Another MaxIV Problem

[hydromike]

So, I'm confused.

You're running the single-tube sprocket assembly on the back axle (an upgrade from the two separate sprockets that were set screwed to the axle individually- they were snapping splined axles for a while, Jay said...). Two set screws hold this tube in place on the axle. The set screws don't just screw down to the axle to hold the tube in place; they screw "into" a hole on the splined axle. This is probably a silly question, but can you verify that the sprocket tube is lined up on the axle so that the screws are screwing into the axle, versus just "against" the axle to hold it? I've made this mistake putting the racers together, so I was just giving it a thought.

The biggest problem with the set screw style is that it's not that hard to break set screws, at which point your tube can slide to either side and cause the alignment problem (hence RI's upgrade to the snap rings) Two split collars, one on each side of the tube, will help a great deal, like Mike says. They're cheap, and a cinch to install....

[swamp donkey]

What year did they go to the snap rings

[msafi65]

I Have a vehicle made in 2003 with setscrew center and front axles and snapring rear with the one piece rear sprockets. Ive seen 2000 era vehicles with one piece rear sprockets that were single setscrews and also bouble rear sprocket ones with setscrews. Whenever I have a setscrew axle out I groove it and install snaprings.

[swamp donkey]

I have a 2009 max2 that only has 30 hours so I havnt had to replace any thing yet it was a demo bought it from a dealer here in ms about 6 months ago. Do all the axles have snap rings on the newer models or just the rears?

[Hogneck]

Hogneck,

First off we all have been where you are- things not working out right, ride coming up quickly. Unfortunaly it's always better to do things right, unfortunately that will be a little more work. If you get a Buddy to help you can get down to the T-20 in less than an hour.

With that said you need to check what George suggested, also the output sprocket on the T-20 can slide down the spline away from the case causing alignment issues. This happened with my machine and is why RI recommends a spot weld on the backside to hold it in place. Now onto the axle sprocket assembly- I don't think the setscrews system is that good on holding the assembly. RI changed to milling snap ring grooves on newer machines. I would HIGHLY recommend the split collar option already mentioned. It's easy, cheap, the sprockets wont move and you won't have to pull engine to put them on.

I would strongly discourage you to not weld the sprocket to the axle. Removal of the axle after that would most likely ruin the axle because of the grinding that would be required to get the axle out with the close tolerances on the bearing and sprokets.

Good luck!

Mike

Thanks Mike and yes you are right,...welding on the shaft would be a dumb thing for me to do. I am going with locking collars I picked up today at work and will remove set screw or screws and align al lchains with tracks off the ground. I will post my success or demise. Frustration just always gets the better of me...plus Dad isn't here to put a" foot" where it" belongs" for me!

[Hogneck]

So, I'm confused.

You're running the single-tube sprocket assembly on the back axle (an upgrade from the two separate sprockets that were set screwed to the axle individually- they were snapping splined axles for a while, Jay said...). Two set screws hold this tube in place on the axle. The set screws don't just screw down to the axle to hold the tube in place; they screw "into" a hole on the splined axle. This is probably a silly question, but can you verify that the sprocket tube is lined up on the axle so that the screws are screwing into the axle, versus just "against" the axle to hold it? I've made this mistake putting the racers together, so I was just giving it a thought.

The biggest problem with the set screw style is that it's not that hard to break set screws, at which point your tube can slide to either side and cause the alignment problem (hence RI's upgrade to the snap rings) Two split collars, one on each side of the tube, will help a great deal, like Mike says. They're cheap, and a cinch to install....

Thanks Mike and yes you are also right there are two set screws and little divets pre drilled along the axel. Thank You and everyone else here for the help and letting me vent my frustration.

[Hogneck]

Thanks Guys for the help. I managed to get a lock collar on the shaft to prevent the walking . It was hard to do with everything in place but I got it. Now I can ride this weekend!!! Taking the Wife and kids to camp.

[lewis]

Try a Dog point set screw(McMaster-Carr). This has a hardened end that sets down in a drilled recess in the shaft. Remove the current set screw, use a punch to mark move sprocket and drill a spot in the shaft. install dog point set screw. These seem to stay put a lot better than any cone or standard set screw. If there is room like buggyman said a double split collar will hold it in place. I don't have a Max but there is also a option of installing a large space to stop shifting if applicable. Just a few thoughts.

The Argos have a sprocket that floats on a shaft. It is that way due to the flexing of the frame as it goes over ruts and such. The chain and sprocket find center and stay and shift as the machine flexes. I am not sure this is what causes you problem but something to think about.

[Hogneck]

I put the lock collars on and test drove today .Everything went well,chain sounds good no popping and sprocket stayed put! Can't thank the people on 6x6world enough for their help. Now onto the next fix,,,after a weekend ride first!