Axle frozen to inner bearing :(

[Mike]

The worst part is now over. Two pieces of advice going forward, be careful when painting your axles because paint may be thick enough to prevent the new bearings from going back on. Perhaps just paint them from the hub to where the outer bearing rides. Secondly, when reassembling everything use liberal amounts of anti-sieze on the axles, in the sprocket tubes, etc. It will make disassembly a piece of cake if you ever have to remove an axle again. If you don't you will be kicking yourself down the road.

[arp35]

The worst part is now over. Two pieces of advice going forward, be careful when painting your axles because paint may be thick enough to prevent the new bearings from going back on. Perhaps just paint them from the hub to where the outer bearing rides. Secondly, when reassembling everything use liberal amounts of anti-sieze on the axles, in the sprocket tubes, etc. It will make disassembly a piece of cake if you ever have to remove an axle again. If you don't you will be kicking yourself down the road.

Good advice Mike. I will make sure and only paint the area you describe. Is anti-seize the same stuff used on brake pads? Also, what is best to clean and re-oil the chains? Thanks,
Al

[Mike]

Yes, I just usually buy the 1 oz tubes of Permatex anti-seize but any brand will do: http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ubricant_a.htm

Clean the chains by simply washing them. If they are really gunked up I have thrown them in a parts washer before with good results. Then you can soak them in motor oil while you finish your rebuild. Then lube them up with your favorite chain lube from then on out. It doesn't really matter as long as you get them clean of dirt, sand, etc and then lube them good once they are back in the machine.

[arp35]

Mike what is your paypal email address, I should be paying you for all this advice Can I donate to the site? Anyway, I have been burning brain cells trying to figure out what to do about the bearings. I know the inners are 205-16's with a 1" bore but mine seem to be pressed fitted into a single 2 bolt flange plate. Meaning there is only one flange plate, is this normal? I went to Motion Industries and he is quoting me for the Fafnir 1" bearings that are sandwiched in between two (2 bolt) flange plates. The outer bearings are the 206-19's with a 1 3/16" bore sandwiched in between 2 three bolt flange plates with the outer plate having a grease fitting. Motion Industries gave me a quote for the all FAFNIR Bearings (6 inner, 6 outer, plus all new flange plates (24 total flange plates)) for about $325.00 out the door. Is it worth paying that much or should I get the less expensive on-line (most likely chinese) for about half that cost and even save some more by re-using my old outer flange plates. I can't use the inner flange plates because the bearings are press fitted (Is that normal?). I am also thinking of using eccentric collars on the outers and set screws on the inners...any thoughts?

[Mike]

You definitely don't have to pay for my advice. In fact I would recommend you search what other people on here say more than me. I just try to facilitate communication to keep the thread at the top of the page until someone who actually knows what they are talking about comes along. Just because I'm the admin doesn't mean I know anything...seriously. Perhaps that should be my signature The good news is that there are so many knowledgeable members here even someone like me can learn a thing or two after hanging around them for a while. And yes, you can donate to the site or purchase a t-shirt / sticker. Either way all proceeds go back to keep this place running. See this thread for more info: http://www.6x6world.com/forums/6x6-w...d-sponsor.html

On to your questions...

For the bearings that you are saying are pressed into a flange plate, are you sure they aren't like the ones in this article on How to replace your Axles and Bearings ? If you will look at page two of that article, the third picture down, that is what I imagine you are talking about? The bearings rotate out of the flange. I'm just guessing here.

If that is the case, then you don't need the inner flanges, just clean and reuse the old ones. A wire brush on a drill goes a long ways here. Just be sure to get all of the dirt and contaminants out of the grease channel so that grease flows correctly. The same goes for the outer flanges. As long as they are not bent or damaged you can clean them and reuse them too but if they aren't too expensive I would buy them too just to be sure you get an even seal all the way around the outer bearings.

At first I thought the price you gave was pretty expensive but that was quoting the flanges too. Do you have a breakdown of the prices per bearing and flange. I imagine the inner flanges are fairly high?

For the collars, did all of the bearings originally have eccentric collars?

[arp35]

My inner bearings looked like this:

This is what it looked like all busted up:

I think this is the exact bearing and mine did not have neither the eccentric collars or set screws:
FYH Bearings SBPFL205-16 1" Stamped steel plate oval two bolt Flanged Bearing:Ball Bearings:VXB
The one in that link has set screws but mine didn't. The axle just slid out of them when I unbolted it. It is possible that my inner bearings were missing their collars. As far as the cost from Motion Industries, I do have a break down but it is not with me at the moment (out of town). I think the inners were about $20 a piece and the outers were $24ish. The flanges were around 5 to 7 dollars each. Are the Fahnir bearings the best? Should I just purchase japanese versions instead?
Al

[racerone3]

on the 950 I just redid, I used eccentric collars on the inner and outer. you can remove the bearing from the inner flange, use a punch and hammer to knock it sideways in the flange, then tap the bearing out with a hammer. motion quoted me $83 each for the outers (i think they make up their prices by the day as i got 5 different quotes on chain... just kept calling till i got a quote i liked) it is quite possible that your inners were just missing the lock collar. you should be able to look at the bearing and tell if they were set up for an eccentric collar. if the fafnir's are in the budget, that's what i would go with. i've had the lip that the eccentric collar locks down to break on the cheaper peer bearings that Buffalo Bearing sells. that being said, i have the cheaper ones in my hustler because $83 each was not in my budget! I always order one extra when buying bearings so that i have spares for each machine.

[arp35]

Well I decided to go cheap I bought the 2 bolt flange plate 1" bore 205-16's from TheBigBearingStore.com, they were only $10 bucks each and that included the flange plate. I also bought the 206-19's 1 3/16" bore insert bearings for about 9 bucks each. I purchased the re-lubable 3 bolt flange plates from KSCDirect.com they were about 10 bucks each for the 62mm pair. So I will see how they work out. Worse case I learn that cheaper bearings don't work. But I will keep my fingers crossed. If anyone wants the part numbers for the Fafnir bearings and their prices let me know. After shopping around, the cheapest I found the Fafnir bearings and flange plates was $325.00 out the door. The cheaper ones were slightly less than $200.00 with shipping. I'll post the make of the bearings and how they look when UPS delivers.
Al

[arp35]

I just received the bearings. They are both made by KML. Here is a question: What is the nub on the outer bearings casing? The old ones I removed look like it was knocked off or removed. Is it used to align the bearing into the indention on the flange plate where the grease fitting is? See picture...thanks.

Change 1: I just realized it is the anti-rotation pin. How does it work in the flange rings?