TERRA TIGER Restoration thread

[simpleton7016]

This will be my one single thread where I post progress pics of the restorations I plan to do on this trio of Terra Tigers. So far, I have them ripped down to their shell and just need to pop the tops off of them. I am hoping to get the fiberglass work done in the next couple of weeks and maybe get them painted before old man winter strikes Milwaukee.

Here is a video link and pictures. From left to right they are a TT 18 (#plate missing), TT 10 (hard to read number plate but maybe #1623) and a TT10 (#3163).

Each will be equipped with the frame reinforcements that came in the TT 18 and all the internal wood will be replaced. I am leaning toward keyed shafts all the way around with 5 bolt rims. I may try different engines (each with electric start)in each including at least one conversion to a 4 stroke (I have a good 16 horse Briggs sitting here with no home)

All internal parts will get soaked in an electrolysis tank (instructions in the video below in case anyone is interested) to derust, then coated with rust converter, primed and painted.

Tips and suggestions welcome at anytime.

[Mike]

This looks like a fun thread. I look forward to seeing your progress X 3

[jerseybigfoot]

Great view of how the body changes were made.

[simpleton7016]

The TT 18 on the right has already had some body work done and the PO took some liberties with rounding out some of the body lines. So I am not sure that those lines you see are authentic.

Progress will be very slow. I have two boys (4 and 5) that consume a LOT of time so I really only get 10 minutes here and 15 there to get anything accomplished. But with 6 months of winter coming up, I should be able to keep the electrolysis tank running day and night (as well as my favorite machinist) to have all the pieces and parts for all three ready for installation in April or May.

I really hope I can get them glassed and painted in the next few weeks.

[simpleton7016]

Here are some pictures of the rusty brake assembly frame before and after electrolysis. Also is the rust converter I use. I like this the best because I can brush it on and it will get into some areas that an aerosal spray can not. It will also fill in some pitting, keeps the parts ready for primer next spring and I can use it in the house without my wife complaining about the smell.

[simpleton7016]

Tops off

Did I mention that I don't get much extended time to work on my toys? All I got done this weekend was to take the tops off. The rivets were easy to drill out, but the TT 18 had previous work done and rusty flat head bolts were used to attach the molding. I ended up having to grind most of them off.

I did find another difference in the two different models of Tigers. The seam on the early one is flat and therefore the wheel well area is a bit more flimsy when the top is off. The later model TT10 and TT 18 had an extra lip like angle iron and is much more sturdy.

[farmtoybuilder]

Looking Good! You can come help on ours anytime PM him brand of your rust convertor. I need to get some of it!

[simpleton7016]

Replacing rotten wood

Here is a before and after picture of removing the rotten wood in the bottom. It looks to me like the wood in the bottom was in about 2 inch sections placed one in front of the other from front to back. Total dimensions are 17.5 inches wide, 68 inches long and 1/4 inch thick. I have to do some research on how I am going to replace this. My machinst is making all new cross braces like are found in the TT18's, so I think that will allow me to keep the axels true. I may have to shim a little though because the bottom fiberglass is bowed pretty significantly.

I pressure washed the rotten wood off and it cleaned up pretty nicely.

[Mike]

Hey, at least you are to the point where you can't tear it apart anymore. That's always a good milestone to reach.

[simpleton7016]

Fiberglass

Performed my first fiberglass work (ever) today. Did only two areas (with supervision and instruction from my father): a hacked up exhast hole and the bolt areas where the hood fits. I realize now that prep work is the key and the most important part.

I decided that rather than doing piece meal, I need to do these like an assembly line and do all the prep work on all three first. Then do the heavy fiberglass work, then finish work, etc. In short, this is going to take longer then the weather is going to allow this fall. I think fiberglass work will have to wait until spring b/c it just makes too big of a mess and I don't have the space in our garage. Need to be an outdoor project and we have no 60 degree or better days in the forecast....and I'll need at least three in a row.

So I have them tarper up outside and I will just concentrate on all the guts for the winter. I did however buy a 1/2" sheet of marine plywood and cut it to the right sizes for the bottoms. I may be flirting with disaster though b/c the original wood floor was 1/4". Seems to me that there was 1/4" worth of "wiggle room" on the floor that I can play with.

[simpleton7016]

Forgot the pics....also forgot to take "after" pics.

[simpleton7016]

Wow the winters are long...can't do anything until I get some more fiberglass work done. Anyone know what the minimum temp is to do effective fiberglass work? I have been under the assumption that it needs to be at least 60 degrees F.

[6X6]

Hi:
I know you adjust the amount of hardener in the resin for the temperature, but beyond certain points the strength is compromised. (There's an Ideal strength point and to either direction you are loosing strength) I have re-done the fiberglass/wood stringers in my boat and I think I was actually shooting for around 75? but I'm no expert. You may do best trying a marine supply/repair place, anyone that does fiberglass repair or sells the cloth should know. But it will also vary on the resin you are using, there are different types and I'm sure at least slight differences in workable temperatures as well.

[simpleton7016]

I ordered all of my bearings and axle seals this last week. For future reference, here are the part numbers for cross reference:

Axle Oil seal (1605017) - NAPA# 11730, I found them cheapest at Baum Hydraulics for $3.97 each.
1.188" X 1.687" X .250"

Wheel Bearings (1605016) - NAPA# 6206RSJ, I found them cheapest on e-bay through USA Belts and Bearings for $17.09 per 4-pack (ebay listing #370259338420)
1.17" X 2.439" X .629" (Metric - 30mm x 62mm x 16mm)

Primary Drive Shaft End Bearing with Collar(1605044) - NAPA# GRA012RRB. I found them cheapest at Farm and Fleet (mfg# SA 204-12) for $7.99 each.
.748" X 1.84" (Metric 19mm x 46.73mm)

Steering Clutch Bearings (1605061) - R20-2RS I found them cheapest on e-bay through USA Belts and Bearings for $3.59 each (e-bay listing #390076999091)
1.25" X 2.25"

[jpswift1]

That's some good information to have. Maybe we could have a stickey posted for all of the different part numbers for replacement bearings and seals at the top of each make of AATV section.