Axle help with Buffalo

[tonyk72]

1/2 way there?

Carbide tipped masonry bits were the way to go. The tip of the hex wrench was made of S2 tool steel and made it nearly impossible to drill with the cobalts. The cobalt bits were only useful after I started a pilot hole with the masonry bit. After that, I alternated between the two and some left handed drill bits. So after spending about 6 hours in the garage, I managed to get the tip of the set screw out. You'll notice that I wasn't able to drill straight through and ended up drilling off at an angle and into the axle. I would have stopped sooner, but I didn't notice I had drilled out the set screw from the previous night...I found it laying in the tub this morning. From the top of the sprocket to the bottom of the hole I drilled measure about 2 inches.
So now that it's out, I still can't slide out the axle. I slam away with a slide hammer every time I put the drill down, but it just won't budge.
Any ideas? Is the axle still worth saving assuming I probably drilled a 1/4 deep hole in it?



-2 HOURS LATER...

I though I was home free with this idea...Tried pushing the sprocket off with a bottle jack sitting on the back end of the hub. I got a good bite and the bottle jack is not slipping, but it seems like I reached the capacity of the jack. Sprocket not budging. I may run out and get a 20 ton jack. If that doesn't work I think it's time to cut.

[wfo]

ive hads to cut 5 axles out one time from running in the sea of cortez.
they were welded to the sprockets, had to replace everthing.
never did that again. stay away from salt water

[trevorakm1]

I had the same problem, Tony when I did my argo. Broke the allen wrench in the set screw and all, found out later that the after wd and pb blaster I rolled the axle and sprocket over and the wrench tip dropped out after I gave the sprocket a good whack. I also had bearings seized to the axle. I ended up just cutting a few bearings off the axles and I think two sprockets. It was cheaper to replace the parts, bearings being replaced anyway than to sit and fight it all. I wanted to ride more than wrench. This may all be in response after the fact but good for others to hear of different experiences. The good part of it all for me was the education I got on the drive train of my machine. Also how to properly prep for future parts replacement.

[tonyk72]

Since my last post, I have soaked the area in Kroil. I even tipped the Buffalo at a 45 degree angle (both sides) to get the Kroil to slide down the splined axle and into the grooves under the sprocket. I had a friend heat the sprocket with an oxy acetylene torch while I pounded away with a slide hammer. I kept up with the Kroil over the weeks and hit the butt end of the axle (through the inner bearing) and outer face of the sprocket (through the tub) with an air hammer and hammer bit. I really though the air hammer would do it. I used it on one of the back axles and I watched the sprocket just slide right up the axle like magic. I got a hold of a 10 ton porta power and wedged a ram between the wheel hub and sprocket, but the sprocket didn't budge at all. I whacked the hub with a sledge hammer with the pressure on the ram applied too...nothing. Today, I propped a heavy steel digging pole up against the face of the sprocket and slammed the other end with a sledge hammer. Still nothing...Lots of time invested, but I'm enjoying the challenge and not quite ready to throw in the towel yet. I'd like to try the digging pole and sledge hammer from the other side. I started taking off the axel on the other side, but it seems like that sprocket is frozen to the axel too.
On a side note, I’m a little disappointed with the Kroil. I was encouraged when I saw it seep under the sprocket…but it hasn’t performed as I’d expect it too. Even with a tiny set screw, soaking for over a week failed to loosen it up. I was going to try the Acetone & ATF, but from all the research I’ve done it seems like this is no more effective than any other decent penetrant.

[Mike]

I think there is a direct relationship between the amount of time you put into getting the axle out and the amount of anti-seize you will use when it goes back together. In this case, your whole chasis will be silver when we see the rebuild photos.

We have all been in this situation before. It's funny seeing the differences in the way people handle the situation. Some people try to get it free a couple of times and if they can't, they immediately just cut it off. Others try to salvage whatever they have. I'm one of the ones that tries everything I can to save what's there but I have had a couple of axles that I had to finally throw in the towel with and just cut them out. Then, once they were out, I used a press to get the axle out of the sprocket. It was then that I realized I had made the right decision when, even with a 20 ton press, I had trouble getting the axles free.

Good luck.

[ARGOJIM]

Agreed Mike, we all try our best to salvage what is there, I have cut many axles and generally have a half hour rule to it then it sometimes is just cost or time effective.
On a similar note to the 20 ton press, we have a 50 ton press and have pulled many pieces of sprockets from my arms ( luckily just arms ! ), I'd say 20 ton is enough.

[tonyk72]

It took 25 tons

So my last ditch effort involved a sledge hammer, an iron digging post and a engine lift. I suspended the digging post utilizing the engine lift so that the blunt end was perpendicular to the face of the sprocket. This way, nobody had to hold the post. If there was a swing and a miss then nobody would be in the way.

3 good whacks and it moved. Unfortunately, it was the inner bearing flange that gave way. It was time to cut...One out, I gave the sprocket axle combo to my neighbor who has access to a 25 ton press. He said it took all of it to pop it loose, so much so that the table was flexing under the stress. Once it broke free he could see all the Kroil I used. He said the axle was soaked. Who knows, if I would have waited a few more months, maybe I could have gotten this out myself? The opposite axle seems like it may give me a similar challenge. Fortunately, I don't have to pull it now and I've soaked that in Kroil as well...I'll see what happens this Spring.

So moving forward, I now have at least a 3/8" hole in the sprocket where the set screw used to be. What would be the best way to keep the sprocket in place?

[jpswift1]

So my last ditch effort involved a sledge hammer, an iron digging post and a engine lift. I suspended the digging post utilizing the engine lift so that the blunt end was perpendicular to the face of the sprocket. This way, nobody had to hold the post. If there was a swing and a miss then nobody would be in the way.

3 good whacks and it moved. Unfortunately, it was the inner bearing flange that gave way. It was time to cut...One out, I gave the sprocket axle combo to my neighbor who has access to a 25 ton press. He said it took all of it to pop it loose, so much so that the table was flexing under the stress. Once it broke free he could see all the Kroil I used. He said the axle was soaked. Who knows, if I would have waited a few more months, maybe I could have gotten this out myself? The opposite axle seems like it may give me a similar challenge. Fortunately, I don't have to pull it now and I've soaked that in Kroil as well...I'll see what happens this Spring.

So moving forward, I now have at least a 3/8" hole in the sprocket where the set screw used to be. What would be the best way to keep the sprocket in place?

Cut some grooves in the axle on a lathe for snap rings to keep the sprocket in place. That's what Recreatives does on the newer Max models.

[tonyk72]

What would be the best way to determine where to cut the grooves? Put everything back together with the chains, mark it, then cut? What is the distance from the back end of the axle to the first groove?