1.5" thick repro UHMW crosser (elevated-belt) with 1/8" steel insert

[Buzz]

here's another way to lower overhead and ease of assembly on this design. It would allow you to pick exactly where you want to create your "belt slot" to determine how much gear-reduction and guide-stablility you wanted to give up....in return for a bit more argo-speed. If you're into that kind of thing. I wouldn't go more than about half-way down towards the tire tread myself.

Good thing is that it wouldn't require drilling of the rubber, nuts/bolts/nylocs/loctite or even washers/backer plates. Mark the belting, to get your overall length and hinge. Slide the crossers on and drive the torx-headed fasteners into pre-drilled crosser holes. No beveling of the rubber required either. Too easy.

[Buzz]

all of my slotted crossers are finished. Getting the rubber ready as we speak. Just waiting on some rims to mount up the tires. Looking forward to giving them a whirl. Looking to get a bunch of different track-types on other machines together if anyone's interested. Anchorage/Matsu AK and surrounding area......

[wed4life]

What do you guys use for a source of the belting?
Thanks,
David

[Buzz]

AK Rubber

[2014SE]

here's another way to lower overhead and ease of assembly on this design. It would allow you to pick exactly where you want to create your "belt slot" to determine how much gear-reduction and guide-stablility you wanted to give up....in return for a bit more argo-speed. If you're into that kind of thing. I wouldn't go more than about half-way down towards the tire tread myself.

Good thing is that it wouldn't require drilling of the rubber, nuts/bolts/nylocs/loctite or even washers/backer plates. Mark the belting, to get your overall length and hinge. Slide the crossers on and drive the torx-headed fasteners into pre-drilled crosser holes. No beveling of the rubber required either. Too easy.

Here's a thought.

For drilling the rubber you might be able to build a punch jug. I was building sign stands a few years back and had to bend clips to hold the sigh, I took a cheapo press and took out the hydronic cylinder and got 2 small air cylinders and a auto return foot peddle. I built a jug with a plunger and all it took was to stick the flat bar in and step on the peddle. 1000 clips in under a hour!! Taking that idea you might be able to take a arbor press and pull the rack and pinion out and rig up a air cylinder and peddle. Then make or get made a double punch jig. Then all you'd need to do is run the rubber through with guides to keep it square to the punch and a measurement jig for your grouser spacings. One step on the peddle and you'd have 2 bolt holes in less than a second. It will take a little time and money to build something that works but if this is something you are thinking of doing on a regular bases it's a idea.

You got a excellent design!

[Buzz]

2014- that sounds like a pretty slick idea.
Anything to save time or at least some wear-n-tear on the skeleton! I've been using one continuous piece of belting as a template that is placed on top of the other track belts so that the 1st and last crossers (and of course everything in between) falls exactly in the same place to keep it perfectly square. Sometimes the belting you get isn't perfect (doesn't matter as it gets trimmed/beveled on the inside anway). As you can imagine, you definitely need to use some sort of full-length "template" method (at least to mark the belting) prior to drilling. It would be nice to punch 2 holes at a time in one quick whack. The template method works great. It you don't do this, it's amazing how even small differences in measuring can really add up from one end of the track to the other...lets say if you measure for a handful of crossers, then jump forward and measure again starting from where you last left off. Things can get out of square pretty quick at any point in the track... and trying to cheat one belt back or forth a bit can mess up other crossers down the line. I like to use a nice flat surface long enough to lay the entire track length out and mark with the template. Same template for all (4) pieces. I think a full-length angled table would work swell with a piece of angle at the bottom (full-length) to hold the belts in a good ergonomic position. Would be better than crawling around on a cement floor!
I look forward to seeing some more of your videos! I'd love to see your machine conquer some slush.

[Buzz]

here's a sneak peak at the makings of the first of 4 half-tracks for the Ox. Depending on how much clearance I end up with inboard of the new tires (might trim the inner belt an inch), they'll end up being probably 25 or 26" wide. The additional belting outboard of the crosser body can simply fold (squish) up if you need to squeeze between a tight spot. You can't go wrong with conveyor belting. It's tough stuff.

[Buzz]

dual-track with escargo-style elevated-belt slotted crossers. 24x12x12 tires, Mudd-Ox / Max wheels. 26" wide.

Will finish the other side on the next day off. Should have a chance to test within a few days!

[Fitz67]

Buzz you sure do some nice work ! What's the advantage of duals over a single track?

[mightymaxIV]

dual-track with escargo-style elevated-belt slotted crossers. 24x12x12 tires, Mudd-Ox / Max wheels. 26" wide.

Will finish the other side on the next day off. Should have a chance to test within a few days!

Buzz, I believe that you have hit on the ultimate set up, very, very nice work!!! But I have the same question as Fitz, why the half track set up???? Is this to avoid chain wind up?? Do you see any advantage over a full track which would lower PSI and put more blades on the ground?????

