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  • Hustler axle thoughts.

    I've been reading and studying on here for quite some time and still haven't made up my mind what to do with my badly worn/bent sprockets and axles in my 980. I've tried to take info from several different post to figure out what to do but I'm still questioning many things. Here are a few ideas I'm considering but as the Hustler is the only AATV I have I don't know anything other than what I read about other manufacturer parts. I need some opinions from the pros on this sight.

    Option 1: I buy 1-1/4" Argo axles and sprockets. I think I would have to have the inner end of the axle turned down to fit a stock size Hustler 1" bearing and would probably use the old style 63mm outer Max bearing. I don't even know what teeth count sprockets are available from Argo so maybe that's a problem? How do Argo sprockets attach to the axles? I like this option because I end up with all new parts that can be replaced with off the shelf stuff.

    Option 2: I go all Max. I install Max 1-3/4" axles, again use the 63mm outer bearing, Max sprockets, and I don't know for sure what to do with the inner bearings. Some pics make the Max axles look like they use bushings for the inner end of the axle? Like the Argo option I like the fact that I would be using new currently manufactured parts. Would these Max axles be hollow?

    Option 3: I have some 1-1/4" axles made locally and probably use my stock wheel hubs. Max outter bearings again with stock inners. I imagine I would have keyways cut into the axles as well as having some off the shelf sprockets bored and keyed to match. I expect this would be pretty easy work for a real machinist (unlike me) but would probably still run up quite a tab.

    I appreciate any insight you guys might have. I've seen where some guys have done similar mods or variations of but I can't quite get a plan together.
    Thanks!
    1984 Hustler 980 and some other toys that won't even swim.

  • #2
    I'm in the process of refitting my 980 now and I went with option #4: Whipper (Apache Gear). Any way you look at it, it's going to cost a few bucks get it done and you may as well use the best available.
    Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.

    (6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far

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    • #3
      Option 2 wouldn't work because Max axles are way too short. All Max axles are 1 1/4". Some are hollow, some are solid, some are splined, and the old Max II axles have the bronze bushing inside them. Also, the inner diameter of any of the Max axles wouldn't fit the stock Hustler inner bearings.
      "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
      sigpic

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      • #4
        From what I hear the Whipper method would definately be the way to go.

        Are you going to go with the stock size axle or upsize? I wonder if Whipper would want to make another set while he's at it.
        1984 Hustler 980 and some other toys that won't even swim.

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        • #5
          1 1/4" would be the way to go. Stock Hustler axles are a not as common size, being 1 3/16".
          "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
          sigpic

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          • #6
            I should have also asked if you're going to go splined, pined, or keyed?
            1984 Hustler 980 and some other toys that won't even swim.

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            • #7
              I'm really thinking hard about going with the 1-1/4" upgrade with keyed axles/sprockets. I realize the keyed setup can't be quite as positive as the splined but are there any serious issues with it? Seems like I read where someone didn't like it for the drive axles. It sounds great compared to stock bolted and badly worn sprockets and axles.
              Thanks!
              1984 Hustler 980 and some other toys that won't even swim.

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              • #8
                I used keyed 1.25" axles on my first hustler restoration project, and I have slowly been changing them to whippers 1.25" splined axles. The keyed is just not a good robust system for our machines, and I wouldn't use it again. Lots of problems.

                Chris

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                • #9
                  I've been toying around with the same thing myself, and just haven't been able to choose a direction. Nobody wants to go to the trouble and expense of this kind of upgrade, only to regret it later or have second thoughts AFTER buying a bunch of stuff. Meinfield, what method did you use to lock your keyed sprockets, and what problems did you have? I have thought of buying keyed stock and making my own axles, using taperlock flanges, but I just can't get past the thought of locating all those sprockets every time I have to change a bearing or something. YUCK!
                  DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTION

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                  • #10
                    Nobody wants to go to the trouble and expense of this kind of upgrade, only to regret it later or have second thoughts AFTER buying a bunch of stuff.
                    You hit the nail on the head. I tore mine all down and just can't make myself put it back together with all the old worn out axles and sprockets. It's so hard to drop the kind of cash it takes to do it right but there's some old saying something like...... cost alot to do it right, cost alot more to do it twice. I've learned that one a few times but the education doesn't seem to take.

                    Meinfield, sounds like you're headed down the road I would like to take.

                    I'll be anxious to hear what you do brushcutter.
                    1984 Hustler 980 and some other toys that won't even swim.

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                    • #11
                      BC, what a lot of people do to locate their sprockets is tubing over their axles, cut to the length you need to align your sprockets. Just fill in the spaces on both sides of you sprockets for precise alignment. This method also eliminates set screws which when they dimple the axle shafts can be a PITA to get off.

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                      • #12
                        I drilled the axles just enough to set the set screws, used lock nuts, and fit the keys as tightly as possible. I used ample amounts of anti sieze. The keys would always work loose and needed constant tightening, and the sprockets were next to impossible to remove.
                        I also use good quality american made bearings designed for farm equipment, dont use the cheap chinese ones or you will be changing them out every 50 hours. The outer 1.25" bearing I used is a timken G1103KPPB4 with a locking collar. It is sealed and designed to be operated in wet conditions. The inner is a Browning VF2E-116M with a flange.
                        Good luck!
                        Chris

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                        • #13
                          Meinfield
                          Little off topic, but I was checking out your pictures and thought I saw three sets of tires for that Hustler of yours. Do you have Rawhides, Terras, and Duro Ag Lugs?
                          1984 Hustler 980 and some other toys that won't even swim.

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                          • #14
                            CC, I'm thinking buy the 1.25 keyed shaft, cut to length turn old hubs off old axles, bore and weld to new shaft. Where the keyway goes through the outer bearing can be filled with QuikSteel or JB weld then filed to smooth, or weld and turn. I don't like the idea of welding up the kw but I dont like the thought of the other options turning loose in the middle of a slough, and filling the tub with water. But I'm thinking the QS or JB should hold as long as I don't tighten the lockcollar setscrew down on it. And that brings us back to that doing it right the first time thing again, which is better. LOL It's just a vicious cycle...

                            Meinfield, thanks for the bearing info, that will be a BIG help when I get started on the upgrade, I'll be writing that info down AND saving it on tha pc. Yeah, I've had some of the same bad experience on other machines that used keyed applications. If you don't grease them they rust onto the shaft-but if you do grease them they won't stay where you put them One of my brothers told me about the taperlock flanges that they used on plywood mill machinery and that is what I am wanting to try. He said they DON"T move once locked down.

                            BW Great tip on the tubing spacers, won't be forgetting that one either. The flanges I am thinking of using are 2 piece + the sprocket, and are tapered, they are positioned as needed, then 3 bolts are tightened which draws the pieces together, locking them into position. I'm not sure but I don't think these use setscrews. To remove, the 3 bolts are removed and moved to 3 holes on the opposite side of the flange and tightened, which forces the tapered pieces apart and unlocks them, allowing them to slide freely, they work similar to a collet. But I haven't heard of anyone using them for this type of application.
                            DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTION

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                            • #15
                              brushcutter
                              It took me a couple readings of your post to realize that I have had experience with the taper lock flanges you're talking about in industry. I remeber them being used for large driven and drive pulleys on fans and some smaller sprocket setups as well. They were a very positive locking system. Only part that spooks me a little is that I can't recall them being installed on anything that had the constant rocking motion that it seems our axles/sprockets are subjected to. Did the application that your brother noted have the rocking back and forth business?
                              1984 Hustler 980 and some other toys that won't even swim.

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