1983 Hustler 950 V-twin transplant

[Stonewall]

I have a nice complete set of gauges that I want to put in, but I'm having trouble figuring out the best way to mount them. I have a 3-3/8" tach, plus an oil pressure gauge, a temp guage, a voltmeter, a fuel gauge, and an hourmeter, all 2-1/16" to mount. I don't really want to mount them on the sides like the stock ammeter location, (tach won't fit there anyway...) I would like to have them somewhere that's easily seen from the driver's seat, but since the Hustlers don't really have much of a dash, I'm having a difficult time finding a good spot for all 6. I don't want a big ugly box just sitting up in front there. I was thinking maybe doing something similar to what Zoood did with his dash to mount them. I also plan to make a plexiglass windshield to hopefull prevent soaking myself.

Any and all suggestions on mounting are welcome.

Here are all my gauges but the hourmeter:

[zoood]

1st off you may want to return that tach and get one thats the size of the other gauges. I know they make em small like the others. Riders put em on their custom builds. If you have a sheet of plastic. 1/8" in thickness. You could rivet it to the face where one could call it a dash right in front of you. With a heat gun and a 3" pipe. You could form the ends of the plastic to follow the inside contour of the upper tub. I used aluminum for my dash. Where the plastic butts against that surface. Seal it with silicone. The height of your dash will protect you from the wash up. Make the top cover of your dash, screw on so you have ease of access when wiring your gauges or trouble shooting. For the edges of your plastic. HD dealerships have whats called side panel edging. Its a rubber "U" channel made for their side covers and also found on the center consoles when mounted against the painted surface of the gas tank. This way you dont have to get the edge of the plastic to fit perfectly to the atv's top surface.

I have a nice complete set of gauges that I want to put in, but I'm having trouble figuring out the best way to mount them. I have a 3-3/8" tach, plus an oil pressure gauge, a temp guage, a voltmeter, a fuel gauge, and an hourmeter, all 2-1/16" to mount. I don't really want to mount them on the sides like the stock ammeter location, (tach won't fit there anyway...) I would like to have them somewhere that's easily seen from the driver's seat, but since the Hustlers don't really have much of a dash, I'm having a difficult time finding a good spot for all 6. I don't want a big ugly box just sitting up in front there. I was thinking maybe doing something similar to what Zoood did with his dash to mount them. I also plan to make a plexiglass windshield to hopefull prevent soaking myself.

Any and all suggestions on mounting are welcome.

Here are all my gauges but the hourmeter:

[Stonewall]

1st off you may want to return that tach and get one thats the size of the other gauges. I know they make em small like the others. Riders put em on their custom builds. If you have a sheet of plastic. 1/8" in thickness. You could rivet it to the face where one could call it a dash right in front of you. With a heat gun and a 3" pipe. You could form the ends of the plastic to follow the inside contour of the upper tub. I used aluminum for my dash. Where the plastic butts against that surface. Seal it with silicone. The height of your dash will protect you from the wash up. Make the top cover of your dash, screw on so you have ease of access when wiring your gauges or trouble shooting. For the edges of your plastic. HD dealerships have whats called side panel edging. Its a rubber "U" channel made for their side covers and also found on the center consoles when mounted against the painted surface of the gas tank. This way you dont have to get the edge of the plastic to fit perfectly to the atv's top surface.

There is not a smaller tach that matches this set. I don't have a sheet of plastic, but I do have some aluminum, and that's what I planned to use. Right now I'm thinking of making a 4"x4"x however wide box, with all my gauge holes drilled into the top. Then this box would be placed at a 45 degree angle in a notch cut into the lip right in front of the driver.

I actully have a whole roll of the rubber U-channel that you mentioned, as well as plenty of silicone.

I like your idea though, that would work well with my windshield idea, I may look into some plastic sheet. Thanks!

[zoood]

Stonewall, a glazer shop (glass shop) will have the plexi glass. Lexan would work, so would acrylic. As for your idea, using plexi glass for a windshield. Back in my day, 2000BC. A lot of guys used plexi glass for windsheilds when they chopped the height of their roofs. Problem is the 1st wipe with a cloth and you add scratches. Not to mention what branches and mud and whatever else you run through. Then when the sun hits it. You cant see. I'm presently looking through those "you pull it" junk yards. For a utility or step van or something like that. They have good sized flat windows in the front. Its worth searching for. Way better than paying 600.00 for a windsheild. The main reason, they are made of glass.

[Stonewall]

Stonewall, a glazer shop (glass shop) will have the plexi glass. Lexan would work, so would acrylic. As for your idea, using plexi glass for a windshield. Back in my day, 2000BC. A lot of guys used plexi glass for windsheilds when they chopped the height of their roofs. Problem is the 1st wipe with a cloth and you add scratches. Not to mention what branches and mud and whatever else you run through. Then when the sun hits it. You cant see. I'm presently looking through those "you pull it" junk yards. For a utility or step van or something like that. They have good sized flat windows in the front. Its worth searching for. Way better than paying 600.00 for a windsheild. The main reason, they are made of glass.