[Buzz]

thanks guys. Experimenting is part of the fun. The main thing I'm trying to look at is just how effective the dual track system works by adding a bit extra width (I added a lot for the hell of it) to make up for the surface area lost between axles 2 and 3. There are a few benefits (I think) with this particular track design...at least for me...but potentially others. I have a heavy, commercial style rig. 1) It will match tire-tread speeds with track-component speeds over all tires...as every track is composed of (2) "end-wrap" tires that experience the "splaying-out" effect of an elevated belt track. So it will not require track-tuners. 2) turning should be even easier 3) will be even more impossible to derail.
4) it won't require removing center-axle track tuners if you remove your tracks and want to drive on tires. A quick hinge-pin removal, and the tracks are off.

I'll be able to run the tracks on the lower end of the "tension" scale for sure, as I've tested escargo half-tracks that were so loose you could virtually pull them right off the end tires (by hand) if it wasn't for the track being pinned under the tires. But, when driving on the machine, you still couldn't drive out of them in the side-hilling/turning conditions I've described earlier because of the way the crosser-guides work.

The cleats at tread-level are able to move and self-adjust, in a sense, and that along with not requiring excess tension while using wide/smooth/open-style crossers should more than allow the tires to slip easily.

On the other hand, a rubber track-dual-track set up similar to this (like the centaur) could suffer increased chain-wind up as end-tires are the hardest to slip. The constant contact patch of rubber could be troublesome I imagine. Their smooth turf-tires help. They do also have a heavy-duty drivetrain.

Then you could argue that "things could get stuck" in between axles 2 and 3. I personally don't believe that to be very common at all (although I suppose it could happen) with the spacing that I have. But only testing will tell.
I think it's something that an avenger or frontier could run with 24" tires, although 22" tires might be required. Something I might try...who knows. If 22's were used, you'd lose 1.5" of ground clearance. Not a big deal at all in a machine like the Avenger or Mudd-ox if you have an aggressive track installed.

I"ll know very soon if the track-crossers movement and track-tension I'm using allows for the slipping to happen easily...I'll try to adust as necessary and share the results. The same kind of slipping is already required of axles 1 and 4 on other machines that install track tuners and all other tracks in general in regards to end-wrap tires slipping a bit to keep chains loaded properly. I personally think it will work well, but who knows? Like anything it could be a bust, and I'll splice them together to make a longer track.

You wouldn't believe how easily elevated-belt half-tracks turn even on tundra. It's almost like cheating.

[MAX IV Mark]

I have to admit you solution of making two half tracks removes my main complaint for using these type of tracks, but only for a 8x8 (still wouldn't choose them for a 6x6 personally). There are no tires that are trying to spin faster than the track with this set up, getting rid of the extra stress. But I don't think I like what you have done with the wide belt on the outside. You have by making the 45 degree cut and putting in a small hinge you have created a stress concentration on the belt around the hinge. when it goes around the tire you are trying to bend the whole belt by using only the corner. You have also created what I see as a "Chinese finger trap" if you do any woods driving. If you drive too close to a fallen log or similar obstacle, it will pop into the inside the belt area and lock you in. I suggest you carry a hand saw as standard equipment.

[Buzz]

thanks for the input Mark. I agree anyone would be crazy not to carry a hand saw in the woods. We'll see how the hinge works with excess belting sticking out. I haven't had any problems yet with similar set ups, but this outer belt is 8" wide. Typically, I've thrown on an extra link of hinge. I was hoping to prevent having a rigid, non-bendable point in the track where the belting would not be able to bend up as I frequently squish between trees. The angled cut does a couple things though. It makes it easier to get to the hinge pin, and when the belt-end (where it joins) runs up against a tree, the angled belt eliminates most of the stress at that point in the belt. Allows for the belting to start its "folding up" easily. Almost instantly you're a several inches away from the hinge where the stress is not an issue.
But, you make a really good point. If need be, I'll just throw a piece of overlap belting for extra strength and keep the ability to fold-up with no 90* edge present.

[Buzz]

no way to eliminate the tuners on a 6x6 though. Unless you tracked 2, and then wrapped a single. Oh well, it still comes down to clearance between axles though.
I'm going to try wrapping a quad with a wide-version (like a glorified paddle tire chain) just to see how effective a single tire wrapped like this could be. Easy and effective on the rear anyway assuming you could take it in/out of 4wd.

[mightymaxIV]

Here is the main question I have Buzz, the full track designs swims. Maybe not great, but they do swim. My question is: Will the half track design kill or help the swim speed. That is a question that can only be answered in a test run and I hope that you will inform forum members so we will know if this is a good or bad option in regards to swimming. I do see a lot of advantages and disadvantages so we will have to see.

Buzz I saw Mud Bugs Mudd Ox equipped with Adair tracks at River Run ATV park. The machine was not a great swimmer because of the weight, but it did swim in calm waters, so I have a little real life experience for comparison purposes.