post
                  Hey Rdr,

                  Great minds think alike! You and Meinfeld that is...

                  Me and Meinfeld talked about this very thing...we were doing an experiment, he used anti-seize, and I used dry lube (on the recommendations of a machinist). I just got both of my center axles out again last night and I will say it was much easier this time.

                  But, in retrospect, I think my difficulty last time was due to my frame cross-support failure+premature bearing failure on one side. The center axle on that side appeared chattered on the undersurface of the sprockets....

                  I am gearing my Hustler down 30% to compensate for the bigger tires....should be interesting. Me and Mudbug are gonna thrash it next weekend. I went from a 30 tooth center drive sprocket to a 40 tooth...
                  what ever i put togather has antiseze on it if it has to come back apart .i learned that from my flats boat in salt water . jack plat bolts do not like to come out after salt water and crossion . i put the axels in my max II in with them when i changed bearings went bad i beat them and my self to death trying to get them off befor i antisezed them not it takes a bout.30 min to pull the axels out works great robbie .
                  1999 max 2 18 b&s 22 tires custom . new max iv 23 k 26 i/n tires brown . ht cable promark winch . new toy 1972 attex st400 400ccjlo and she will be bad . ( the frog ) if it don't float with out you getting wet . don't bring it ! R.I.P sage rogers 4 11 09 . you can't fix stuped !!!!! raceone 3 .)

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    max antisezes them now from the factory , robbie .
                    1999 max 2 18 b&s 22 tires custom . new max iv 23 k 26 i/n tires brown . ht cable promark winch . new toy 1972 attex st400 400ccjlo and she will be bad . ( the frog ) if it don't float with out you getting wet . don't bring it ! R.I.P sage rogers 4 11 09 . you can't fix stuped !!!!! raceone 3 .)

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Hey Robbie,

                      I am definitely going to anti-seize them this time. But I have decided that the best fix would be to get Whipper to make up some splined center axles and sprockets for the Hustler, I could even upgrade from 1 3/16" to 1.25". I will leave the keyed axles front and rear, as they are easy to get off.

                      JPSwift was telling me that the splined axles are much easier to remove?? Has that been your experience??
                      Hammers should have warning labels.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Splined with snap rings are...a snap!

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                        • #27
                          Huster modifications

                          Originally posted by boncrshr View Post
                          Hey Rdr,

                          Great minds think alike! You and Meinfeld that is...

                          Me and Meinfeld talked about this very thing...we were doing an experiment, he used anti-seize, and I used dry lube (on the recommendations of a machinist). I just got both of my center axles out again last night and I will say it was much easier this time.

                          But, in retrospect, I think my difficulty last time was due to my frame cross-support failure+premature bearing failure on one side. The center axle on that side appeared chattered on the undersurface of the sprockets....

                          I am gearing my Hustler down 30% to compensate for the bigger tires....should be interesting. Me and Mudbug are gonna thrash it next weekend. I went from a 30 tooth center drive sprocket to a 40 tooth...
                          Boncrshr- I can't wait to see how that Hustler performs with the new gearing.Make sure you get lot's of video when you go out with mudbug. The Vampires seem to be a perfect fit for your machine, now you just have to get everything in order to get the best use out of those tires and make everything work in harmony.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by boncrshr View Post
                            Hey Robbie,

                            I am definitely going to anti-seize them this time. But I have decided that the best fix would be to get Whipper to make up some splined center axles and sprockets for the Hustler, I could even upgrade from 1 3/16" to 1.25". I will leave the keyed axles front and rear, as they are easy to get off.

                            JPSwift was telling me that the splined axles are much easier to remove?? Has that been your experience??
                            mine are but there antiseized to death . onily time i have had problems was when the end was bulges out . doin't know how tha happon. love my splined axels
                            1999 max 2 18 b&s 22 tires custom . new max iv 23 k 26 i/n tires brown . ht cable promark winch . new toy 1972 attex st400 400ccjlo and she will be bad . ( the frog ) if it don't float with out you getting wet . don't bring it ! R.I.P sage rogers 4 11 09 . you can't fix stuped !!!!! raceone 3 .)

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Hey rdr,

                              Thanks..and you are exactly right...it is definitely a trial and error process to get things exactly how you want them! The bigger tires really sapped some power, and I may have been over geared to begin with because there were times with the 22" tires that I smoked the belt. So I am kinda curious too...I plan to drive it like I rented it this weekend!

                              My main goal for this weekend is I want to find a nasty mud pit and make a slow, deliberate pass...then make a Meinfeld full throttle pass and see what happens with the lower gearing. Mudbug thinks I'm gonna get stuck...but hey, he has a winch!
                              Hammers should have warning labels.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Make sure its a hardened sprocket , or it will wear out a lot sooner. I,m sure thats why it was so cheap

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