A good number of older airplanes (don't know about newer ones, too expensive...) have plexi windshields, and you have to be extremely careful how and what you clean them with. I was really just planning to make a 1/3 or 1/2 windshield, just something to stop any water from coming in on me.

Can Lexan or acrylic be heated up and formed?

[zoood]

yes they can. On the lexan. The surface retains its durable smooth finish, meaning paint wont even adhere to it. It can be sanded and then you can paint it. i only mention painting it. Cause I did paintings on it for use in sky lites or ceiling tiles. Whats neat about it. Is if there is any light source behind it. You cant see the bulb. The whole surface lights up. But the edges, when polished will illuminate, like the ends of fiber optics. In other words. The edge of your dash board will be illuminated. This holds true for acrylic too.

Can Lexan or acrylic be heated up and formed?

A good number of older airplanes (don't know about newer ones, too expensive...) have plexi windshields, and you have to be extremely careful how and what you clean them with. I was really just planning to make a 1/3 or 1/2 windshield, just something to stop any water from coming in on me.

Can Lexan or acrylic be heated up and formed?

[Stonewall]

yes they can. On the lexan. The surface retains its durable smooth finish, meaning paint wont even adhere to it. It can be sanded and then you can paint it. i only mention painting it. Cause I did paintings on it for use in sky lites or ceiling tiles. Whats neat about it. Is if there is any light source behind it. You cant see the bulb. The whole surface lights up. But the edges, when polished will illuminate, like the ends of fiber optics. In other words. The edge of your dash board will be illuminated. This holds true for acrylic too.

That's cool, I'll look up some lexan then, I have a really good idea now for a windshield/dash that should work great. Thanks!

[Stonewall]

Progress Report.

Not really a whole lot to report, but I have the engine bolted down, and made a ball valve and hose system to change the oil cleanly. Today was spent making a wiring harness for the lower tub, whis was alot more time consuming than I expected, but it's done. Tomorrow I'll start on the upper body harness and dash. One thing I noticed while trying to decide how to make my dash, was that having the laterals in the stock locations isn't going to work well... I can't even fit my boot between the left lateral and the side of the tub, so I'll be taking them out and moving them to the center.

[turtlecrawler]

Nice work on the wiring......It looks like it is commimg along quite well.....

[jpswift1]

Every last detail on this machine was done perfectly! I absolutely love it, and the way you did the wiring is better than the factory. And trust me, coming from another Hustler owner with the same engine, you'll really enjoy doing oil changes on your machine........I wish I could say the same, but I think I'll just have to try and copy your setup somehow because it looks like the Exxon Valdex crashed in the tub of my Hustler when I change the oil.

[Stonewall]

Thanks for the kudos! I wanted the wiring to be clean and organized instead of wires everywhere like last time...

As far as the oil drain system, it's really easy to put together. What I used was a brass double male connector, into a 90 degree elbow, then another double male connector into the ball valve, and on the ball valve is a 3/8" hose barb. The handle was removed from the ball valve for clearance and to prevent accidental oil draining. All of the fittings are 1/2" NPT.

[Stonewall]

Today I finally got the rest of my chains and installed them. 40 feet of American made #50 roller chain now connects my 6 axles. I couldn't believe it, but the extra length cut from the 10' rolls that went around the rear and middle axles was the exact lenght needed for the chains from the T-20!!! When does this happen?! I also moved the laterals to the center, and WOW what a difference that makes! I started on my dash, and hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get it all wired up and maybe even start the engine...(might be getting a little optimistic there...)

[Stonewall]

I spent most of my time today moving my project to a different area of the shop..... Once I got settled in, I made some more progress on my dash. So far it's looking good, kindof NASCAR inspired styling. My switches will be on the left side of the plate, and I'll put a "Hustler" decal in the center for that finishing touch. I also put on some tail lights so as to hopefully not ever get rear-ended at night.

List of things to finish:

Upper body wiring and dash
Windshield
Front floor
Put sending unit in gas tank
Run fuel line
Build rear grill/seat hinge
Add light brackets to body band
Paint body band
Build oil cooler/fan shroud
Put oil in engine
Bolt it all together
Stand back and admire
Test Drive!!!!

Pictures:






Here is a picture of my work area for you to admire JP. It's slightly less than 1/8 of the shop, partially invaded by Ford 300 power unit pieces, and my grandad's John Deere B.... I would have taken a picture of the entire shop, but the battery on my phone died after I took this one.

[zoood]

Looks like you have a good start on that dash. I was thinking that if you removed the gauges and put a circular brass wire brush in a drill. You could do a nice looking brushed faced dash. With a brushed look. The dash wont be a solid reflective look shinning back at you. Just a thought.

zoood

[Stonewall]

Looks like you have a good start on that dash. I was thinking that if you removed the gauges and put a circular brass wire brush in a drill. You could do a nice looking brushed faced dash. With a brushed look. The dash wont be a solid reflective look shinning back at you. Just a thought.

zoood

I tried this, but it didn't work very well. I ended up running a dual action sander with some 220 grit over it, and it looks really good now!