Ya those are Argo rubber Tracks, call Buzz he will square you away on installation, depending on what you are going to do with them you might want to consider another type of track. Buzz is an expert in tracks and track types, let him square you away on what you need and what will work best for you.
Once again, make sure your bearings are in good shape before you install those tracks.
Thanks! I did jack it up and did the wiggle test, they are all tight.
No worries, I can get you squared away, I have lots of scrap rubber and have had to do this repair to factory rubber tracks. I have a pair of 20” wide buldoc rubber tracks outside the shop that had the hinges torn out as well (repaired). I sent you a pm. Need to make sure all tensioners are released before checking axle bearings as well.
I now understand the difference between rubber and plastic tracks, thanks.
It looks like the hinge part is pulling away from the track, do they make repair kits for it?
looks like someone did not put all the bolts in, loosen up your bolts and slide things back together then put bolts in every hole and tighten them, the previously unused holes and tension should keep it together fine.
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My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Figured I would replace the front chains, since the inspection sheet said they needed to be replaced and they had lots of play and I have some new chain. Well what a pain! first the chain is coated with preservative and doesn't want to bed much, so I pushed out the pins and for the right count and cleaned them some, then went to install them. I started with the front left, which was a pain and now the right front is even worse! I did manage to get the link started and will finish it tomorrow. Not a job for a big man, trying to bend around and reach.....I know what I'll be doing tomorrow, after work! The more experience the better, right!
Yup, can be difficult especially the front chains and bearings. I’ve been using the chain joining tool lately. Helps .
Check the groves in these double sprockets for hard buildup of crud. Too much buildup may cause the chain to ride higher on the teeth than it ought.
I figured the tracks were making this harder than it should be, but with one hand guiding the chain I could use the other had to turn the track and rotate the chain around the gears, then I ended up putting a piece of cardboard across under the two ends of the chain and used a needle nose vice grip with the tips ground, to fit the links and pull and hold them in place, still not easy!
When you jack these Argo's up, is one place better to position the jack and blocks, than another?
I place the blocks under the body beyond the curve on the front and back slope of the body in a flat position. At these points it stays stable as I'm getting in and out.
I am 6'4" so I know what you mean by being a difficult thing to get to the front chains, would be better off hiring a contortionist to do the work.
The vice grips are a good tool. I also use plastic ties to get things lined up roughly, then cut the ties off when done. I have a spring compression tool (made for compressing coil springs on struts) that I have modified to use for my single chains, it works great for them but have not tried it on a double chain yet. Prior to that I used a cheap channel lock tool and welded bolts to one side of the jaws, then just turned the adjuster to tighten enough to draw the chains together to install the master link. Both tools worked very well and made the process much easier.
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