Muscateer out for a drive

[riotwarrior]

I've been in touch with Roy at QDS via email and phone, and over the course of many emails, we have come up with a list of parts for two different scenarios.

The service he has provided is second to none and his patience with my lack of knowledge and understanding is great. He has helped me to figure out what's best by looking at some pictures and reading Torque and HP specs on the diesel engine.

Thus I'm just about to order enough parts for both Gas and Diesel engine 780 Drive, and a couple parts for the 770 driven clutch I have to test with. The 770 had quite a lot of rust on the sheaves and though sanded off and cleaned up it still isn't as nice as I"d like. So if this works OK then I can later order a new 770 and if I still don't have enough LOW gearing a 11 1/4" dia 860 driven.

Parts list as follows...

DRIVEN PARTS:
1 - 703102 - Spring-Black $ 20.00
1 - 703831 - Cam Slipper(3 PER) 3.00

Gas ENGINE Clutch
DRIVE components:
1 - 164-0005 - Weight Asy.-Kit-91grm (3 PER) $ 45.00

Diesel ENGINE Clutch
DRIVE components for 900 RPM engage:
1 - 602253 - Roller wieght asy. (105 grms) 3 per $ 65.00
1 - 703548/49 - Spring kit (green) 35.00

Total for all $168.00

I'll order the 3/4" to 7/8" adapter for my driven clutch as well, that takes me to near 200 bucks for the clutching on my machine, and allows for two engine combinations. First is the gasser setup and then I can work on adding turbo diesel.

Well damn if that aint a bad price for essentially a 3 clutch setup!

Lastly will be locating a new belt for the larger secondary setup. That should be quite fun here we have ID 10 T's for people who work at parts places ROFL

[riotwarrior]

Well after much talk with my Superwifey,

I've ordered some of the parts needed and soon I'll be having a different secondary that can be used on hills, which I happen to live in around and so forth.

should be a week or two and I'll have this wrapped up.

Can't wait to show the differences on video and so forth.

Al

[rodp]

I've been in touch with Roy at QDS via email and phone, and over the course of many emails, we have come up with a list of parts for two different scenarios.

The service he has provided is second to none and his patience with my lack of knowledge and understanding is great. He has helped me to figure out what's best by looking at some pictures and reading Torque and HP specs on the diesel engine.

Thus I'm just about to order enough parts for both Gas and Diesel engine 780 Drive, and a couple parts for the 770 driven clutch I have to test with. The 770 had quite a lot of rust on the sheaves and though sanded off and cleaned up it still isn't as nice as I"d like. So if this works OK then I can later order a new 770 and if I still don't have enough LOW gearing a 11 1/4" dia 860 driven.

Parts list as follows...

DRIVEN PARTS:
1 - 703102 - Spring-Black $ 20.00
1 - 703831 - Cam Slipper(3 PER) 3.00

Gas ENGINE Clutch
DRIVE components:
1 - 164-0005 - Weight Asy.-Kit-91grm (3 PER) $ 45.00

Diesel ENGINE Clutch
DRIVE components for 900 RPM engage:
1 - 602253 - Roller wieght asy. (105 grms) 3 per $ 65.00
1 - 703548/49 - Spring kit (green) 35.00

Total for all $168.00

I'll order the 3/4" to 7/8" adapter for my driven clutch as well, that takes me to near 200 bucks for the clutching on my machine, and allows for two engine combinations. First is the gasser setup and then I can work on adding turbo diesel.

Well damn if that aint a bad price for essentially a 3 clutch setup!

Lastly will be locating a new belt for the larger secondary setup. That should be quite fun here we have ID 10 T's for people who work at parts places ROFL

?????

[riotwarrior]

?????

Really?

ID 10 T's

ID10T's

idiots....

Buwa ha ha ha ha....

[rodp]

Really?

ID 10 T's

ID10T's

idiots....

Buwa ha ha ha ha....

[riotwarrior]

Got clutch parts for testing, cause after more research and emails with Roy at QDS it is determined this is a model 700 salsbury clutch. Not a 770 as I was told previously...but honestly I didn't know either.

In order to use this I've got to raise my transmission about 2" so I've made new parts to weld to the mounts and replace the old ones. I'll add about 2.5" in height which will allow me to go up to an even larger 860 11.25" clutch if needed.

I'll get some pictures up soon as I just washed out the tub and so forth to get it nice to work on again.

Whats a good chain lube BTW guys I've got to lube mine up now that I've washed em all down with steam cleaner.

Thanks for looking...

Oh ya put in request to have some 3/16 plate steel cut to 16"x16" for diesel engine mount and a 12"x30" for a rear winch/hitch/trolling motor mount combination too!

[riotwarrior]

Ign switch went kaput, so I've bumped up my Kubota install as it's got a different wired switch and I'm wanting to transplant the diesel in. I'll be doing trans mounts this week, and working towards the diesel install asap. The panel that is wired for Kubota engine will be transplanted into Muscateer and I'll add in a Pyro and Boost gauge too.

Amazing how these lil machines eat up time and money and and and LOL

[riotwarrior]

Today was; I hope, the last day I drive the Muscateer with stupid speed clutch and gas engine.

I've removed the engine and transmission mounts so I can start to fab replacement mounts for the transmission to get it high enough to clear the larger diameter clutch. Also got busy removing the engine, and the throttle linkage from pedal to rear of machine, all brackets for throttle.

Thus here is PTO from diesel which needs key way cut, and I could turn about 0.194 more off the face down to 1" as has already been done. I'm not sure it would make much difference if I did, regardless the key way must be cut in order to use the engine as I plan.





