This is a great consern, I have just about made up my mind to bit the bullet and buy the Mudd-Ox. This is a consern for me buying from a company that is still in the start up stage and worried that if I do purchase a Mudd+ox are they going to be around in five or ten years with parts and service if needed. It would be nice to here Matt input on this issue.
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Davids 2010 Mudd Ox
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Hello Everyone,
I have read the post and talked to a few of you. I am very thankfull for the good following I have and you all care and want to see Mudd-Ox do well. I do understand that service after the sale is a must. I have hired some more help to take a big load off of my plate. They are coming up to speed now. I am sure everyone will notice a big change in response time and parts shipment. The good news is that Mudd-Ox is doing very well and will be around for a long time. I look forward to everyone seeing the change in Mudd-Ox service and support.
Regards,
Mattsigpic
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Duckkiller
I would,nt let the concerns about Matt going out of business be the reason for not buying a Mudd-Ox. I love mine. There are many older amphibs on this forum that are no longer being made, but are now up and running. These are machines that were built 15-20 years ago, and were not built to the degree of durability and with modern components like the Mudd-Ox. All of the components on a Mudd-Ox can be outsourced with the exception of the frame and upper and lower tub if Matt were to ever close his doors. I don,t think buying the hydrolic hoses , double 60 chains, or sauer danfoss , hydrolic wheel motors ,would be hard to find either. Tires ,rims, and axles could all be out sourced as well. I had a friend of mine try to talk me out of buying a Mudd-Ox for the same reasons that you mentioned , and it did,nt stop me from buying one. Matt is some times slow in sending parts, but he will send them.Last edited by mudbug3; 02-05-2011, 12:00 AM.
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I talked to Matt on the phone about the extra amount of slack in my chains. He said to properly adjust my chains, I need to get my tires off of the ground, and with the tracks removed. Then move one tire back and forth on the side of the chains that needed adjusting, until I got the chains against the bottom adjuster shoe. In the past I had adjusted my chains with the tires off of the ground, but with my tracks on. This is why I had so much trouble getting my bottom chains against the adjuster shoes. Because the hydrolics keep so much tension on the upper chains when stopped , I always allowed a 1/2" inch of slack above the adjuster shoe. Matt told me this was too much chain slack, and thats why my chains needed adjusting so often. Matt told me the correct way to adjust my chains was to use a prize bar to lift up on the bottom adjuster shoe , until the bottom chains were snug but not tight.
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The way I figure it , unless you,re entire upper and lower tub burns to the ground ,thats probably the worse thing that could happen if Matt were to ever go out of business. To prevent this from ever happening,, carry a small fire extinguisher and have it certified by a reputable company every year.
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Originally posted by mudbug3 View PostI talked to Matt on the phone about the extra amount of slack in my chains. He said to properly adjust my chains, I need to get my tires off of the ground, and with the tracks removed. Then move one tire back and forth on the side of the chains that needed adjusting, until I got the chains against the bottom adjuster shoe. In the past I had adjusted my chains with the tires off of the ground, but with my tracks on. This is why I had so much trouble getting my bottom chains against the adjuster shoes. Because the hydrolics keep so much tension on the upper chains when stopped , I always allowed a 1/2" inch of slack above the adjuster shoe. Matt told me this was too much chain slack, and thats why my chains needed adjusting so often. Matt told me the correct way to adjust my chains was to use a prize bar to lift up on the bottom adjuster shoe , until the bottom chains were snug but not tight.
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( QUOTE - Bud ) That sounds like good information that would be included in an owner's manual.
Yes, thats a very good point, but I,ve yet to receive my owners manual. I would imagine thats its very hard to print an owners manual on any of Matt,s machines since changes are being made so often on them. On the other hand , I,ve not had any problems with my Mudd-Ox since I,ve owned it. Its been rock solid. Its a well built machine!Last edited by mudbug3; 02-06-2011, 02:44 PM.
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Matt
Yes, I looked in the glove box of my Mudd-Ox right after we talked on the phone that day. In the glove box was a winch remote control, and a snatch block , and nothing else. I received an owners manual with my Max IV when I got it, and it was just about useless for learning about how to work on my Max IV. This owners manual was little more than basic common sense imformation ,like what to do when driving it ,what not to do when driving it , when to change the oil, when to adjust the chains, maximum weight limit when driving into the water. When learning how to work on any machine you usually need a shop manual ,not an owners manual.Last edited by mudbug3; 02-06-2011, 04:17 PM.
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I think some people are getting confused here as to what an owners manual is. In my experience an owners manual only covers basic operation of the machine and describes the controls etc. Some basic maintenance procedures may be in there, but full repair info would be in a workshop manual which is a completely different thing, and no manufacturer gives you one of those when you buy a machine.
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Originally posted by AussieMaxI think some people are getting confused here as to what an owners manual is. In my experience an owners manual only covers basic operation of the machine and describes the controls etc. Some basic maintenance procedures may be in there, but full repair info would be in a workshop manual which is a completely different thing, and no manufacturer gives you one of those when you buy a machine.
AussieMax
You explained this much better than I did. Thank you.
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I deleted Matt's last post due to the rules of the site here: http://www.6x6world.com/forums/6x6-w...rum-rules.html They have changed since Matt joined the site so I let the other one slide, but in order to be fair to the other manufacturers that are members of the site that are not allowed to post, please keep any business related / commercial posts off the forums going forward. Matt did nothing wrong here and was just responding to comments in the thread regarding the owners manual. I have PM'd him about this but wanted to post here as well so everyone knew why a post was deleted.
Thanks,
Mike
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I happened to pull out my Max & Buffalo ATV Operator's Manual dated June 1, 2000. It's 114 pages long with page 115 being reserved for the limited warranty. The Table of Contents is divided into 2 sections. The 1st regarding safety & the 2nd regarding Operations/Maintenance. There are so many diagrams in the operations/maintenance section that anyone that has never owned one would/should have no problem understanding or fixing or diagnosing a problem. There's a section on proper belt tension, chain adjusting, proper chain tension, adjusting the chain tension, lubricating the chains,engine idle adjustment, throttle cable adjustment, etc. & a variety of warnings of things NOT to do. It's a plethoria of helpful basic information. No, it doesn't contain a parts breakdown, but there aren't that many "different" parts They are pretty basic little machines & having the capability to diagnose a problem makes you able to enjoy them that much more. Any newbies that have a Max would find R.I's manual extremely useful. Not all previous owners save or pass on the manuals they received if they bought new, but I'm sure that you can order one from R.I. if your machine didn't come with one. It's a good thing to have.
Bridget
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