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Maybe someone can help identify what it should have from old specifications but I have to see them to tell the difference. If your readings come into either set of specs that will tell you what stator coil is in it. If stator is bad they arnt usually close at all. Just a test lite on the center terminal of rectifier will tell if you have battery voltage or not. Has to have it to work. Good luck figuring it out with out spending a pile of cash.
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Thanks so just connect the two outside leads in the recitifier than what ? Also is it ac or dc what setting should my volt meter be onComment
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I smell smoke...
Don't connect them together. Probe them but don't connect them.
(ignoring anything to do with rectifier)
First check resistance as described in post #8. If that's good then check the output voltage as described in post #5.
If this has passed then your stator is working. Now go back and test the rectifier (same posts but now ignore the stator stuff).Comment
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Yea I meant to say disconnectComment
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I also looked at the magnum manual on battery not charging. It said something like the volts should be 13.8 to 14.7 and when you put a load on (tuen lights on or anything that creates a load) the system the colts should go up. If not your charging system is done? Seem correct or?Comment
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do i put needles on the wire or in the actual conector that goes to the regulator? alittle bit confused someone helpComment
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take your meter but it on 12 dc and check your battery voltage. then crank it up wipe open throttle. but meter back on battery and check voltage. if same not charing if charging should be 13 plus. thats where i would start and then move over to other things. make sure fuses and good.Comment
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ok so test battery with dc volt meter. the volts should be higher after shuttting it off?Comment
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Hit up google. Check into "lead acid battery charging" and "how does an automotive charging system work." EricTheCarGuy has a video "How To Check A Charging System" on youtube. I haven't seen it but his stuff is usually easy to grasp an useful.
You learn that the alternator/dynamo will produce a voltage higher than 12 volts when working because a battery needs a certain voltage to charge. So, the voltage will be higher when the alternator is working (engine at high RPMS).Comment
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check b4 starting record volts and then start and record volts at wide open throttle which should 3600rpm. it should be higher at wot than off lets say 12.7 not running and at wot lets 14.3 give or take some maybe more just depends but you should c a difference and if u dont check fuses,ground,loose wires,ect......Comment
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check not running and record battery volts then start up wide throttle which should be 3600rpm and check volts there and record should be higher running than stopped. if it isnt check fuses,ground,wiring,ect.... not running 12.7 wot 14.5 them r just numbers just to kinda show you it should be a difference in not running and running wot those numbers are not the real ones just examples just to show..Comment
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sorry didnt mean to double post the first post didnt show up so i did another and after i posted there it. for some reason yesterday and day before i couldnt see all the other post in a different topic and just today they all came up and now i can c all the others who posted and their pics. sorry again......Comment
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Ok so my battery is t fully charged so would it still work say it it was half full and then ran the tests? So DC?Comment
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Also where are some usual places where a wire could be loose or a connection? I know all his time I have been running the Argo with two wires that were cut half way through and they were left open until I found them( yellow and red ). Also there was a black plastic connector that was melted. Would wires left open cause that ? Could I just join the wires instead of putting another connector on?Comment
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sounds by the colors your stator wires are burnt and possible the regulator wires. are they coming out from the housing from the flywheel? and if so that would cause it to not charge.Comment
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