These two mounts need to be about 2 1/2" taller so do the mounting holes

First the front mount


Rear mount, thumb is about where the hole needs to be...it's quite a bit taller than the old one.


Here the transmission is just loose and engine plate gone



HERE the red X marks the batteries current location which will most likely be moved, the three circles indicate 3 of 6 mounting bolts to remove that whole engine/trans frame, which I may just do and the two slashes on the jack shafts are where planned disc brakes will be going in the future. The brakes will provide independant L & R brakes to be used independently or together.



With the changes I'll be needing a new belt for sure, so it's important to get the basic mounts worked out so I can measure C to C of crank to input shaft on trans to determine the belt length.

That's enough for now, I'll add more as I go.

Thanks for looking

[moparharn]

I still can't get over that paint job! I think it is the best looking AATV I have ever seen. ATV for that matter. Is there a trick to doing that. I would like to copy you if you don't mind. Bill

[riotwarrior]

I still can't get over that paint job! I think it is the best looking AATV I have ever seen. ATV for that matter. Is there a trick to doing that. I would like to copy you if you don't mind. Bill

Thank you for that H U G E compliment, just start with your base colour, as I'm in desert area I started with Kahki ...I did my best to mirror digital camo of military on a larger platform.

Take and get lot's, I mean LOT's of masking tape, 2" 1.5" 1" and 1/2" and less if you can get it. If you look at the first or second page you'll find the link to the original build, some pics of masking and so forth. take your time masking and planning then go to town.

The goal is my truck/trailer/6wheeler all done in the same patterns.

Again thanks so much for the compliment

As for you wanting to copy it...Please fill yer boots I don't own a patent or copy write on it it. Base and 3 colours....


Al

Oh and I did get the PTO cut for key but he didn't do the whole shaft DOH, as I had said but for now it will do for setup and basic testing of diesel. If I need full cut keyway I can go back, only cost 20 bucks and that includes 2 feet angle iron and 1 foot of bar stock

Thanks for looking

[riotwarrior]

Spent last three days doing a Wilderness First Aid course, to go with my WCB L III I have already. Was a blast and learned a bunch.

Dropped my PTO off on Friday AM and by just after lunch it had the key way cut, not as I had planned but for now it will do. I may see if the fellow can weld on MORE shaft and cut a longer keyway for me, as that would be best IMHO.

Got some smaller steel, same size as old mounts for transmission so that will be simpler to build now.

I've got to get some help lifting that engine into my six wheeler I just can't do it on my own. 135++ lbs is not something I'ma gonna lifta up and over the edge of tub and then lower INTO tub, heck 110 lb Tecumseh is a struggle to get out on my own!

May have to break out the engine crane I suppose DOH....

Well this week I'm all over this pig for sure thanks for looking...

[riotwarrior]

Here you can see what I'm talking about.

The PTO output shaft bolts to crank on engine, and is HUB centric, this ensures it runs true.

You can see me pointing out the PTO/Crank assembly, the three retaining bolts and hub centric location



Here the keyway on the PTO is clearly cut, however I wanted it to go off the end, he could not cut closer to the face of assembly, which I understand.


Here the clutch on Left would slide onto PTO shaft with keyway and be held in place with a bolt.



That's what I'm talking about just to clear up any missunderstandings.

That clutch in turn just like a regular ATV/UTV/Snowmobile drives a diven clutch on the large finned transmission. That transmission needs to be lifted near 2 1/2" up so I can install a larger diameter secondary and get the correct backshift under load as well as lower gearing.

[riotwarrior]

OK this has got me all excited now and I'm just stoked how well this thing fits and lines up.

I made this lil plywood plate to make the trial fit simple. This should be quite helpful to make things fit well.




getting closer, L O L I removed the air filter assembly as well as the starter to lighten it up for manual insertion


From pallet to engine bay...


Clutches line up, sorta and I'll get it bang on once I've got the transmission mounts rebuilt. Trans is sitting in the right location but for old small clutch L-R positioning is almost perfect...just needs to lift 2-3"


Clearance for oil dipstick and filler along with filter, and it's not as close to chains as I had originally anticipated



lots of room behind seats for trans to come up, and starter


Here it's as it is now, however it may drop an inch or two even...once I know more on trans mounts








Tomorrow I'm on the trans mount brackets to get that set and I can begin working on the engine after that. I had to test prior to any redo of trans mounts to make sure it would work OK with it the way it is planned and it's going to work really well.

I'm quite excited about this and this is coming together really nicely. At this point that rad is about 5" above the edges of tub. however that may change if I can drop it down some, that would also lower center of gravity a bit.

Thanks for looking

Al

[riotwarrior]

Not sure on the exact model this is but the horizontal engine with gravity fed rad is same basic design as the engine going into my six wheeler...on OB where I've got THE build thread they posted this in it's own thread....so without saying anything more...

Kubota FARM TRACTOR owned PICKUP TRUCK in Drag Racing !!! - YouTube

Now I've got a turbo to add as well

LOL

[riotwarrior]

Dayum...

New starter, primary springs and weights, and a Briggs engine oil cooler ordered and shipped, all three should be arriving in Oroville WA this next week I hope.

Should make for a good time I am thinking.

Properly starting, adding oil cooler to the water coooled engine should be great and having the primary clutch setup correctly.

Back at it again today, now that I've cleared out 100 + gallons of WVO and for that got 10 gallons of 100% bio-diesel. Good swap for me I need the space the 100 gallons took up in 3.5 gallon containers.

Once I've got the trans mounts completed I'll get some pics up.

Thanks for looking